New to forum, looking for advice 2011 Camry OCI

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Originally Posted By: chubbs1
Do you have ANY proof they are using Toyota 0w20? I am just going with what Nissan, Honda do. They have their own oils and I know for a FACT they don't use them in my vehicles. Please correct me if you have evidence they are going to use Toyota 0W20. I am open to being "educated" by you.


Nowhere in my response (or yours) did we say anything about a specific brand of oil. There was only a reference by you, trying to falsely lead the OP into believing that he should be certain that the dealer will be putting garbage into his engine.

The dealer is suppose to be using 0w-20 in this engine, as that is what they will be reimbursed for under the free maintenance plan for vehicles that require 0w-20. Of course, we do not know if it will be Toyota, Castrol, Pennzoil, Mobil, or perhaps another brand of 0w-20. It is completely uncalled for you to consider all Toyota dealerships to be scammers who will not be using the correct oil that they are being paid for. Regardless of which brand of 0w-20 the dealer uses, it is likely to be a synthetic product which is the correct type, grade and quality of oil approved for the OEM drain interval in this application.

Originally Posted By: chubbs1
Second If you would like to do 10K OCI's with a brand new engine that is great. I just look at the comments of BlackStone, Dyson, Polaris and when wear metals are high they usually make a note of it. I guess then, it is wrong for me to assume a bunch of Fe, Si, Cu etc. are a perfect part of a healthy engine. Isn't that why guys like Doug Hillary say UOA's are worthless w/o particle counts...because you can't see all the abrasives in the engine? You tell me, would you want high metal/silicon circulating in your engine? Go for it if you do.

Blackstone is not an accredited lab, even though this lab has a huge following on this site. Their comments are often unprofessional, downright silly and there have been numerous threads on this forum that have called to question their accuracy.

Dyson, while highly regarded by some of us original members, contracts his services to a 3rd party lab which promises to use more advanced analysis equipment. However, Dyson's track record has been questionable. He has previously recommended the use of additives that are of questionable value, and has recommended products and intervals that have not been proven by any large scale field testing. He always cites "proprietary data," but the last that I checked, he does not run a lab or any type of business that allows him to conduct large-scale testing of lubricants. If he is really the lubricant expert he claims he is, then he should be working at a major oil company.

The ppm of Fe, Cu, and Si are in very small amounts. Most of the harmful chunks are caught by the oil filter. There has not been any evidence that has proven slightly elevated (usually less than 200ppm, right?) levels of wear metals to be abrasive to a new engine. If an initial oil change is required, then the manufacturer will recommend/require it-- just like BMW does with their M-series engines.

Some manufacturers, such as Honda, actually recommend against an early oil change as their factory fill contains higher levels of anti-wear additive for additional wear protection during break-in. This additive may be part of the special factory fill, or may be from the assembly lube used during engine assembly, or both. Lastly, it is safe to assume that most engines on the road today never saw frequent oil changes during the beginning of their life, nor did they see an early initial oil change, and you cannot prove that those practices contributed to reduced engine life as we rarely hear about engines wearing out.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: chubbs1
Do you have ANY proof they are using Toyota 0w20? I am just going with what Nissan, Honda do. They have their own oils and I know for a FACT they don't use them in my vehicles. Please correct me if you have evidence they are going to use Toyota 0W20. I am open to being "educated" by you.


Nowhere in my response (or yours) did we say anything about a specific brand of oil. There was only a reference by you, trying to falsely lead the OP into believing that he should be certain that the dealer will be putting garbage into his engine.

The dealer is suppose to be using 0w-20 in this engine, as that is what they will be reimbursed for under the free maintenance plan for vehicles that require 0w-20. Of course, we do not know if it will be Toyota, Castrol, Pennzoil, Mobil, or perhaps another brand of 0w-20. It is completely uncalled for you to consider all Toyota dealerships to be scammers who will not be using the correct oil that they are being paid for. Regardless of which brand of 0w-20 the dealer uses, it is likely to be a synthetic product which is the correct type, grade and quality of oil approved for the OEM drain interval in this application.

Originally Posted By: chubbs1
Second If you would like to do 10K OCI's with a brand new engine that is great. I just look at the comments of BlackStone, Dyson, Polaris and when wear metals are high they usually make a note of it. I guess then, it is wrong for me to assume a bunch of Fe, Si, Cu etc. are a perfect part of a healthy engine. Isn't that why guys like Doug Hillary say UOA's are worthless w/o particle counts...because you can't see all the abrasives in the engine? You tell me, would you want high metal/silicon circulating in your engine? Go for it if you do.

Blackstone is not an accredited lab, even though this lab has a huge following on this site. Their comments are often unprofessional, downright silly and there have been numerous threads on this forum that have called to question their accuracy.

Dyson, while highly regarded by some of us original members, contracts his services to a 3rd party lab which promises to use more advanced analysis equipment. However, Dyson's track record has been questionable. He has previously recommended the use of additives that are of questionable value, and has recommended products and intervals that have not been proven by any large scale field testing. He always cites "proprietary data," but the last that I checked, he does not run a lab or any type of business that allows him to conduct large-scale testing of lubricants. If he is really the lubricant expert he claims he is, then he should be working at a major oil company.

The ppm of Fe, Cu, and Si are in very small amounts. Most of the harmful chunks are caught by the oil filter. There has not been any evidence that has proven slightly elevated (usually less than 200ppm, right?) levels of wear metals to be abrasive to a new engine. If an initial oil change is required, then the manufacturer will recommend/require it-- just like BMW does with their M-series engines.

Some manufacturers, such as Honda, actually recommend against an early oil change as their factory fill contains higher levels of anti-wear additive for additional wear protection during break-in. This additive may be part of the special factory fill, or may be from the assembly lube used during engine assembly, or both. Lastly, it is safe to assume that most engines on the road today never saw frequent oil changes during the beginning of their life, nor did they see an early initial oil change, and you cannot prove that those practices contributed to reduced engine life as we rarely hear about engines wearing out.



That's why I was asking about the oil change interval the first time. I worked for Honda over 12 yrs. as a dealer tech. The break in oil has a high moly content and they want you to keep it in to at least 7500 miles. There is a service bulletin about this I could post.

Still interested in thoughts about oil analysis on the new of an engine as a baseline.
I'm going to do the OC's in between the 10K just for piece of mind. I'll use the factory fill and OEM filters
 
Critic You have been on here long enough. I won't argue with you anymore BUT Honda and Nissan recommend 5w20 and 5w30 respectively, They don't even use those weights at the dealership, what makes you think the are going to use (0w20) for Toyota?? I would like to know if you have any proof they do. You amaze me...do you work for Toyota?
 
Chubbs1, it's very easy to find out if Toyota dealer(s) is using synthetic 0W20 for newer cars that spec 0W20 with 10k OCI, make a phone call to your local Toyota dealer, ask to talk to service manager to see what he/she says.

I think Critic is correct in saying that Toyota is paying for full synthetic 0W20 oil change for the first 2 years and dealer will do just that. If they don't use full synthetic 0W20 for newer cars that require 0W20, they can be sued and fined for fraud.
 
Originally Posted By: chubbs1
Critic You have been on here long enough. I won't argue with you anymore BUT Honda and Nissan recommend 5w20 and 5w30 respectively, They don't even use those weights at the dealership, what makes you think the are going to use (0w20) for Toyota?? I would like to know if you have any proof they do. You amaze me...do you work for Toyota?

I can't speak for the dealerships in your area, but all of my local Honda and Nissan dealers definitely use the recommended 0w-20, 5w-20 and 5w-30 grades where appropriate.

However, it is not unheard of for dealers to not use the correct lubricants. In those cases, if you've noticed, all of the complaints of incorrect oils being used were with customer pay services, not warranty work. When the manufacturer pays for work, dealers are much less likely to cheat because they can be held accountable for warranty fraud if they are found to be cheating. MrCritical goes into more detail about it here, as he works in warranty claims at a GM dealership:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...rue#Post2134679

Originally Posted By: wolfc70
Why the 3k OCI with syn?? Many vehicles do just fine with 5k OCI's with conventional. 10k miles on the Toyota 0w-20 should be easy to do as the AR engines seem pretty easy on oil. What is wrong with extended OCI's? 10k is not really that extended in today's world. Many OLM systems go close to that with conventional/semi-syn oils.

Welcome to Nissan land, where oil changes are required every 3 months or 3750 miles for most drivers. And we also sleep in fear every night that our timing chain tensioners might break or our engines will start consuming massive amounts of oil for no apparent reason.
 
Hi I bought my brand new 2006 toyota camry v6 in 2006. I use dino oil all the time. No problems with engine or other electrical problems. at 155,000 miles, I did timing belt, waterpump, drive belt, transmission oil, coolant, spark plug, thermostat, front seal camshaft seal..

My camry is now over 200,000 miles. I never had oil consumption problem. Dip stick is always on full mark..

now I am running 10,000 OCI. 5w30 castrol syntec.

I am sure your camry engine is still in breaking process. Just do normal oil change at 3,000 - 5,000 miles.

I recommend castrol for toyota engine. I wonder if castrol make 0w-20 ?

good luck with your camry.
 
yes you are right. Honda have special break in oil. I have 2010 honda pilot. I changed my oil according to the MM computer.

at 7,000 miles, My pilot was almost 1 quart low. I drive pilot during the winter. but everyone should monitor the engine oil level, tire pressure psi.
 
Take the factory changes at 10,000 mi.

Change it yourself at 5,000 miles.

I've been using dino and synthetic 5W-20 @ 5,000 mi. intervals in my 2010 Camry with no problems.

Over 35,000 mi. on it so far.

Nothing wrong with the Toyota 0W-20. The latest stuff is from Mobil.
 
Originally Posted By: SilverC6


Nothing wrong with the Toyota 0W-20. The latest stuff is from Mobil.
Are you saying the latest Toyota 0w20 is similar to M1 0w20 afe?
 
As the engine breaks in and the break in crud gets drained out with the oil the uoas will start to look better . I wouldn't waste the $$$$ on a uoa the first couple of oil changes , unless you want to see the wear metals drop. The interval will be fine with the proper rated and recommended type of oil. Myself I like an early first oil change but that is just me.
 
Originally Posted By: gravygrabber

The car takes 0W-20 Syn. factory fill.


Is that the only viscosity Toyota specifies for it?
 
Originally Posted By: sangyup81
Originally Posted By: nthach
Toyota=HARD on oil

I'd keep oil in there for no more than 7500 miles. Unless of course you can somehow get a sample to get tested.

Just because the 5S-FE and 1MZ-FE had problems means nothing for the newer Toyota engines.

*cough*Prius*cough*

Many UOAs of Prii indicate fuel dilution, which is due to the nature of the beast.
 
Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: sangyup81
Originally Posted By: nthach
Toyota=HARD on oil

I'd keep oil in there for no more than 7500 miles. Unless of course you can somehow get a sample to get tested.

Just because the 5S-FE and 1MZ-FE had problems means nothing for the newer Toyota engines.

*cough*Prius*cough*

Many UOAs of Prii indicate fuel dilution, which is due to the nature of the beast.

So now we're saying what goes on in a hybrid makes a regular camry engine hard on oil?
 
Originally Posted By: gravygrabber
Hi,
I've been lurking awhile reading mainly. I bought my wife a 2011 Camry and Toyota has it on the free maintanence program for 2 years or whatever. I generally don't like anyone touching my cars but me (I'm a mechanic for a living) and I don't like waiting 10K between oil changes. The car takes 0W-20 Syn. factory fill. I took it in at 7500 and they wouldn't change it just a rotation and inspection. I checked the oil while fueling up a couple weeks ago and it's half a quart low now at around 7800 miles so I called back and they now say they will change it.
Anyway long story short I was thinking about getting a sample first and sending it in to see what it looks like. I'm not thrilled about the long interval so I'd like to see how good the oil is holding up. What do you guys think?

I owned a 2009 Corolla, which I didn't like very much (mostly due to rather vague steering on center, which the Toyota fix of making the steering harder made it even worse) and sold. It was factory-fill with 0W-20 and I changed the oil myself every six months with Mobil 1 0W-20 and Toyota filter cartridge and drain gasket. (It was some stretch extending my arm and reaching that oil-cartridge cap under the car!) The oil consumption happened during the first 1,000 or 2,000 miles or so during break-in and it was about half quart, and it stopped consuming oil afterward. It's nothing to worry and entirely normal.

Contrary to what some say, you shouldn't change the first oil before the due date/mile because it would mess up your break-in. Also, as most say, drive gently during break-in and avoid excessive speeds, again, contrary to what some say.
 
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Originally Posted By: gravygrabber
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Toyota 0W20 is a very good syn oil, it can easily protect your engine with 10k OCI (Oil Change Interval). But if you do not sleep well with this long OCI you can change it out at 5k and 15k and let dealer do 10k and 20k OCI.


That was going to be my plan but the dealer says the maintenance program is like billing warranty claims. I have 4-5 "claims" for oil changes or whatever and they can bill them whenever I want but when they are gone they are gone. At this point I haven't decided but I'll either get them done earlier or what you suggested.


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2137988&#Post2137988

TBN 3.5 @ 2500mi. I hope Toromont is wrong. I don't think that oil will make it to 10K.
 
Since your car is under warranty I'd change the oil when the dealerships says it's OK. I love a good synthetic oil and you know it'll go further than conventional oil anyway so you shouldn't worry.

Durango
 
Originally Posted By: Durango
Since your car is under warranty I'd change the oil when the dealerships says it's OK. I love a good synthetic oil and you know it'll go further than conventional oil anyway so you shouldn't worry.

Durango

I should mention that when I sold my 2009 Corolla mentioned above to the Toyota dealer, no questions were asked about the oil changes, which I had done myself (five of them total, Mobil 1 0W-20 and Toyota filter cartridge). Although, the car only had 14,000 miles and was two and a half years old (hence five oil changes, one every six months), and it was still in showroom condition.
 
The funny part after all this bickering is that if you just went 10k with synthetic there would no problems.
 
Originally Posted By: infecto
The funny part after all this bickering is that if you just went 10k with synthetic there would no problems.

0W-20 is synthetic.

But there is the question if 0W-20 (synthetic) lasts as long as 5W-30 synthetic. GM went with 5W-30 for dexos1 in order to have long drain intervals.
 
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