New to me 95 Yota T100 with nasty ATF fluid....?

[Crusader]

Just bought a Toyota T100 3.4 VA [the preferred 5RZ engine not the 3.0 RZ that I have in my 91 4runner] with auto tranny. 207,000 miles. 2nd owner basically neglected maintenance and lied about maintenance being performed on time except for oil changes. Only reason I bought the truck is engine compression test numbers showed solid for a truck with only 100k miles and this will make a much better tow capable truck for my lawn business needs. Used vehicle inspection also showed in decent shape except for old fluid in the ATF, differential, transfer and brakes. Brake fluid was green upon bleeding the system.

I drained out the ATF and it was the darkest and nastiest I have ever seen. Practically black...okay it was black. only smelled like ATF.

Drove it roughly 100 miles drained it last night again still pretty nasty and dark.

I’m considering buying some Auto-Rx but I’m wondering if there are any better products out there for cleaning? Going to keep changing out the fluid every 100+ miles or so until it begins to resemble ATF fluid upon draining before I will add Auto-Rx or other recommended cleaner. I have used Auto-Rx in the past to try to cure a rear main seal on my older Civic and it didn’t work.

Your input....?

 

[GearheadTool]

IMHO, you are onto something with this. ATF is one of the best cleaners, by itself. LubeGard Red is the best transmission additive.

If I were you, I would continue to put in the most INexpensive ATF until the color looks well. Change every 100 miles to every 500-1000. Then, when it starts to get its red/purple back.. go ahead and put a bottle of the A-RX in there. Then drain again, a final time, after 3000 miles.

 

[James_Tobiasson]

How many quarts did you drain? Remember the torque converter! Did you/can you drain it?
Jim


99 Nissan Patrol 4x4 diesel, soot Buster
01MDX Touring 99k miles

 

[Bandito440]

Is there a cooler line that would enable you to do a complete flush?

 

[jjcom]

If the transmission is still shifting ok, I don't think I would worry about adding anything right now. Just keep doing your drains every 100 miles or so until it cleans up. I'm guessing after 3-5 drains it'll look decent again. At that point, I'd probably leave it alone for awhile and service it again at the next oil change just to ensure a complete flush of the system.

Now if it's starting to shift strangely, I've had pretty good luck with Seafoam Trans Tune making a clunky transmission behave again.

 

[SuperDave456]

How much is the capacity and how much are you getting out each drain?

Typically Toyota says that 3 drain and fills are equal to 1 complete flush.

That being said, I would do the drain and fill every 100 miles like you are doing, but only 3 times.

Then I would just do drain and fills each Oil Change.
If the ATF is as gross as you say it is you might also want to look into a Magnefine in-line filter. I have put them on a few vehicles and I've never had an issue. Although it might be redundant with all the drain and fills you are doing, it is just an idea.

Also, I would also add a bottle of Lubegard Red when you start doing the longer drain and fill intervals.

1995 is long before car companies started using carbon fiber parts in their transmissions. Ive asked around and many fords and chevy's with CVT's have black ATF very soon due to these parts.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

IIRC, those are the A340 transmission - the same internally as the AW-4 that the Cherokee used. Very reliable, easy capable of 300k.

In the Jeeps, they recommend DexIII - I like it because it's cheap.

A couple of drain and fills and you should be good. I would avoid the additives.

 

[RPMster]

I wouldn't put any additives in there. ATF by itself has strong cleaning properties. Best cleaning method, IMO, is multiple drain and fills. I'm with the crowd that says slow cleaning is the safest and most effective method. Based on the info you've provided, I'd follow a schedule similar to this:

- 1st drain/fill, run 100 to 200 miles then drain again
- 2nd drain/fill, run 500 to 1000 miles then drain again
- 3rd drain/fill, run 1000 to 2000 miles

If there's a serviceable filter, it would be a good idea to replace it after a couple drains. After running the 3rd fill 1000 to 2000 miles, if the fluid still looks less than new, then do a 4th drain/fill and you should be good to go at that point. Reason for going longer on subsequent fills is there will less to clean after each fill. Even if it starts getting dark after a couple hundred miles, you can keep running it longer and it will continue to clean slowly.

 

[Crusader]

Thanks cor all the input. Manual says upto 2.1 quarts total. From what I can tell no other way to drain.

Transmission functions perfectly except for locking and engagement into Park solidly ...? Had it roll back on me once in park and I'm not sure if that is a mechanical or sludge issue yet. Haven't even Googled it.

The transmission shifts normally and smoothly and I think i'll continue to drop the fluid every 100-300 miles before using any additives and just wait for a normal clearish red upon drain before anything else.

Purchased several Super Tech gallon bottles of Mec/Dex 3 however at this.rate if I can find it cheaper elsewhere say 5 gallons.

 

[cjcride]

Originally Posted By: Miller88
IIRC, those are the A340 transmission - the same internally as the AW-4 that the Cherokee used. Very reliable, easy capable of 300k.

In the Jeeps, they recommend DexIII - I like it because it's cheap.

A couple of drain and fills and you should be good. I would avoid the additives.
Good Advice.
Your next post is the Big 1000, Congrats.

 

[Smokey0066]

I neglected my 4runner tranny too but after multiple drain/fill cycles it has cleaned up pretty well. Has always shifted fine though. Be patient with it, i'm sure it'll clean up fine.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Originally Posted By: Crusader
Thanks cor all the input. Manual says upto 2.1 quarts total. From what I can tell no other way to drain.

Transmission functions perfectly except for locking and engagement into Park solidly ...? Had it roll back on me once in park and I'm not sure if that is a mechanical or sludge issue yet. Haven't even Googled it.

The transmission shifts normally and smoothly and I think i'll continue to drop the fluid every 100-300 miles before using any additives and just wait for a normal clearish red upon drain before anything else.

Purchased several Super Tech gallon bottles of Mec/Dex 3 however at this.rate if I can find it cheaper elsewhere say 5 gallons.


They are a somewhat rough shifting transmission, but that's how they last so long.

Friend of mine got a cherokee with 200k on it. The transmission fluid was sludge. We may have gone a bit overboard, but we just pulled off a cooler line, started it up and kept filling up the dipstick until we got red fluid coming out of the cooler line. Then dropped the pan and replaced the filter.

The transmission worked exactly as it did before the change (which was good).

We ended up throwing a transmission cooler on it - I'd recommend it for yours too. Jeep used a relatively low stall converter, but some of the Toyotas that used the transmission had a high stall converter which lead to burning fluid and overheating pretty quickly.

 

[Crusader]

I just got my owners manual off feebay and there is a transmission over temperature dash light that will come on. Sounds like a tranny cooler would be a wise move.

Hoping to get many hassle free miles out of it.

Truck will see much duty pulling single axle 6x12 enclosed trailer for my lawn biz. Trailer rarely gets above 2500# and most of the time is less than 2200#.

Will also put an airbag rear suspension assist on it as well even though handles loads well.

 

[meep]

great truck. if you have the aw4 then that's good news. it does have a screen filter and a removable pan. I'd drop the pan to eyeball the condition and clean out anything that has settled to the bottom. I don't expect it'd be THAT bad.

My AW4 from the 1993 grand chero with 200k+ miles on it did well with M1 ATF and Dex VI. It slapped into gear a little quicker with Dev VI.

The main weakness of the AW4 is that it can get HOT. May not be an issue, depending on the cooling capacity of the T100. what's the rear geared at? 4+ and I doubt you'd need much additional cooling.

I would avoid additives; think the 3 Drain/Fills is a best plan. This is a great trans to live with.

 

[supercity]

If the trans fluid is that bad I don't think draining and refilling is all that effective. They need to be flushed if you want clean looking fulid. I would never use any sort of additive, just flush AFT through it.

 

[wiswind]

Toyota Transmissions, in general, seem to be quite reliable.
I have used Auto-RX in several transmissions.....it is quite safe to use.
Follow the directions on the Auto-RX website.
I add the called for amount about 1500 to 2000 miles before I do a complete fluid exchange.

As it was mentioned that the internal filter is just a screen.......as is the one in my Sienna.
You might want to do what I did........along with a auxiliary transmission cooler.
I added a Magnefine filter to the transmission cooler line which flows fluid INTO the transmission.
The transmission fluid flows FROM the transmission TO the in-radiator cooler, then through the auxiliary cooler, then through the Magnefine filter.....and back into the transmission.
The Magnefine should be changed every 15K miles or once a year.
The nice thing about a Magnefine filter is that it has a big magnet that the fluid flows over (really catches a lot of fuzz) and the filter element filters down to a nominal particle size of about 35 mircons.....vs 70-ish microns for the BEST of the in-pan filters (80 to 100 is more typical), of course with just a screen......we are talking a Mac truck for particle size in comparison.

HOWEVER....before adding another cooler....make sure that there is not already one there.
In the case of my Sienna, the extra cooler would have been located inside the fender, in front of the driver's side front wheel.
Follow the cooler lines to determine your situation.

I do the "cooler line" type of fluid exchange to get almost all the fluid changed.
One other note.....check into what you need to do to change the differential fluid.

My owner's manual call for the tranny fluid to be a Dexron III fluid....and I use Redline D4.
I use the same fluid for the power steering, which my vehicle calls for Dexron III for also (although the factory power steering fluid did not have the red dye in it).

 

[Crusader]

Thanks for all the input.

I was doing some T100 tranny over temp searches and it was a bit unnerving to say the least what I read. Not going to loose sleep or worry about it much so I'll shoot for a slow and steady clean with more change outs. And possibly use some auto-rx near the end to slowly dissolve more goodies clinging in there. Drop the pan and strainer screen.

I think I'll sport for a AT temp gauge first. Truck will be mainly used for my lawn buisness pulling my 6x12 enclosed single axle trailer. I run smaller lighter mowers and equipment so trailer will never see gross weight much past 2400#. Most if not virtually all will be for business use. Short runs on the freeway, most miles will be in town and shorter trips between accounts. Enjoy the automatic, extra power/torque, cab space, better brakes and AC for a change.

Any issues with elevated temps...an ATF cooler will go on asap.

MPG empty has only been 15 mpg. 12 with trailer.

 

[meep]

Crusader,

I think the temp gauge is a good idea for regular towing. and sticking with a premium ATF that is more heat-tolerant will also be beneficial.... the heat itself doesn't kill the trans... heat degrades the fluid which over time damages the trans. Anything below 200 is just fine for regular intervals. Over 220, from what I've read on bitog, is where the life gets shortened. And as you said, I wouldn't worry to much about it. Just take your time with the work and enjoy the vehicle.

Only other thing I thought of my be to check valve gap on the engine. some of the 'yota 6's were prone to burning exh valves. By "prone" I mean, it had 100,000 miles on it and ran like a top but the first thing to go would be the valves.... not that it was a frequent occurrence. IDK much about them--- solid vs mech lifters, how they are gapped/tensioned, but it might be worth reading into.

M

 

[Crusader]

Well the prior owner claimed the timing belts was changed and that maintenance had been performed on time. Other than engine oil and oil filters.... none of that happened. His excuse was they were moving and the records were packed up.

I was able to pull limited maintenance records off the Toyota web site by entering the vin#

The good news is if the timing belt breaks.... the valves won't hit the pistons.

So yes a valve adjustment and belt swap plus water pump is planned for January. Hopefully it is on par time wise as the timing belts on my Honda
civics. The best MPG empty has been 15. Pulling my trailer mixed 12-13.

I paid for a compression test before the.purchase and the Toyota veteran said numbers were very solid for even a 100,000 mile 3.4. This truck has 207k now.

I'm debating what engine oil to switch over to now and possibly run Auto-Rx and a simple basic 5w30 oil or just put Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 or Mobil High Mileage 5w30 in and just let those oils clean it up on a shorter OCI and again choose not to fret or worry much about it. Both M1 HM and Penn Platinum claim to be engine cleaning champs....? Compared to a basic oil and Auto-Rx....? Don't know....?


My main concern is shocking the engine rear main seals or crank seal.

Going to chase down the crank case breather next.

 

[3311]

Originally Posted By: Crusader
I just got my owners manual off feebay and there is a transmission over temperature dash light that will come on. Sounds like a tranny cooler would be a wise move.

Hoping to get many hassle free miles out of it.

Truck will see much duty pulling single axle 6x12 enclosed trailer for my lawn biz. Trailer rarely gets above 2500# and most of the time is less than 2200#.

Will also put an airbag rear suspension assist on it as well even though handles loads well.


I agree on the no additives, additional cooler because you will be towing and fluid changes until it cleans up. I like Maxlife DexMerc. It's a full synthetic and not that much more coin, if any than any other non synthetic fluid.

Edit: Check out Timbren helper springs as opposed to any other spring/bag option, been there done that. We run them on our 2500hd and they are outstanding.