Newbie question about dirtier than usual oil.

[TL4315]

I've been reading for years and just joined today because of a surprise during oil drain this morning.
I drive a 2001 F-250 5.4l with 215k miles. I run Mobil 1 5w40 with Motorcraft filters. I do oil and filter changes faithfully every 3,000 miles. My typical driving during oci consists of local city driving mixed with semi-local highway @ about 2,150 rpm, in South Florida. During my last oci I drove 2,000 miles on highway virtually non-stop at about 2,750 rpm.
Typically, when I drain I usually see the stream of used oil looks virtually clear and reddish in color. This morning's oil drain was black as night. I usually feel that I'm probably changing oil more frequent than I need to. Was 3,000 miles too long to go under my driving circumstances during this last oci? What does this indicate?
Thanks in advance, Ted

 

[TL4315]

Have you checked the PCV Hose?

I did not think of that. Should've been the first thing I thought of. I will check it today. Thank you.

 

[TL4315]

Have you checked the PCV Hose?

Wouldn't I notice my truck running or idling like crap if pcv hose was leaking?

 

[Brian123]

I did not think of that. Should've been the first thing I thought of. I will check it today. Thank you.

You are Welcome, we are here to help you out.

Are you the original Owner of this vehicle?

 

[Lawnman23]

Wouldn't I notice my truck running or idling like crap if pcv hose was leaking?

If its actually leaking then yes, its a unmetered vacuum leak. Generally its the valve itself that's gummed up and not providing adequate flow throw it. Its dirt cheap and work replacing regardless.

 

[TL4315]

You are Welcome, we are here to help you out.

Are you the original Owner of this vehicle?

I am not original owner. I bought 2.5 years ago with 180k miles. I have done all the maintenence in Haynes manual since buying it, except my diffential fluid (I've bought it but been procrastinating on that one for some reason).

 

[TL4315]

If its actually leaking then yes, its a unmetered vacuum leak. Generally its the valve itself that's gummed up and not providing adequate flow throw it. Its dirt cheap and work replacing regardless.

I did check pcv and it does rattle freely.

 

[TL4315]

I did check pcv and it does rattle freely.

I did just change the pvc 17k ago.

 

[Lawnman23]

Lots of good suggestions and thoughts so far but not to derail from your initial question about the blacker than usual oil. It seems like the engine is healthy relative to its age and you are maintaining it well.

At this point it seems that a fresh air filter and another OCI are the next steps. First things first, don't want to rabbit trail too far yet. A High Mileage(HM) oil would be a good step next time due to its age. Will help soften/rejuvenate oil seals and keep them doing what they do.

There are a TON of threads to search on about appropriate oils for this engine, prepare some time to deep dive into BITOG

 

[TL4315]

Lots of good suggestions and thoughts so far but not to derail from your initial question about the blacker than usual oil. It seems like the engine is healthy relative to its age and you are maintaining it well.

At this point it seems that a fresh air filter and another OCI are the next steps. First things first, don't want to rabbit trail too far yet. A High Mileage(HM) oil would be a good step next time due to its age. Will help soften/rejuvenate oil seals and keep them doing what they do.

There are a TON of threads to search on about appropriate oils for this engine, prepare some time to deep dive into BITOG

I will change air filter today. I can't find a HM oil in 5w40. Do you know of one?

 

[BAJA_05]

If you like Mobil 1 -- you might try there Mobil 1 High Mileage 5W30 or to step it up for acouple bucks more they have Mobil 1 EP High Mileage 5W30. Both are darn good motor oils. Cheapest place to purchase would be Walmart.

 

[TL4315]

If you like Mobil 1 -- you might try there Mobil 1 High Mileage 5W30 or to step it up for acouple bucks more they have Mobil 1 EP High Mileage 5W30. Both are darn good motor oils.

I used to run the m1 hm 5w30 but when I wanted to switch to 5w40 I couldn't find HM in 5w40. Do you know of one that is synthetic?

 

[BAJA_05]

I used to run the m1 hm 5w30 but when I wanted to switch to 5w40 I couldn't find HM in 5w40. Do you know of one that is synthetic?

I personally know none off the top of my head. Others might chime in if available. Mobil 1 0W40 is a very good cleaning oil also. Would not hurt for you to revert back to a 5W30 HM oil though. Again, cheapest place to purchase your oil is Walmart if you are not already.

 

[Lawnman23]

I will change air filter today. I can't find a HM oil in 5w40. Do you know of one?

5w-40 HM AFAIK is not a thing, need to step to a 10w-40 for a 40 weight.

That being said, given your location/climate, a 10w is not a issue. M1 has their flavor, Castrol Edge has theirs, both full synthetics.

I run Castrol GTX HM 10w-40 in my '98 K1500 350 in Minnesota...even in winter...starts the same as a 5w...

 

[Lawnman23]

I personally know none off the top of my head. Others might chime in if available. Mobil 1 0W40 is a very good cleaning oil also. Would not hurt for you to revert back to a 5W30 HM oil though. Again, cheapest place to purchase your oil is Walmart if you are not already.

Switched my Outback over to M1 0w-40 earlier this spring, will probably go with that in my wife's Equinox later this fall. Great oil across the board, even being a non-HM in this case.

 

[BAJA_05]

Switched my Outback over to M1 0w-40 earlier this spring, will probably go with that in my wife's Equinox later this fall. Great oil across the board, even being a non-HM in this case.

Plan to eventually switch my Tundra in signature over to it here in the next year.

 

[Brons2]

To the OP: did you run a different oil filter this time? The difference in oil color between the OEM filter and a Fram Ultra was noticable on the dipstick for a GDI Hyundai that I used to own. The Fram Ultra took several thousand more miles to turn the oil black, of course on the Hyundai after 5K it was always black. But with the OEM filter it was black within a few weeks after changing the oil.

Also, a 5K interval on M1 will be fine for your 5.4 2V. That's what I do for my 5.4 3V and it comes out like you described yours usually coming out before this OCI, still reddish brown and looking like it didn't really need to be changed.

 

[TL4315]

To the OP: did you run a different oil filter this time? The difference in oil color between the OEM filter and a Fram Ultra was noticable on the dipstick for a GDI Hyundai that I used to own. The Fram Ultra took several thousand more miles to turn the oil black, of course on the Hyundai after 5K it was always black. But with the OEM filter it was black within a few weeks after changing the oil.

Also, a 5K interval on M1 will be fine for your 5.4 2V. That's what I do for my 5.4 3V and it comes out like you described yours usually coming out before this OCI, still reddish brown and looking like it didn't really need to be

 

[TL4315]

I always use Motorcraft filters.

 

[Brons2]

I always use Motorcraft filters.

I have a filter cutter and I prefer full synthetic media, so I run the Fram Endurance from Walmart now. I ran one for 3 consecutive 5K OCIs on my wife's Outlander and then cut it open, looked like new and good for continued service.

The Motorcraft filters are good if you are servicing a sludger as they have a thread end bypass and will not wash sludge stuck in the pleats back into the engine if they go into bypass. But otherwise with the doubling of prices on the Motorcraft filters at Walmart, I will not be using them anymore.

 

[atikovi]

Yes, I realize the OP's engine is not diesel. I was trying to paint a picture using an exaggerated example that you can't tell the health of an oil by the color.

Heat cycles, contamination, oxidation, additives. all can lead to color changes. It is impossible to tell the health of an oil by the color, an analysis needs to be done to come to any conclusions other than "The oil was darker, and may or may not have an increased contamination load".

I think I can judge when it's time to change the oil on a gas engine by looking at it. If it looks like coffee, it's time to change it. If it looks like gin, not necessary. Anything in between depends on the darkness and personal experience and judgement. If in doubt, use the money you would spend on an analysis for an oil change. No engine wore out faster from having more frequent oil changes.