New Tacoma V6 Break-in and LSPI

It's the timing. It's a tad too advanced.

LSPI is likely not going to occur in the Atkinson cycle mode with the delayed closing of the intake valve, unless the tune disables the simulated Atkinson cycle mode altogether
That’s what I’m thinking too, combined with the hot IAT’s. OTT does not disable this mode in the tune.
 
That’s what I’m thinking too, combined with the hot IAT’s. OTT does not disable this mode in the tune.
If this pinging started after the tune, I would uninstall the tune.

Pinging can destroy an engine. Bumping up the timing on a naturally aspirated engine usually doesn’t yield much HP, but it can tear up the pistons with pre-ignition.

Turbo tune is a different matter. Increased boost is generally low risk on an engine in decent shape.

No oil will make a difference for pinging caused by inappropriate spark timing.
 
Can we go back to the fuel choice? E20? Does the truck OM allow for E20?

Unless this is a flex fuel, you may be running it lean, which exacerbates any knocking tendency, even with added octane.
E20 is fine, not much more than this. Open loop actually runs on the rich side. Again, it’s more tip in knock under partial acceleration. Not under WOT.
 
If this pinging started after the tune, I would uninstall the tune.

Pinging can destroy an engine. Bumping up the timing on a naturally aspirated engine usually doesn’t yield much HP, but it can tear up the pistons with pre-ignition.

Turbo tune is a different matter. Increased boost is generally low risk on an engine in decent shape.

No oil will make a difference for pinging caused by inappropriate spark timing.

As mentioned, it’s very minor and at tip-in. Happens before and after the tune at light throttle not WOT.
 
Well, I’m assume it’s LSPI as it matches up with the definition from what I understand. Light throttle, low rpm, higher load. I’m watching the knock sensors via my OBD2 device / Toyota PID’s. This engine makes all its power at higher RPM for the most part. Tends not to happen if you are heavier on the throttle.
I call that lugging the engine. Burn 93 octane and put your foot in it.
 
I call that lugging the engine. Burn 93 octane and put your foot in it.
I’m actually running nearly 96 octane, but yes, it obviously rears its head at partial throttle. I was under the impression it may be oil droplets causing the pre-ignition but apparently not.
 

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I just finished my personal break-in procedure on my 23 Tacoma V6 3.5. I switched to Mobil 1 European Formula 5w-40 at 200 miles, since then I have done 2 additional extractions. I’m also a big fan of Liqui Moly’s Cera Tec and just treated the motor at 1200 miles. It definitely helped smooth out the idle, this platform is not known to have this smoothest idle. I’m also tuned and the timing has been pumped up, this probably affects what I’m seeing on the knock sensors. Running e20 mixed with 93 or about 95.5 octane.

I have noticed this engine tends to have a bit tip-in knock or LSPI at initial acceleration. It’s pretty minor but I’m wondering is switching to a GF6 or GF6A oil would help with this. Maybe I’m making an issue out of nothing as the knock is pretty minor but I love seeing it stay at near 0. From what I understand, M1 EF is a very good formulation but do you experts think there is a better one? From the UOA’s I’ve seen 40 weight hot seems to offer some of the best wear metal reduction I’ve seen over 0w-20.
No issue at all.

Mobil 1 European 5w40 meets API SN+ and SP therefore it passes the associated test that automakers care about with regards to LSPI.

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-fs-5w-40
 
E20 is fine, not much more than this. Open loop actually runs on the rich side. Again, it’s more tip in knock under partial acceleration. Not under WOT.
Who told you that E20 “is fine”?

Toyota says differently. This is your owners manual. Up to E15. DO NOT use any flex-fuel or gasoline that could contain more than 15% ethanol...

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You’re not going to fix this with oil selection. The problem isn’t in your oil.

You’ve got an engine for which some knocking is normal (also, in your owners manual).

Then you tuned it.

Then you run on something that Toyota tells you not to use.
 
Who told you that E20 “is fine”?

Toyota says differently. This is your owners manual. Up to E15. DO NOT use any flex-fuel or gasoline that could contain more than 15% ethanol...

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You’re not going to fix this with oil selection. The problem isn’t in your oil.

You’ve got an engine for which some knocking is normal (also, in your owners manual).

Then you tuned it.

Then you run on something that Toyota tells you not to use.
He is trying to blow up an engine that already has very high compression by making it even higher.
If this was the old 2GR then sure, go ahead, lotus boosts them to well over 400HP. This is not the old 2GR and it will blow up in a few thousand miles if he keeps going. Im willing to take side bets on this one.
 
Tuning a brand new truck is not the best idea.
Issue isn't really if tuning a new car is good or bad. I tune my honda's right from the dealer. But this isn't a K motor, nor is it a 2ar or a 1zz or a 2j or a b series. Its a very delicate, highly strung, half atkison cycle, efficiency focused revision of the 2GR which granted, is a strong motor...was a strong motor.

Edit, the ceratec probably didn't help. The reason this engine doesn't have a smooth idle, is because its part of the D4S system, its by design lol.
 
Tuning a brand new truck is not the best idea.
Especially in this case, it is not a performance vehicle by any means, and not intended to be. A tune will not turn a Tacoma into a Ferrari even if it increases power by 5% or "improves transmission shifting" or whatever reason people tune their newer vehicles. And let's face it, people only buy Tacomas over Colorados (for example) for their perceived reliability. The competition rides better, gets better MPG, and is nicer inside. But people pay the Toyota Tax for a Tacoma to get what has historically been one of the most reliable mid-size trucks on the road. And now OP ruined it by doing a tune and running the wrong fuel and now he wonders why it isn't running right!? Add in additives and completely different oil for no reason.
 
Especially in this case, it is not a performance vehicle by any means, and not intended to be. A tune will not turn a Tacoma into a Ferrari even if it increases power by 5% or "improves transmission shifting" or whatever reason people tune their newer vehicles. And let's face it, people only buy Tacomas over Colorados (for example) for their perceived reliability. The competition rides better, gets better MPG, and is nicer inside. But people pay the Toyota Tax for a Tacoma to get what has historically been one of the most reliable mid-size trucks on the road. And now OP ruined it by doing a tune and running the wrong fuel and now he wonders why it isn't running right!? Add in additives and completely different oil for no reason.
I would say its more reliable than the competition, but the FKS is less reliable than the FE from the previous gen tacoma. There are plenty of people whose engines overheated and threw a rod out the side of the block in the FKS and that is because it was designed to be "more efficient" by being lighter, cheaper, and all the other eco friendly things compared to the old school version of the 2GR. Heck, its miles worse than the old 1GR in terms of longevity.
 
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