New tool thread

[spasm3]

New pressure washer, had a cheapie that I'm tired of fiddling with.

Triplex pump. Honda gx 200.

Magnetic dipstick installed before first start.

Came with 10w30 oil, gave it a squirt of rislone zddp. Will change it @ 1/2 hour run time.

 

[greenjp]

Not a new tool but a few pages ago I posted the Makita 12v CXT cordless circular saw I recently got. Been using it a lot lately and I tell you, it is a fantastic tool. It can cut through things up to 1" thick or so. Today I used it to cut down a piece of cabinet filler trim, made a perfect cut by hand with no tearing or chipping. I love this silly little thing almost as much as the impact driver that uses the same battery.

jeff

 

[AutoMechanic]

My Matco 4 inch long nose locking pliers finally came in. They were on back order. Not sure who makes these for Matco but they feel nice. Made in Taiwan. I think my pliers collection is most of the way complete and believe me I’ve used every pair of pliers I own for something and know a few jobs where these will do wonders. The next thing I will be upgrading will be my last pliers purchase for awhile and that’s my extra long bent and straight long nose ones. Currently have the Pittsburgh ones which are all bent up and hurt my hands to use because they flex so much. Probably will buy the Snap-on when I get the balance cleared so I’m not in debt anymore.

Also wanted to mention that since my last post about the chrome peeling on the Malco made Snap-on ones. The issue came back on another pair of them on Friday. I was taking out a rounded off drain plug and I look at the pliers afterwards and the chrome on the tip and sides was peeling. This was a different set from the 4 pairs of them that I own. Really disappointed by that. Guess chrome locking pliers are not a good idea. I’ll probably dig out my tried and true Irwin or Peterson USA ones from the home toolbox and take them to work. I hate having to do that but nothing worse than being cut or nicked by peeling chrome. I read on some other forums that the chrome peel is a common issue so I hope they can fix it and recall all of these pliers.

 

[Job]

View attachment 100936
My Matco 4 inch long nose locking pliers finally came in. They were on back order. Not sure who makes these for Matco but they feel nice. Made in Taiwan. I think my pliers collection is most of the way complete and believe me I’ve used every pair of pliers I own for something and know a few jobs where these will do wonders. The next thing I will be upgrading will be my last pliers purchase for awhile and that’s my extra long bent and straight long nose ones. Currently have the Pittsburgh ones which are all bent up and hurt my hands to use because they flex so much. Probably will buy the Snap-on when I get the balance cleared so I’m not in debt anymore.

Also wanted to mention that since my last post about the chrome peeling on the Malco made Snap-on ones. The issue came back on another pair of them on Friday. I was taking out a rounded off drain plug and I look at the pliers afterwards and the chrome on the tip and sides was peeling. This was a different set from the 4 pairs of them that I own. Really disappointed by that. Guess chrome locking pliers are not a good idea. I’ll probably dig out my tried and true Irwin or Peterson USA ones from the home toolbox and take them to work. I hate having to do that but nothing worse than being cut or nicked by peeling chrome. I read on some other forums that the chrome peel is a common issue so I hope they can fix it and recall all of these pliers.

Nice pliers. Maybe the shiny chrome on Snap On doesn’t work out as well as the pebbly finished. Good you can exchange. On Amazon there is a window of return and that’s it. Good to use the old ones that what they are for really.
10 in CH Hanson locking pliers $7.88 plus tax free shipping on Amazon. I get them tomorrow so will see if they are made in Taiwan or not. My excuse to buy is I can keep them in the car, though that’s not likely to happen. It’s a disease.
Ten mins later they are now $10.25.

 

[demarpaint]

@Trav strikes again. We've spoken about this ratchet before, it's one of his favorites. I saw it new on Ebay for $30 and grabbed it.
Williams S-52. I haven't used it yet, but I will once I finish up a few more projects around the house.

 

[Trav]

Yes it sure is a favorite.

 

[AutoMechanic]

Some Harbor Freight stuff. Had to get the extension warrantied then I just bought the rest of the set. They warrantied it with no problem at all. He did say though if i would not have had the piece that broke off he would not of been able to warranty it. Who knows if that’s true or just something he thinks. Glad they didn’t give me any pushback on it though. Also got the free light too.

 

[Astro14]

@Trav strikes again. We've spoken about this ratchet before, it's one of his favorites. I saw it new on Ebay for $30 and grabbed it.
Williams S-52. I haven't used it yet, but I will once I finish up a few more projects around the house.

View attachment 101009

I have one of those, too!

 

[dlundblad]

Not that I'm advocating going into debt to buy tools, But.....Why is going out & getting a $30,000-$50,000 dollar vehicle loan acceptable debt? But spending a fraction of that amount on tools isn't?

I say it depends on how long you’re going to keep the vehicle.

 

[Zee09]

View attachment 101036View attachment 101037
Some Harbor Freight stuff. Had to get the extension warrantied then I just bought the rest of the set. They warrantied it with no problem at all. He did say though if i would not have had the piece that broke off he would not of been able to warranty it. Who knows if that’s true or just something he thinks. Glad they didn’t give me any pushback on it though. Also got the free light too.

The rich get richer.

 

[Trav]

@Trav strikes again. We've spoken about this ratchet before, it's one of his favorites. I saw it new on Ebay for $30 and grabbed it.
Williams S-52. I haven't used it yet, but I will once I finish up a few more projects around the house.

View attachment 101009

These ratchets have a pretty cool history and is the last actual J.H. Williams designed ratchets produced today, it has been improved since Snap on owned the company, gone is the threaded nut to hold the mechanism which made them hard if not impossible to rebuild without damage if they got a little rust. Resist the temptation to buy an old original of ebay for any more than a collectable, replacement parts are impossible to find.
Make sure it is a "A" eg S52A not an S52

Page 3 and 4 have the ratchets.

J.H. Williams, The SuperCompany

An article on the J.H Williams Company and its tools.

alloy-artifacts.org

 

[demarpaint]

These ratchets have a pretty cool history and is the last actual J.H. Williams designed ratchets produced today, it has been improved since Snap on owned the company, gone is the threaded nut to hold the mechanism which made them hard if not impossible to rebuild without damage if they got a little rust. Resist the temptation to buy an old original of ebay for any more than a collectable, replacement parts are impossible to find.
Make sure it is a "A" eg S52A not an S52

Page 3 and 4 have the ratchets.

J.H. Williams, The SuperCompany

An article on the J.H Williams Company and its tools.

alloy-artifacts.org

Interesting! I have the S-52A. I'm not sure why I left the A out in my post. I bought it new from a reputable Ebay seller.

 

[odie]

FREE is good . Got it with the HOLT 2.3 gallon Manual Fluid Extractor . Eats up batteries . Very useful for power outages . Hung it on range hood while using stove at night .

 

[AutoMechanic]

Snap-on Thursday today. Warranty replacement locking pliers again. Chrome peeled on these too so had to warranty them. Second pair I’ve had the issue with. The Snap-on man said he is going to point this out and see if there is something they can do about it. He did say these are actually nickel plated and not chrome so perhaps the nickel is weaker than chrome would be. One pair of socks as that’s all he had. And a wireless test light everyone told me to get it because it’s supposed to be the greatest thing lol. My Mac test light is a pain because it requires both power and ground so since he had one of every test light on the truck I got this one. And then a 32oz dead blow.

 

[clinebarger]

And a wireless test light everyone told me to get it because it’s supposed to be the greatest thing lol. My Mac test light is a pain because it requires both power and ground so since he had one of every test light on the truck I got this one.

I still rely on old school Incandescent Test lights for a lot of things, Don't own a wireless test light or a LED test light for that matter. I like my Power Probe III a lot but it WILL give false readings at times. I can only imagine that a wireless test light is even more prone to mislead you.

 

[Timmastertech]

View attachment 101523
Snap-on Thursday today. Warranty replacement locking pliers again. Chrome peeled on these too so had to warranty them. Second pair I’ve had the issue with. The Snap-on man said he is going to point this out and see if there is something they can do about it. He did say these are actually nickel plated and not chrome so perhaps the nickel is weaker than chrome would be. One pair of socks as that’s all he had. And a wireless test light everyone told me to get it because it’s supposed to be the greatest thing lol. My Mac test light is a pain because it requires both power and ground so since he had one of every test light on the truck I got this one. And then a 32oz dead blow.

That test light is absolutely useless and will lead you down dark rabbit holes of misdiagnosis.

 

[D60]

View attachment 101523
Snap-on Thursday today. Warranty replacement locking pliers again. Chrome peeled on these too so had to warranty them. Second pair I’ve had the issue with. The Snap-on man said he is going to point this out and see if there is something they can do about it. He did say these are actually nickel plated and not chrome so perhaps the nickel is weaker than chrome would be. One pair of socks as that’s all he had. And a wireless test light everyone told me to get it because it’s supposed to be the greatest thing lol. My Mac test light is a pain because it requires both power and ground so since he had one of every test light on the truck I got this one. And then a 32oz dead blow.

I coulda sworn the Mac doesn't have to have power AND ground unless you want it to tell you if you've found a power (red light, right?) or a ground (green light?)

I thought you could just attach the ground like a standard test light and still find hots??

 

[AutoMechanic]

I coulda sworn the Mac doesn't have to have power AND ground unless you want it to tell you if you've found a power (red light, right?) or a ground (green light?)

I thought you could just attach the ground like a standard test light and still find hots??

I’m not sure. It didn’t come with instructions when I received it. It was bought on the truck. Guy didn’t explain it either. Nobody else I know has one so I don’t have anyone to ask. They all mostly have the cordless one and recommended that one so that’s the one I got. Maybe I’ll keep the Mac one at work still.

 

[AutoMechanic]

T

That test light is absolutely useless and will lead you down dark rabbit holes of misdiagnosis.

That’s not good to hear. Just about everyone there has one. Even the master techs recommended it. Guess I’ll keep the Mac one at work too in case. I didn’t hear a single complaint about it to be honest.

 

[Timmastertech]

T

That’s not good to hear. Just about everyone there has one. Even the master techs recommended it. Guess I’ll keep the Mac one at work too in case. I didn’t hear a single complaint about it to be honest.

The issue with that light is you are relying on your body as the ground reference and there is no current flowing which defeats the whole purpose of a test light. When we use a test light to test we are using the lamp to substitute for a load on the circuit and we need to size that lamp correctly to simulate the load. I have test lamps that range from 50 milliamps to 4 amps that I can use to load a circuit to make voltage drop measurements with a scope or meter.