New to forum, looking for advice 2011 Camry OCI

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Hi,
I've been lurking awhile reading mainly. I bought my wife a 2011 Camry and Toyota has it on the free maintanence program for 2 years or whatever. I generally don't like anyone touching my cars but me (I'm a mechanic for a living) and I don't like waiting 10K between oil changes. The car takes 0W-20 Syn. factory fill. I took it in at 7500 and they wouldn't change it just a rotation and inspection. I checked the oil while fueling up a couple weeks ago and it's half a quart low now at around 7800 miles so I called back and they now say they will change it.
Anyway long story short I was thinking about getting a sample first and sending it in to see what it looks like. I'm not thrilled about the long interval so I'd like to see how good the oil is holding up. What do you guys think?
 
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It's not that long of an interval for a synthetic like Toyota 0w20. It's good stuff according to the VOAs
 
First off, go with your instincts, you are a mechanic. You know they are putting [censored] in there so if you plan on keeping this car til the body rots out...DO YOUR OWN CHANGES. Small change in the big picture. Don't run a UOA or the oil that long for the first couple of changes, flush it out. When you get past three 4k Changes do a UOA.
 
Originally Posted By: chubbs1
First off, go with your instincts, you are a mechanic.

Hmm, OK.

Originally Posted By: chubbs1
You know they are putting [censored] in there


That's a huge assumption you are making and is unsupported by any evidence.

Originally Posted By: chubbs1
flush it out.

Flush what out? There aren't any chunks. Where's the proof that slightly elevated wear metals are abrasive?
 
Toyota 0W20 is a very good syn oil, it can easily protect your engine with 10k OCI (Oil Change Interval). But if you do not sleep well with this long OCI you can change it out at 5k and 15k and let dealer do 10k and 20k OCI.
 
I'm going to need someone to explain the acronyms please.

Here's the thing about being a mechanic. I'm in the camp that changes oil more not less. To me it's cheap insurance but I have an open mind and if testing it proves that it's a waste then that works for me.
The problem I have with auto makers is they are extending out the oil changes to sell customers that they have a lower cost of ownership then the did in the past. They do it with transmission fluid, spark plugs, etc.. you get the idea.
I get that modern oil is good and spark plugs can last longer if they are platinum/iridium but I just don't trust it all the way just yet. I mean it's burning oil before it gets to the interval.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Toyota 0W20 is a very good syn oil, it can easily protect your engine with 10k OCI (Oil Change Interval). But if you do not sleep well with this long OCI you can change it out at 5k and 15k and let dealer do 10k and 20k OCI.


That was going to be my plan but the dealer says the maintenance program is like billing warranty claims. I have 4-5 "claims" for oil changes or whatever and they can bill them whenever I want but when they are gone they are gone. At this point I haven't decided but I'll either get them done earlier or what you suggested.
 
Well, I can tell you I have enough confidence in that oil that I'm using it for 10-12K in my Ford and I don't plan on doing a UOA. My engine is notoriously easy on oil and I do a fair bit of hwy miles, so that's obviously a factor as well.

I certainly understand not wanting someone else to touch your car, but if they're actually using the Toyota synthetic 0W20, I think I'd have them change it every 10K and just roll with it.
 
I would let Toyota do its service intervals at 10K ,for a few oil changes on the second or so get a uoa done to see how the motor is breaking in. These motors will break in no matter what the manual or salesman/service desk guy says. If you dont feel comfortable with that , then by all means change the oil and filter when you think it needs it you defiantly have the credentials.Just make sure that you keep a detailed record of receipts on all oil changes/work done by you during the warranty period so you have all your bases covered as far as your warranty is concerned.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: chubbs1
First off, go with your instincts, you are a mechanic.

Hmm, OK.

Originally Posted By: chubbs1
You know they are putting [censored] in there


That's a huge assumption you are making and is unsupported by any evidence.

Originally Posted By: chubbs1
flush it out.

Flush what out? There aren't any chunks. Where's the proof that slightly elevated wear metals are abrasive?


Do you have ANY proof they are using Toyota 0w20? I am just going with what Nissan, Honda do. They have their own oils and I know for a FACT they don't use them in my vehicles. Please correct me if you have evidence they are going to use Toyota 0W20. I am open to being "educated" by you.

Second If you would like to do 10K OCI's with a brand new engine that is great. I just look at the comments of BlackStone, Dyson, Polaris and when wear metals are high they usually make a note of it. I guess then, it is wrong for me to assume a bunch of Fe, Si, Cu etc. are a perfect part of a healthy engine. Isn't that why guys like Doug Hillary say UOA's are worthless w/o particle counts...because you can't see all the abrasives in the engine? You tell me, would you want high metal/silicon circulating in your engine? Go for it if you do.
 
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chubbs1> Are you talking to me or someone else?


Just for everyone's info the dealer said they will use the correct oil not bulk oil. Will they actually? Not sure. Would like to actually see them work on it though to make sure.

As for the analysis of the oil I'm not sure if it's a good idea before the first change. That oil is break in oil and should be loaded with "moly". Not sure if that will cause the results to be skewed. Interested in answers from you guys though.
 
Toyota=HARD on oil

I'd keep oil in there for no more than 7500 miles. Unless of course you can somehow get a sample to get tested.
 
Our 2011 Sienna came with 100k of oil changes. Right after we got it, Toyota switched to 10k OCI, so it basically cut the number of oil changes in half.

I changed just the oil at 5k and will let them change oil/filter at the 10k intervals. My wife drives a lot of 2-3mile hops, so that would qualify as severe service. I also have a hard time believing that the first oil change shouldn't be done early just because of the break-in.

The service receipt specifies 0W20, so I am going to believe them on that one. I am looking for a good source of Toyota 0W20 since I don't want to pay $6/qt, but this last time I just used PP 5W20 and still manage to sleep at night.
 
I would do what my friend does with his new VW. VW also has free oil changes every 10k miles. He lets the dealer do the 10k interval (10,20,30,40K miles) and he does the 5k interval at home (5,15,25,35k etc). This way he has the dealer receipt for the minimum changes needed as decided by Toyota (don't have to keep receipts for the ones you do), plus only paying for half of the oil changes.

You could use the Toyota 0w-20 if you want or any off the shelf 0w-20 that you can get on sale. Do the above procedure while you have the free changes; then when they stop you can extend the OCI to the level you are comfortable with. Hope this helps!
 
Gravygrabber, if this was my vehicle I would forgo the 20 weight oil and run a light 5w30 like Valvoline synthetic. It is close to a 20w and I would keep my OCI @ 3K or 3 months city, or 4K or 3 months for highway. Don't get caught up in this extended drain intervals mindset. Also oversize filters are the way to go for several reasons including lowering DP which will yield less parasitic pump drag and increase mpg. Purolator PL20195, PL30001 often fit Toyota applications.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/2170/oil-drain-interval-tan-tbn
 
Originally Posted By: gravygrabber
chubbs1> Are you talking to me or someone else?


Just for everyone's info the dealer said they will use the correct oil not bulk oil. Will they actually? Not sure. Would like to actually see them work on it though to make sure.

As for the analysis of the oil I'm not sure if it's a good idea before the first change. That oil is break in oil and should be loaded with "moly". Not sure if that will cause the results to be skewed. Interested in answers from you guys though.


Chubbs is replying to the Critic, not to you.

Many/most of us don't trust dealers all that much, myself included, so we sleep better if we do our own oil changes. That way, we absolutely know without a doubt what oil/filter is in our rigs and when it was changed.

I agree with wolfc above, that's probably what I would do.

Welcome to the forum
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: nthach
Toyota=HARD on oil

I'd keep oil in there for no more than 7500 miles. Unless of course you can somehow get a sample to get tested.

Just because the 5S-FE and 1MZ-FE had problems means nothing for the newer Toyota engines.
 
Originally Posted By: Radman
Gravygrabber, if this was my vehicle I would forgo the 20 weight oil and run a light 5w30 like Valvoline synthetic. It is close to a 20w and I would keep my OCI @ 3K or 3 months city, or 4K or 3 months for highway. Don't get caught up in this extended drain intervals mindset. Also oversize filters are the way to go for several reasons including lowering DP which will yield less parasitic pump drag and increase mpg. Purolator PL20195, PL30001 often fit Toyota applications.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/2170/oil-drain-interval-tan-tbn


?????

The 2AR-FE engine in the Camry has a cartridge type filter, no oversize filter is available to fit in the housing.

Why the 3k OCI with syn?? Many vehicles do just fine with 5k OCI's with conventional. 10k miles on the Toyota 0w-20 should be easy to do as the AR engines seem pretty easy on oil. What is wrong with extended OCI's? 10k is not really that extended in today's world. Many OLM systems go close to that with conventional/semi-syn oils.
 
gravygrabber, A friend who owns a Mercedes AMG is in exactly the same position that you're in. Manufacturer specifies 10K ocis and dealer provides those free of charge. He thinks that's too long. So he is doing exactly what HTSS suggests; letting the dealer change at 10K intervals, he changes at 5K in between. The big advantage to that approach over simply using the oil changes early is that you have concrete evidence that the maintenance was done according to Toyota's recommendation during the warranty period. I'd keep records of what you do in between so that if there is an issue, you have proof that you went above and beyond. If it were me, I'd buy Toytoa 0w20 by the case and some toyota filters and save the receipts to prove that you even used their stuff. Our local dealership has Toyota 0w20 for $5.50 per quart, a really good price for such a high quality oil. I don't doubt that the oil can go 10K, but it seems that more frequent changes will ease your mind. A 5K oci will provide a big margin of overkill.

My wife's 07 Camry called for 5K ocis so that's what I've done. It will go out of warranty in a couple of months, at which point I'll go to 7500 ocis using the same oil that Toyota recommends for your 11.
 
GravyGrabber, I wasn't talking to you, I was responding to a disagreement with "The Critic". I totally agree with HTSS and Teddyboy. Go ahead and do the 10K changes but change in between (5k) with your own oil. I would use any good 5w20...MotorCraft, Pennzoil conventional etc. You could leave the filter on the whole 10K if you want, it should hold up no problem (it's on toyota anyway if it fails). If you are a real stickler you could use Toyota 0w20, but it is really unnecessary and will probably save you some cash. Good Luck!

BTW: This is really the way to go, it keeps up the warranty and you change at good (5k) intervals. Your engine will last a long time.
 
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