New tool thread

Plastic drain plug for the composite engine sumps. Flat screwdriver works just fine and doesn’t deform or mar the plug.
Yeah I dunno, I used a SnapOn 3/8" x .060" straight blade and it was still iffy. If you kept the driver dead square and applied pressure so it couldn't cam out, it only slightly marred both the old and new plug.

If I was going to do a lot and didn't want to buy the specialty tool I'd probably take a wooden bench chisel and just sand back the cutting edge to effectively wind up with a piece of flat bar with a handle.

But yeah, by no means is the tool mandatory. Which begs the question: why not just do a narrower groove that better accepts a traditional screwdriver??
 
I poured waste oil today and trolled the clearance rack at one O'Reilly.

I found the IPA 9010 Q-tip assortment for $8.31 which is awesome because just the other night I was thinking I needed more of certain sizes. These are great for cleaning out fuel injector seats and a million other uses.

I also came across this Power Torque poly rivet gun kit for $20. It seemed like a good deal. I've never needed a poly rivet, but it's a tool I don't have and I've never met a tool I didn't have that I didn't "need" :D

I then went to my second O'Reilly hoping to find more Q-tips but instead found another poly rivet gun. Just like government spending, I figured why buy one when I could buy two for twice the price?
20250223_153930.webp


I then went down a rabbit hole learning about poly rivets. This guy has a good vid explaining it although seemingly 80% of the vid is talking about the amazing build quality of the Pittsburgh gun, which he says is identical to MAC -- I could believe this for sure but as I understand it he has not laid hands on the MAC


Ironically his biggest complaint about the Taiwanese Pittsburgh is a rivet at a pivot because he says the gun would otherwise be 100% rebuildable -- but I fail to see the logic in rebuilding a $15 tool.

The Power Torque is MIC but has a screw and nut where he complains of a rivet:
20250223_155820.webp


NOW it turns out ~$20 is just kinda going retail at many places -- although I have no doubt O'Reilly's previous regular price was far higher --so you probably don't need to rush to your O'Reilly.

The video guy does have a good point about plastic rivet quality, and being MIC I have no idea if these rivets are decent.
 
I poured waste oil today and trolled the clearance rack at one O'Reilly.

I found the IPA 9010 Q-tip assortment for $8.31 which is awesome because just the other night I was thinking I needed more of certain sizes. These are great for cleaning out fuel injector seats and a million other uses.

I also came across this Power Torque poly rivet gun kit for $20. It seemed like a good deal. I've never needed a poly rivet, but it's a tool I don't have and I've never met a tool I didn't have that I didn't "need" :D

I then went to my second O'Reilly hoping to find more Q-tips but instead found another poly rivet gun. Just like government spending, I figured why buy one when I could buy two for twice the price?View attachment 265064

I then went down a rabbit hole learning about poly rivets. This guy has a good vid explaining it although seemingly 80% of the vid is talking about the amazing build quality of the Pittsburgh gun, which he says is identical to MAC -- I could believe this for sure but as I understand it he has not laid hands on the MAC


Ironically his biggest complaint about the Taiwanese Pittsburgh is a rivet at a pivot because he says the gun would otherwise be 100% rebuildable -- but I fail to see the logic in rebuilding a $15 tool.

The Power Torque is MIC but has a screw and nut where he complains of a rivet:View attachment 265065

NOW it turns out ~$20 is just kinda going retail at many places -- although I have no doubt O'Reilly's previous regular price was far higher --so you probably don't need to rush to your O'Reilly.

The video guy does have a good point about plastic rivet quality, and being MIC I have no idea if these rivets are decent.

I bought the Pittsburgh because it seems to be about the same as all the others and it works well, zero complaints. I did buy and use these rivets for BMW fender and bumper cover moldings, they look and fit as good as OE.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVZM868?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1
 
$15 for everything at local pawn:
-four Matco swivel sockets in 3/8" dr in 12, 13, 15 and 18mm
-Thexton 451 parking brake coupler release
-MAC BRP2; I already have a couple of these but redundancy is good
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The sockets all have the Matco label and the blue clip rail is actually stamped Matco as well
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I bought a set of those some years ago, they have been great. IIRC I paid almost $40 for them with a case.
Yeah the font on these looks like the IPA, but the IPAs say "patented" and these do not. Plus the Chinese are really good at copying, so the same font means little.

There's a dozen copycats on Amazon; the really inexpensive sets don't specify diamond and I think they just have some sort of abrasive on them. Regardless there are mostly positive reviews even of the mystery abrasive models (shrug).

I chose one of the least expensive that still specified "diamond", but even then I'm sure there are grades of diamond abrasive. I know good wheels for sharpening carbide tooling are NOT cheap ;)
 
I'm currently soaking the above Channellock pliers in white vinegar for 24 hours, which, according to Youtube, is supposed to dissolve rust. If it works I'll post an "after" pic.
I have a huge pair also and it rusted fairly quickly after purchase. It still works for when I need brute force.
 
I'm currently soaking the above Channellock pliers in white vinegar for 24 hours, which, according to Youtube, is supposed to dissolve rust. If it works I'll post an "after" pic.
I "inherited" that same pair from the previous owner when we moved into our house. A drill with wire brush/wheel cleaned it right up, and a light coat of spray oil has kept it in pretty good shape ever since.
 
I "inherited" that same pair from the previous owner when we moved into our house. A drill with wire brush/wheel cleaned it right up, and a light coat of spray oil has kept it in pretty good shape ever since.
Whatever the result after soaking in vinegar, after scrubbing/rinsing/drying they'll get a light coat of oil and live in my toolbox in the garage, so they shouldn't rust anymore. Even if they do rust a little, they'll still probably last me a lifetime. I feel sorry for the guy that lost this pair, but it looks like they won't set him back more than around $20.
 
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Just saw this thread… all new tools and toolbox back in October! The Mititoyo mics were a pretty penny but I’ve ALWAYS wanted my own 0-12” set.

For the last 10 years I lived out of my 26” Kennedy top box only as my employer supplied everything. New employer supplies almost nothing lol
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