Show me proof that Toyota engines suffer from FUEL dilution. Countless UOAs go against your irrational fear of FUEL solution.These are not the only conditions that put car in "severe service" category. Short trips that result in oil dilution and etc. The tech simply stated that if you do not fall into "normal" driving conditions, 10K OCI might be too long.
Sorry overkill, the engineers designed the OLM, and we all know they have no idea what they are doingAll this talk about 5K vs 10K, doesn't the vehicle have an OLM? Ultimately, that should be calibrated to dictate what the OEM determined was a safe interval for the operating conditions using a lubricant with the appropriate specifications/approvals.
All this talk about 5K vs 10K, doesn't the vehicle have an OLM? Ultimately, that should be calibrated to dictate what the OEM determined was a safe interval for the operating conditions using a lubricant with the appropriate specifications/approvals.
In addition to the conditions you've mentioned, at various times and places I've read that Toyota considers cold weather driving, mountain driving, driving with a fully-loaded vehicle, driving with a rooftop carrier, and towing to be severe service, and recommends shorter OCIs under such conditions, and has, for some engines, at various times suggested a more robust, i.e., heavier oil.The tech is right, Toyota 10k oil change is for ideal driving conditions that mostly involve highway driving. A lot of people do short trips, prolonged idling in traffic, and engines are diluted with gas (thanks to GDI) and etc. If you fall into these (severe) driving conditions and you are DIY, just buy Kirkland at costco for $15 and change the oil (keep same filter) at 5k miles and call it a day. Its like 10min. Not sure what is the point to fight it.
That's bizarre at this stage of the game where complex OLM's are the defacto standard. I did check Toyota Canada and noted that the vehicle is required to visit the dealership every 6 months or every 8,000km (roughly every 5,000 miles) but the Schedule 2 maintenance interval, which has oil changes as a part of it, is every 12 months, or 10,000 miles. They do stipulate synthetic oil, but this still strikes me as being quite backwards when compared to its peers. At some point "playing it safe" just makes you look like a luddite, and that's my take on Toyota's approach here.Toyota's OLM is just a 10K measurement, it does not take into account hours/RPMs and etc. In Honda, it does account for how car is driven.
Yep, Toyota/Lexus seem to be behind on "smart" OLMs which have been used by Honda and many others for a decade or more.That's bizarre at this stage of the game where complex OLM's are the defacto standard.
Yes, but how is that only a Toyota phenomenon?If you find UOA of a person that averages 2-3 miles per trip, we will see fuel dilution
Yes, and on domestic marques as well. GM's OLM has been "smart" for at least as long, I believe they spearheaded the intelligent OLM on this side of the pond with others following suite.Yep, Toyota/Lexus seem to be behind on "smart" OLMs which have been used by Honda and many others for a decade or more.
Its not the only weird thing about Toyota, they also claim their transmissions come with lifetime ATF fluid.
Thats right, its not only toyota phenomenon, but others compensate for shorter OCI when car falls Into severe service. 10k regardless of how car is driven seems illogical to me.Yes, but how is that only a Toyota phenomenon?
Bottom line is 10k ocis on various platforms of Toyota engines show nothing but positive results (of course you can find outliers but that was due to design issues).
Most people think their driving in “severe” but in reality it’s far from that
Your bubble is about to pop. In some new Toyotas, including the AWD Prius, the rear axle is electronic. No driveshaft or xfer case is required.I hate computers and OLMs are just dumb ol' computers.
Next thing ya know they are gonna put electric drivetrains in cars and make 'em drive themselves!
What's a poor boy to do?
What was good enough for Grandpap is good enough for me!
I've had good results with the Fancy Fram filters. Never cared for fram in the past, but I like the build quality of this fram.Seems I've spiraled this into a conversation on OCI as well. I stated 5k because despite the 10k recommends I was a 3-3500 person years back with conventional. I upped that to 5k on my VW despite their 10k assurance, but kept my Jeep at 3500 due to ongoing issues and maintenance. Again with this being the new family hauler of the group that will be with us well past 100k I want to ensure I'm starting off right and keeping to my schedule, so 5k will be the OCI. Thanks for that video too
As for the oil type I will keep it to the 0W-20, I may have been looking at an older spec Highlander. Spending a few $ more on the EP is not a deal breaker for me I'm more concerned then with the filter. This will be the first car we own that has the element and O rings only. I'm sure OEM is fine but I do partake in Advance Auto deals for OC's so if there is any brand of filter touted here I'd love to hear about it.
For my VW I may switch between the OEM MANN filter and the Purolator BOSS whichever they had handy during the deal.