New flat tappet engine?

[porkchop01]

I am having a 1970 ford 390 beeing rebuilt back to new and need some advice on oil's. What should be used for break in and normal use? the engine will be stock with only a mild RV cam. Allso, the builder says they prefer 20w50 and they sell Brad Penn and Joe Gibbs oil there.Are these good choices? Any advice?

 

[MrBeachcomber]

Just based upon my experience with SCCA race engines and muscle car engine restorations, I prefer using a moly supplement with a non-detergent, dino racing oil for the initial 20 minute break-in. For the next 500 miles, I prefer a dino racing oil for the low ash content and the high ZDDP content. After 500 miles, I would use a synthetic oil in the weight range recommended by the builder. (After all, the builder set the clearances inside the engine.)

Both Brad Penn and Joe Gibbs are excellent oils; and I believe that both offer break-in lubes. (I know for a fact that Joe Gibbs does - it's good stuff!)

Good luck with the new engine.

 

[porkchop01]

how will synthetic oil act with the rope rear main seal?

 

[VR1]

Engine builder should break it in right but, I would use VR1 its way cheaper and will yield as good of results if not better. What does Joe Gibbs a football coach know about oil? lol. It might be good but, thats like Martha Stewart trying to sell you a sorround sound system what would she know about that lol?

 

[ac_tc]

Whywould a stock 390 have clearances for
a 20w- 50 oil after rebuild?
Just pour a 15w40 hdeo in it and run it for 2500 rpms
in 20 minutes. take a test drive to se that everything is ok and so....
Change oil to..hdeo and just enjoy your car.
Dont baby it! Its the worst thing a engine can be subjected to,
its better you run like you stole it. Avoid long full trottle periods, no top speed test.

 

[A_Harman]

Both Brad Penn and Joe Gibbs have break-in oils. Check out Joe Gibbs' website; it has a good explanation of the engine break-in system they have.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: VR1
Engine builder should break it in right but, I would use VR1 its way cheaper and will yield as good of results if not better. What does Joe Gibbs a football coach know about oil? lol. It might be good but, thats like Martha Stewart trying to sell you a sorround sound system what would she know about that lol?


Sweet, a new Valvoline advertising maven!

Where can I get me some of this incredible oil Jim?

"Well it's easy Bob, just drive down to your local Walmart and pick it up. Easy as pie"

AMAZING!!! Jim, simply amazing!

"And that's not all Bob, act now and we'll include a detailing pen, paper towel role (for checking that oil!) and this fancy fridge magnet.... a $400 value... all at no extra cost!"

That really IS amazing Jim!

 

[Trav]

Quote:
how will synthetic oil act with the rope rear main seal?


No problem, I ran it in a Buick 430 for a long time that used rope seals.
Rear rope seals are popcorn to replace, pan drop, rear main cap and use a Chinese finger. A couple of hours with no transmission pulling.

 

[Chris142]

I'd put 5w30 conventional in it and load the oil up with redline engine break in additive. Run the engine @ 2000 rpm for 30 minutes then drain the oil and change the filter.

From now on Go with 10w30 VR1 or 15w40.

 

[brandini]

Amsoil options for break in:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/brk.aspx

With high ZDDP for the cams:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/zrf.aspx

 

[660mag]

That BB wants 20w50. It's perfect. Listen to your builder.
I own two BB fords. A 390 in a 69 gt ranchero, and a 352 in a 67 f100. Builders have always told me 20w50 for both, though I built them myself.

 

[mechtech2]

I don't like their recommendation for 20-50.
They are building it wrong, or have bad advice. One of the two.

Use a break in additive, for sure. maybe overfill the crankcase by 1/2 qt.

I like Lubro Moly for daily use.

 

[TFB1]

Originally Posted By: VR1
Engine builder should break it in right but, I would use VR1 its way cheaper and will yield as good of results if not better. What does Joe Gibbs a football coach know about oil? lol. It might be good but, thats like Martha Stewart trying to sell you a sorround sound system what would she know about that lol?


Uhhh, he does own three NASCAR "Cup" teams, probably knows a "little" something...

If the engine is built to stock specs and not going to be subject to continuous Hot Rodding, I agree with the others that stated a 20W-50 is more than needed... A racing 10W-40 will be sufficient and then some...

 

[porkchop01]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
I don't like their recommendation for 20-50.
They are building it wrong, or have bad advice. One of the two.

Use a break in additive, for sure. maybe overfill the crankcase by 1/2 qt.

I like Lubro Moly for daily use.
These engine builders are a well known racing shop and build some of the best track engines around but I asked for a stock build for daily use and reliablility.

 

[Steve S]

Big blocks do well with 20w-50. Even though most of the posters know more about engines than the engine rebuilders that get to see their race engines for inspection and rebuild on a regular basis and their street rebuilds as necessary.

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: VR1
Engine builder should break it in right but, I would use VR1 its way cheaper and will yield as good of results if not better. What does Joe Gibbs a football coach know about oil? lol. It might be good but, thats like Martha Stewart trying to sell you a sorround sound system what would she know about that lol?


Uhhh, he does own three NASCAR "Cup" teams, probably knows a "little" something...


Yes, he does own the teams, but that does not necessarily mean that he, personally knows anything at all about oil, engines, or tech info.
(Jack Roush probably has forgotten more tech info than "Mr. Forced Prayer In The Locker Room" would ever be capable of learning/knowing!!!

)

Now, the people who work for him as race engineers, engine builders, techs, tribologists, chemical engineers/blenders, etc. are a different story altogether.

 

[porkchop01]

I emailed Castrol with questions about my new engine and this is what I got back from them. Sounds like a pretty good response to me, Might be a castrol user again in the very near future.


Thank you for contacting Castrol.

The new formula Syntec 20W-50 for classic cars is actually API SM. The statement "Recommended for Classic Cars" should be visible in the middle of the back label.

Note that the Zinc levels (actually the Sulfur and Phosphorus levels) in the API SM / ILSAC GF-4 viscosity grades are defined by a table of requirements but in basic terms 20W-50 is not held to the same requirements as the lower viscosity grades (5W-20, 0W-30, 5w30, 10w30); 20W-50 can be higher.
Current Syntec 20W-50 (for classic cars) is actually a modern premium quality API SM product that has been Zinc boosted to Zinc levels that are reminiscent of Zinc levels from historic API categories such as SG when flat tappet cams with high spring loads were common in the fleet. For reference, note that the API SM category has the most rigorous passenger car engine oil (PCO) test performance requirements in the history of the API PCO categories.
The level of Zinc in the new Syntec 20W-50 is a minimum of 1200 ppm, which will provide excellent anti-wear protection for the cam and lifters in a flat-tappet cam engine.

Castrol consumer Relations

 

[porkchop01]

Ok, What would be a good additive to use for the first break in run using an off the shelf sae30 oil? This will only be run for about an hour then dumped.

 

[A_Harman]

Redline Engine Oil Break-In Additive.

 

[660mag]

Originally Posted By: porkchop01
Ok, What would be a good additive to use for the first break in run using an off the shelf sae30 oil? This will only be run for about an hour then dumped.

If your builder is worth his salt, the assy lube they use would have already boosted the initial fill. Anything else added would imo be excessive. Sounds like you got the oil thing down. Now more importantly will be to focus on nailing the timing and fuel down so it wont take 30min of cranking to get that engine in an RPM sufficient to break in the cam. I would strongly recommend priming the oil pump through the distributor hole with a high speed drill until you see oil at the rockers. Only then should you hurry the valve covers on for the sea trial. good luck!