New Subaru BRZ--going to the track

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I have a new BRZ and have an opportunity to take it to the track in a couple of weeks. It will have just over 1k miles by then which ends the "break-in" period. This is an engine that you have to run between 5-7.5k RPM's to get any power out of it so I'm wondering about the factory fill of 0w-20 oil at the track. I'm thinking about maybe changing the oil and using a mix of M1 0w-20 and 0w-40. Is this a good idea for a new engine or should I just leave the factory fill in. Thanks, Mike
 
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I love the BRZ, very cool car. You've prob already seen this: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3341806/Oil_for_Subaru_BRZ_for_daily_d In a very general way, using energy conserving 0W-20 or 0W-30 oils during track days is often not ideal due to very low viscosity at higher than typical temperatures. However, I don't know the characteristics of your car and engine. I can only make guesses. If I were to guess, I'd guess that it's not equipped with large, thermostatically controlled oil cooler systems that can keep oil temps around 180 degrees during full race conditions. I'd guess that oil temps will climb into the range where a higher viscosity will be necessary to maintain proper film strength. Just a quick note from that other thread: The original post said " On the track I am regularly seeing oil temps in the 125 C range and repeated hard accelerations has gotten me up to 135 C (all of this on cool to mild days) " With temps of 275f, a very robust oil is required. More importantly, a proper oil cooler seems to be necessary.
 
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A little thicker oil might be good in your stock, new engine. A track day might sheer down that 20 weight oil a little more than you might like. Most owners don't do track days. A little caution can't hurt.
 
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If you are going to track it without an oil cooler, and achieve a temp of 275f, something like M1's 0W-40 or other robust higher viscosity syn is going to be about right. I'd not mix the 20 and 40, though. I might even consider M1, 5W-40 TDT for those track days. Then switch back to the 0W after.
 
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If it was my car I would dump the oil at 1K and fill with M1 0W-40 (and I'm a die hard 0W-20 fan, but not at 275F).
 
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Stick with TGMO 0W-20 but definitely install an oil cooler.accomplishment You simply do not want high oil temp's that will trigger the ECU power modifications. Running a heavier oil accomplishes nothing.
 
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Originally Posted By: bvance554
I wouldn't take anything to the track with 0w-anything.
Do you even know what 0W means? I don't think so. The most advanced leading edge race oils from Mobil, Shell etc are all 0W-XX oils.
 
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Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: bvance554
I wouldn't take anything to the track with 0w-anything.
Do you even know what 0W means? I don't think so. The most advanced leading edge race oils from Mobil, Shell etc are all 0W-XX oils.
I wouldn't take a new car to the track. (period)
 
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Is the 1000 mile break-in period out of the owner's manual? If so, I think it's OK to go. Caterham makes a good point to put an oil cooler on the car, but maybe you're hesitant to start modifying a car that's still in warranty? Does the owner's manual have a viscosity versus temperature chart? I think go up a grade to 5w30 in a major brand full synthetic such as M1 or PUP. Which track, by the way?
 
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bmrlvr

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Hallett Motor Racing Circuit--about 40 miles west of Tulsa The 1,000 mile break-in period is specified in the owner's manual, although I've heard that owner's manuals in other countries for the same car call for 1,000 km, which is only about 620 miles for their break-in period. You're right about not wanting to put in an oil cooler for warranty purposes. Besides, it's going to be the 16th of November and the ambient temperature is likely to be 50 degrees F. It should be ok but I think I'd feel better upgrading to a 5w30 or 0w40 oil for the day. Then I'll put the 0w-20 back in.
 
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OTC, I'd consider: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_ESP_Formula_5W-30.aspx# I might throw in some LM MoS2 for good measure. UOA at 500+ miles including the track day and go from there. If you add the MoS2, change a a tank or two before the track day to let it plate up thoroughly. Oil cooler would be best, and you could probably run about any 5w-20 or 5w-30 an be fine if the oil cooler is doing its job.
 

bmrlvr

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Originally Posted By: 05LGTLtd
OTC, I'd consider: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_ESP_Formula_5W-30.aspx# I might throw in some LM MoS2 for good measure. UOA at 500+ miles including the track day and go from there. If you add the MoS2, change a a tank or two before the track day to let it plate up thoroughly. Oil cooler would be best, and you could probably run about any 5w-20 or 5w-30 an be fine if the oil cooler is doing its job.
The Mobil1 ESP oil is pretty much the same thing I use for my VW/Audi TDI cars as it has the low ash content to protect the DPF on these cars. I think I use the Pennzoil Platinum Euro L, which also meets the VW 507 spec. So you think this would be better than the Mobil1 0-40?
 
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It's a bit thinner, maybe not enough to make much difference. But closer to your spec oil. It has a higher listed flash point than the 0w-40, and a good HTHS rating. Just another option. Conventional thinking is the closer the two numbers, the less shear potential. Maybe that's old school thinking, and doesn't apply to these specific oils. Being low ash, just keep the OCI on the short side to be safe.
 
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Drive at 8/10ths, shift 500 RPM before redline. Bringing the car home in one piece is your #1 priority. Don't be a hero, making payments on something rolled up in a little ball is no fun.
 
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Originally Posted By: bmrlvr
Hallett Motor Racing Circuit--about 40 miles west of Tulsa The 1,000 mile break-in period is specified in the owner's manual, although I've heard that owner's manuals in other countries for the same car call for 1,000 km, which is only about 620 miles for their break-in period. You're right about not wanting to put in an oil cooler for warranty purposes. Besides, it's going to be the 16th of November and the ambient temperature is likely to be 50 degrees F. It should be ok but I think I'd feel better upgrading to a 5w30 or 0w40 oil for the day. Then I'll put the 0w-20 back in.
The following couple of thread on tracking BRZ and FR-S may be of interest using 0W-20: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3209489/Re:_2013_BRZ_-_Two_UOAs_%28GC0w3#Post3209489 http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3151637/1 For the same reasons it's not necessary to run anything heavier that the spec' 5W-20 in Mustang GT when tracked, (the electronic safeties will kick in if the oil gets too hot), that also happens with the BRZ and FR-S. The excellent UOA sited above was with the Sustina 0W-20 in a FR-S with Florida track temp's of 275F IIRC. The same member mentioned that oil temp's are higher when 5W-30 grade oils have been used in tracked Toyota 86s vs 0W-20. If your anticipated ambient temp's won't get much over 50F I'd be surprised if you're oil temp's get much over 235F or so. Nevertheless, if you still feel the need to run something heavier I'd suggest just substituting a quart or two of M1 0W-40 in place of TGMO 0W-20 to make a heavier 0W-20 or light 0W-30. This is the only way to maximize the HTHSV without unduly raising your viscosity on start-up and during warm-up. In fact this blend is still lighter than all 5W-20s and OTC 0W-20s on start-up.
 
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Whatever you do- do not put on your facebook page that you took it to the track and do not put anything in a forum or on a web page with vidoes and pictures that will incriminate you on the off chance you blow something and try and get warranty work. I remember a few years back- I think Subaru rejectd warranty claims because they found proof that the people took their cars to the track or off road and blew engines and what not.
 
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Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
For the same reasons it's not necessary to run anything heavier that the spec' 5W-20 in Mustang GT when tracked,,,
Possibly a poor example choice, but in the new 5.0 Mustang, it specifically calls for 5W-50 oil in the "track pack" car. Which is the one you should purchase "IF" you plan on doing track days. The engine is NOT different in any way, than the normal GT, 5.0. Only the intended use. Also, locally at PBIR (used to be Moroso track) I'm a regular there as I live 3 miles from the track and there is literally nothing between the track and my house. It's a nearly universal issue with road race cars, thin oils and spun bearings.
 
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tdpark -Some dealers will just look at the tires, or other items, and deny a Powertrain warranty claim based on the fact that the car looks like it was subjected to abuse or track driving. I know dealers have pics from SoA on commonly abused items. As far as the owners manual goes:
Quote:
The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the viscosity characteristic of the oil when the oil is at high temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions.
OP - I believe you're on FT86club. Try to find the uoa on Motul 5W-30 300V by AZP Installs. He did a good job of shearing that oil during track conditions and 300V is a very stout oil. He also posted his oil temps. His car is pretty much a race car though (but no forced induction and stock internals) and he's also a NASA Northeast instructor, so his car gets a good thrashing at the track. It probably depends on what your track time is like. One track day is probably fine on the factory fill (and I think you've received feedback from others that have done this), but I would at least do a mix of M1 0W-20 (or TGMO 0W-20) and M1 0W-40. -Dennis
 
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