New vehicle search for the matriarch

What's everyone's opinion on the new jeep compass? It has a conventional trans I believe and the 2.4 engine which is gdi or turbo. Does have the multi air brick but that's not to crazy scary.
 
I do not know what if any differences exist between the Compass M.A. 2.4 and the engine of the same displacement used in the Dart. Multi-air engines (at least in the Dart) have had their issues. With any decision your Mom makes, it may make sense for her to look at purchasing an extended maintenance contract.
 
What's everyone's opinion on the new jeep compass? It has a conventional trans I believe and the 2.4 engine which is gdi or turbo. Does have the multi air brick but that's not to crazy scary.
My opinion is no thx
 
The best vehicle for her will be the one she feels most comfortable in. Ease of entry, access to controls, visibility, and so on.
 
The only way a Rogue should be on anyone's list is if it can be obtained with a manual transmission (it can't). The risk of having to replace the CVT transmission at low miles makes it a "don't go there". I wouldn't touch one with the proverbial 10' pole.
I beat on my 2014 Rogue Sport. Manually up and down shifting and neutral down hills.

I did a fluid change when I saw it was mud on the DS at 20k Ran as new when I traded it at 70K.

If you are retired that's 10+ years of service life. Rogue Sport. Don't want the Samsung built Renault Rogue giant box of air.

But can't find them around here.

Wife ordered a new 2023 Crosstrek just had to wait a month, Paid sticker which was mid 20's before trade. 16K after trade . Her Trade value offer was insanely high.

I would suggest to drive an lower trim Equinox. The turbo 4 engine sounds GREAT. I think the value proposition is big here plus usd to have Rebates and can be in stock.

Rav4 is garbage.

 
I beat on my 2014 Rogue Sport. Manually up and down shifting and neutral down hills.

I did a fluid change when I saw it was mud on the DS at 20k Ran as new when I traded it at 70K.

If you are retired that's 10+ years of service life. Rogue Sport.
You could buy a Rogue with the plan to dump it before it fails. But 70k miles and 10 years isn't a long service life.

I don't think anyone should buy something that has an expected short service life with the idea they will be able to dump it before it fails. A retiree in particular might not be in a financial position to replace it, or just needs 2 more years out of it, or who knows what. And then they get the big bill to replace that transmission (typically +/- $5,000 at last count).

Why take the chance when there are better products?
 
Ouch CR-V

  • Honda has released pricing for the new 2023 CR-V, which is available in both hybrid and nonhybrid forms.
  • The EX is now the base trim, and it starts at $32,355—a whopping $4310 more than last year's LX.

The new model follows the trend of many other vehicles these days and eliminates the base trim level, meaning the point of entry is far higher than before. The 2023 CR-V EX starts at $32,355, which is $1800 more than last year's EX and a whopping $4310 more than last year's base LX.



Front-wheel drive and a turbocharged 1.5-liter inline-four are standard, with all-wheel drive a $1500 option. Among nonhybrid models, there's also a $35,005 EX-L trim with a bit more equipment including leather upholstery and a larger touchscreen.


The hybrid lineup starts with the $33,695 CR-V Sport, which introduces a front-wheel-drive hybrid model that wasn't available on the previous-generation CR-V. This means it achieves higher mpg ratings than before, with the EPA combined estimate rising from 38 mpg to 40 mpg. The 2023 CR-V Sport Touring, a fully loaded model with equipment including 19-inch wheels, an upgraded audio system also comes only as a hybrid. It starts at $39,845, or $800 more than last year's hybrid Touring model. The CR-V Sport Touring comes only with all-wheel drive and is rated at 37 mpg combined.
 
You could buy a Rogue with the plan to dump it before it fails. But 70k miles and 10 years isn't a long service life.

I don't think anyone should buy something that has an expected short service life with the idea they will be able to dump it before it fails. A retiree in particular might not be in a financial position to replace it, or just needs 2 more years out of it, or who knows what. And then they get the big bill to replace that transmission (typically +/- $5,000 at last count).

Why take the chance when there are better products?
It's all a roll of the dice if you get a keeper or a dud. After owning over 75 cars I have some data points.

Most have been problematic, unfortunately. I'm looking at 5% keepers 95% throwbacks.

If you have time to play game with Service Dept that could be improved to possibly 25% keepers after sorting.
Biggest issue I had with my Japanese built Nissan was that it chewed up rotors then the exhaust heat shield spot welds would pop and the thing would develop a loud buzz. Nissan Service wouldn't address it under the 3/36 warranty but a local custom muffler shop took care of it for me for 70 bucks.
 
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It's all a roll of the dice if you get a keeper or a dud. After owning over 75 cars I have some data points.

Most have been problematic, unfortunately. I'm looking at 5% keepers 95% throwbacks.

If you have time to play game with Service Dept that could be improved to possibly 25% keepers after sorting.
Biggest issue I had with my Japanese built Nissan was that it chewed up rotors then the exhaust heat shield spot welds would pop and the thing would develop a loud buzz. Nissan Service wouldn't address it under the 3/36 warranty but a local custom muffler shop took care of it for me for 70 bucks.
I guess I've been lucky. I've had a number of really good cars, most bought new - '81 Celica, '86 Volvo 740 Turbo, '00 Solara V6, '00 BMW 528i, '07 Honda Accord V6 6MT and so far, a '21 Tesla Model 3 SR+.

But my '65 Mercury Comet V8 only made it to 80,000 miles, and the biggest dud was my first new car, a '78 Ford Fiesta. The power train was fine but all the little stuff broke, and though it wasn't the car's fault, everywhere it went something got damaged - corners, ends, hood, etc.

My Volvo wasn't all that good either until the warranty ran out and I got it into the hands of a Volvo specialist. After that things stayed fixed and it settled down for another 15 years.

While there is a roll of the dice aspect, I think you can improve your odds of getting a good car by buying something with an average or better than average repair record. And avoiding vehicles with known trouble spots, especially expensive trouble spots.
 
my younger son just got a cpo 2021 vw tiguan s. sweetly simple but not a penalty box. may be worth a look-see. annual 10k mile dealer service is an easy benchmark.
 
What's everyone's opinion on the new jeep compass? It has a conventional trans I believe and the 2.4 engine which is gdi or turbo. Does have the multi air brick but that's not to crazy scary.
compass is ok new ones are alot nicer than older... but
9speed zf is a dog.
2.4L is port injected non turbo but an overbuilt overengineered turd randomly drinks oil dry at 50k miles.. and other random *** issues.
Peppy around town.

about 1000 threads with people saying "MY JEEP STALLS ITS A HUGE SAFETY HAZARD"
but it stalls because 0 oil pressure from low oil..

IMO extremely overpriced for what they are.
If you are shopping compass the cherokee is only slightly higher and you can get it with the 3.2 or 2.0turbo.

whatever you do dont buy used with the 2.4L unless you have a good warranty.
 
The best vehicle for her will be the one she feels most comfortable in. Ease of entry, access to controls, visibility, and so on.
Yeah, my Mom like her 2016 Forester, it still has functional windows she can see out of, an NA engine. CVT seems to be a non-issue in most subaru's now.
I prefer our Outback as its a bit more refined NVH wise, but probably my eye level in the Outback matches my Mom's in the Forester. The Outback can carry 5 adults as reasonably comfortably as well with the extra width in the back seat. For parking probably the slightly smaller footprint of the Forester is better.
The 2021 base Legacy I tried didn't impress me at all TBH, felt like some 90's Corolla DNA snuck in somehow(maybe subaru is copying the cheap interiors of toyota's now?), but the 2020 Ascent was quite nice! So hopefully the new Forester and Outback are more like the Ascent.
 
It's all a roll of the dice if you get a keeper or a dud. After owning over 75 cars I have some data points.

Most have been problematic, unfortunately. I'm looking at 5% keepers 95% throwbacks.
That sounds like owner issue 95% bad? :sneaky:
 
That sounds like owner issue 95% bad? :sneaky:
Yes it was me who didn't bolt the engine to the transmission on my ford F150 4.9.

It was me who destroyed a cam belt tensioner on a Fiesta on day 3.

It was me who put undersized crank journals into my 1.8L VW Fox,

It was me who didn't bolt the front of the body clip to the frame on my Ford Ranger,

My father used to say I was a magnet for junk - but not using those words.

So I spent my last 12 year in QC, but I had some bad junk slip through my net.

Guess you can't do much when the factory manager clandestinely builds stuff with a small team to no ones knowledge.

and then ships it.
 
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