Newbie question about dirtier than usual oil.

[TL4315]

I've been reading for years and just joined today because of a surprise during oil drain this morning.
I drive a 2001 F-250 5.4l with 215k miles. I run Mobil 1 5w40 with Motorcraft filters. I do oil and filter changes faithfully every 3,000 miles. My typical driving during oci consists of local city driving mixed with semi-local highway @ about 2,150 rpm, in South Florida. During my last oci I drove 2,000 miles on highway virtually non-stop at about 2,750 rpm.
Typically, when I drain I usually see the stream of used oil looks virtually clear and reddish in color. This morning's oil drain was black as night. I usually feel that I'm probably changing oil more frequent than I need to. Was 3,000 miles too long to go under my driving circumstances during this last oci? What does this indicate?
Thanks in advance, Ted

 

[TL4315]

I have a filter cutter and I prefer full synthetic media, so I run the Fram Endurance from Walmart now. I ran one for 3 consecutive 5K OCIs on my wife's Outlander and then cut it open, looked like new and good for continued service.

The Motorcraft filters are good if you are servicing a sludger as they have a thread end bypass and will not wash sludge stuck in the pleats back into the engine if they go into bypass. But otherwise with the doubling of prices on the Motorcraft filters at Walmart, I will not be using them anymore.

I had always assumed my engine was clean based on my drains looking pretty translucent and reddish, for used oil. Certainly looked nothing like my oil changes in the 1980s. Today's oil drain looked like I time traveled back to 1985 and drained my 390, but no lumps or shiny stuff.

 

[atikovi]

I always use Motorcraft filters.

Same here for Ford products. Good filters at a low price and conveniently available from numerous outlets. You will soon learn there are a few people here that have nothing but hate for them, though.

 

[Revving2Redline]

17k is a pretty good run for any air filter. I usually swap every other year, regardless of mileage. The Motorcraft FA1632 is ~$14 on RA.

As the saying goes, the best oil filter is your air filter.

17k? Had the same one on for over 100k without a cleaning of course it's dry flow

 

[TL4315]

UPDATE: My new Motorcraft air filter arrived yesterday. My old filter @ 17k miles was dirty as hell. Almost no sunlight would shine through it. Haynes says to replace every 30k; I will change every 15k from now on.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

UPDATE: My new Motorcraft air filter arrived yesterday. My old filter @ 17k miles was dirty as hell. Almost no sunlight would shine through it. Haynes says to replace every 30k; I will change every 15k from now on.

Make sure the filter cover is sealed properly.

 

[TL4315]

Make sure the filter cover is sealed properly.

I did catch myself once not sealing at the bottom side. That seems to be an easy mistake to make on this design.

 

[kschachn]

Make sure the filter cover is sealed properly.

How would that affect the dirtiness of the filter? Is there some sort of pre-filter?

 

[Lawnman23]

How would that affect the dirtiness of the filter? Is there some sort of pre-filter?

It wouldn't, but it would allow unfiltered air to suck past the air filter into the intake tract.

 

[TL4315]

How would that affect the dirtiness of the filter? Is there some sort of pre-filter?

No pre-filter, but the leak would bypass the filter. Theoretically, my filter would last longer but my engine would suck dirt.

 

[kschachn]

No pre-filter, but the leak would bypass the filter. Theoretically, my filter would last longer but my engine would suck dirt.

Ah and result in a cleaner filter.

 

[Lawnman23]

Ah and result in a cleaner filter.

Your point being?

 

[TL4315]

Your point being?

I think there may not have been a point but not sure.

 

[kschachn]

Your point being?

No just trying to understand @Triple_Se7en comment which was made in response to a dirty filter. I wasn’t sure how those two were connected.

 

[Lawnman23]

No just trying to understand @Triple_Se7en comment which was made in response to a dirty filter. I wasn’t sure how those two were connected.

Ahh, yes. Good seal with new filter is important so engine is pulling filtered air, not bypassing and pulling unfiltered air via a leak/bad seal on the air box. Can lead to dirty oil and worn cylinders amongst other issues.

Clean air good, dirty air bad

 

[Lawnman23]

Granted, a good seal is only/more important to the flat plate style filters. Ones with a cylindrical shape that seals over the intake tube not as much a concern with the air box cover that goes around it.

 

[TL4315]

Granted, a good seal is only/more important to the flat plate style filters. Ones with a cylindrical shape that seals over the intake tube not as much a concern with the air box cover that goes around it.

On mine, it's easy to think you have it completely sealed while it's actually not on the bottom. You really have to know to look for it.

 

[TL4315]

No just trying to understand @Triple_Se7en comment which was made in response to a dirty filter. I wasn’t sure how those two were connected.

Me neither.

 

[Al]

In my experience it means your rings are worn

 

[TL4315]

In my experience it means your rings are worn

That thought did cross my mind. Higher than usual rpms sustained for 2,000 miles during this oci, I should expect more blow-by I think.

 

[TL4315]

That thought did cross my mind. Higher than usual rpms sustained for 2,000 miles during this oci, I should expect more blow-by I think.

But then, even new engines experience blow-by. I'll see what it looks like after this oci is drained.