New To Me Car

NICE vehicle. It’s just now broken in. Except for the cams, they have some evidence of use but no galling or scoring. Honda was building some of their best cars then. You also got it for a steal.

Having had family Hondas run over 350,000 miles, I wouldn’t be as concerned about trans temps. The aux cooler won’t hurt anything since you are keeping the rad cooler in the loop. Otoh, do consider that shift tuning and timing may be optimized for full operating temp. I highly recommend amsoil in these transmissions. We have several Hondas in the family and I usually drain/fill them over to amsoil, and even in that prior failure-prone year range we haven’t had a single unit give us trouble. Amsoil is a robust fluid.

The other thing I would highly recommend is a magnefine filter on the transmission. Some of the Honda 5 speeds have an internal filter, but idk which ones. Others just have a rock catcher (screen). Run the first magnefine for 30k and the other will likely last the life of the car.

If you decide you love the car, I’d swap to a less aggressive wheel-tire combo, because that’s a heavy wheel with minimal rubber and the cornering gains simply aren’t there - a 60 series profile is beautiful on these, plus the lighter unsprung weight and increased sidewall absorption.

I’ll bet you can eBay some oem leather seat covers and just swap them out for a really nice finish.

Then of course since this is a distance commuter, we gotta talk about head unit upgrades and tire choices!

Edit /PS - look at how Honda builds their timing changes, multiple (more than 2) longitudinal links per link, not just two. The recent GM and even Toyota (prius) pics I’ve seen here only had 2. Bravo Honda for overbuilding that.
 
Last edited:
Flushed transmission with 6 quarts of HPL Green ATF, added remote filter (Fram PH8A sized Carquest Premium), added oil-to-air cooler, and added a catch can. also changed the OEM external filter.

IMG_7686.jpeg


IMG_7687.jpeg


IMG_7688.jpeg


IMG_7689.jpg


IMG_7693.jpg
 
Last edited:
Great work so far and thanks for the continuous updates with pictures. Just my 2 cents. When ever I buy a used vehicle, I immediately run 2 bottles of Chevron Complete Fuel System cleaner in back to back tanks. You have some hours invested in your Honda and proud of you man!!!
 
Great work so far and thanks for the continuous updates with pictures. Just my 2 cents. When ever I buy a used vehicle, I immediately run 2 bottles of Chevron Complete Fuel System cleaner in back to back tanks. You have some hours invested in your Honda and proud of you man!!!
it got a double dose of chevron fuel system cleaner in the first tank and redline SI-1 in the second.
also transmission temperatures after roughly the same drive on a slightly warmer day.

IMG_0007.jpg
 
Last edited:
sound deadened all four doors and the trunk lid. will do the floor pan whenever i feel like pulling seats out.

also had to recreate the passenger most glove box mount with aluminum flat stock. the factory mount had broken off the dash. bent some flat stock and self tapered it in to the dash to replicate the mount
 
well, the car had a hard hesitation from 2k-2.5K rpm. i did a 24 hour Berrymans piston soak followed by a 30 minute at 2k rpm BG EPR flush.

here is the oil filter and the media is being wicked as we speak.

out/off: 4 quarts PUP 5w-30, 1 quart HPL EC30 and BG EPR with OG wire backed Fram Titanium FS7317

in/on: 4 quarts Valvoline R&P and 1 quart HPL EC30 with OG Wire backed Fram Titanium FS7317

 
no codes, replaced both VTC screens already.

here is a guys post who diagnosed similar issue with the hesitation:

" triple check the connector for the VTEC pressure switch for subtle signs of corrosion (white or green discoloration) that could be intermittently affecting the connection. Also, when you are monitoring the VTEC SOL and VTEC PRESS SW data watching them switch ON/OFF, they should flip with each other near instantaneous. If there is any delay in the VTEC PRESS SW switching (which can be seen easier on a graph mode) the VTEC oil pressure switch is going bad.

...
IMHO, if you find your wiring to be okay and your engine oil pressure to be okay, I personally would suspect that you have a bad aftermarket VTEC spool assembly (specifically the VTEC oil pressure switch included in them), just due to the high rate of reported failures "

ALSO.. Could be your throttle position sensor.
 
Last edited:
here is a guys post who diagnosed similar issue with the hesitation:

" triple check the connector for the VTEC pressure switch for subtle signs of corrosion (white or green discoloration) that could be intermittently affecting the connection. Also, when you are monitoring the VTEC SOL and VTEC PRESS SW data watching them switch ON/OFF, they should flip with each other near instantaneous. If there is any delay in the VTEC PRESS SW switching (which can be seen easier on a graph mode) the VTEC oil pressure switch is going bad.

...
IMHO, if you find your wiring to be okay and your engine oil pressure to be okay, I personally would suspect that you have a bad aftermarket VTEC spool assembly (specifically the VTEC oil pressure switch included in them), just due to the high rate of reported failures "

ALSO.. Could be your throttle position sensor.
wire did look good when i was back there. i did watch the data and they are switching together. i’m thinking about replacing it with a genuine honda unit as the other accord in my sig lost its OEM one at like 170k. what about the long “solenoid” that goes in on the passenger side of the motor?
 
what about the long “solenoid” that goes in on the passenger side of the motor?

I haven't seen anything on that but make sure to also check out your throttle position sensor. .. you know a ton more about this than me.. lol.. but I have seen this come up on the forums

Check the responses to these guys posts on how to test it :

https://www.driveaccord.net/threads/2004-accord-2-4l-electronic-issues-help.277154/

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda...-accord-throttle-position-sensor-tps-3232894/
 
I haven't seen anything on that but make sure to also check out your throttle position sensor. .. you know a ton more about this than me.. lol.. but I have seen this come up on the forums

Check the responses to these guys posts on how to test it :

https://www.driveaccord.net/threads/2004-accord-2-4l-electronic-issues-help.277154/

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda...-accord-throttle-position-sensor-tps-3232894/
i will test the TPS sensor tomorrow aswell as order a new VTC control block.
 
well, the car had a hard hesitation from 2k-2.5K rpm. i did a 24 hour Berrymans piston soak followed by a 30 minute at 2k rpm BG EPR flush.

here is the oil filter and the media is being wicked as we speak.

out/off: 4 quarts PUP 5w-30, 1 quart HPL EC30 and BG EPR with OG wire backed Fram Titanium FS7317

in/on: 4 quarts Valvoline R&P and 1 quart HPL EC30 with OG Wire backed Fram Titanium FS7317

updated the photos in the album with dried media pictures. this filter was loaded for only having a few hundred miles on it+BG EPR Flush.
 
smoking from extended idling has now cleared up, the Valvoline R&P+ HPL EC combo must be cleaning up piston rings. i have fuel injectors on the way for it and if that doesn’t clear up the hesitation i will order a vtec solenoid block.

did a drain and fill on the transmission with 3.5 quarts of HPL Green ATF. did 500 miles on the fill of mixed old DW1 and APL Green ATF. the color on the dipstick is now actually green and not a gray color.
 
well, the smoke has returned… i guess i’ll have to either yank the head or get really creative and try to do valve seals. drove to the lake house this evening and netted 24.42MPG with the cruise being set at 85 for most of the trip and the car so loaded that it was tickling the rear bump stops. wanted to run it as hard as i could with the Valvoline R&P+EC30 combo in sump and Redline SI-1 in the tank.
still has no power between 2k-2.5k rpm. it has used a little bit of oil and i’ll be topping off with HPL PCEO 5w-30.
 
Please tell me you did check and adjust as required the valves when you had that cover off?

Trany fluid needs to get hot enough to boil off condensation moisture. Trany fluid expands and contracts with temp change and drawa ambient air in to make up volume difference when it cools and contracts. Some of the moisture in that air condenses out as water and accumulates in the trany. If not removed it can rust parts and delaminate clutch material by dissolving glue. That causes trany failure. This is why it is important to have trany fluid get hot enough to boil off moisture once in a while.
 
well, the smoke has returned… i guess i’ll have to either yank the head or get really creative and try to do valve seals. drove to the lake house this evening and netted 24.42MPG with the cruise being set at 85 for most of the trip and the car so loaded that it was tickling the rear bump stops. wanted to run it as hard as i could with the Valvoline R&P+EC30 combo in sump and Redline SI-1 in the tank.
still has no power between 2k-2.5k rpm. it has used a little bit of oil and i’ll be topping off with HPL PCEO 5w-30.
Lack of power could mean intake valves are too loose. And how old are the spark-plugs?

Don't forget to clean the air sensors. New high quality O2 sensors might also be a good idea.
 
Lack of power could mean intake valves are too loose. And how old are the spark-plugs?

Don't forget to clean the air sensors. New high quality O2 sensors might also be a good idea.
spark plugs are brand new Denso Iridium TT, Brand new Hitachi MAF, cleaned MAP. over 2500rpm the power comes in hot and heavy but you can be to the floor between 2k-2.5k and it won’t go anywhere
 
Back
Top