New brake pad and rotor installation questions

rcs

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The other point is that you are not going to know if any mechanic you choose is going to do the job like you want it done unless you check his work behind him and if you do that, you might as well do the job yourself. Doing brakes in a lot of cases is an easy job.

I do most if not all of the steps that Eric on South Main Auto does and never have any problems. One thing I definitely do these days is to make sure the slide pins are lubed well and with the correct lube because in my early days of doing brakes, I didn't do that and ended up with stuck pins and uneven wear.

Do you have any friends who can do brakes? If so, have them do it so you can watch and help and know exactly how it's being done.
I wish Eric on south Main Auto was in my area LOL. That is a very thorough job for brakes.
 

rcs

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I’ve noticed the opposite with Japanese cars(primarily Toyota products) and aftermarket pads having “slop” in the caliper brackets. Wagner, Bendix(both Honeywell and MAT brands), MAT Roulunds(old Duralast and current BrakeBest) and Centric have been offenders. What happens is the pads have so much lateral play that they’ll shift and clunk when the brakes are applied in reverse. Problem doesn’t happen with Akebono, and oddly enough, when I slapped on a set of Wagner TQs on a Subaru, they didn’t clunk.
I have a set of Wagner's on there now, because the Akebono's that were put on a couple of years ago became loose in the clips. They rattled like crazy after that time, scared me...I had no idea what the noise was. I had just had my car worked on and thought the tires were loose. This is what makes me wonder if they were the right size or not, when they were originally put on.

Why would the pads become loose in the clips? The mechanic from another shop showed that to me, then he put on the Wagener's.
 
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I have a set of Wagner's on there now, because the Akebono's that were put on a couple of years ago became loose in the clips. They rattled like crazy after that time, scared me...I had no idea what the noise was. I had just had my car worked on and thought the tires were loose. This is what makes me wonder if they were the right size or not, when they were originally put on.

Why would the pads become loose in the clips? The mechanic from another shop showed that to me, then he put on the Wagener's.
I cannot imagine the ears on the pad wearing enough so they become loose enough to rattle while sliding on the SS clips. Wrong pads? No SS clip?

You don't need a lift to do the brakes. A jack stand, some hand tools, c-clamp, files, wire brush and some lubes and a can of brake cleaner.
 

rcs

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I cannot imagine the ears on the pad wearing enough so they become loose enough to rattle while sliding on the SS clips. Wrong pads? No SS clip?

You don't need a lift to do the brakes. A jack stand, some hand tools, c-clamp, files, wire brush and some lubes and a can of brake cleaner.
I agree, so I don't know what caused it. But here is a theory...I detail my own car. I was using Adam's Tire and Wheel cleaner. I don't think it has any acid in it, but maybe it does? Is it possible that this may have caused a bit of erosion of the pads? Obviously I don't spray it on the pad/caliper area, but there definitely could have been some over spray despite thoroughly washing it off with water.
I don't want to get off topic here and into a detailing subject, but this is the only thing I can think of that I did in the past 3 years. Since having the Wagener's on, I stopped using this product and went to a different product. Or originally it was the wrong size pads, that is the only thing I can think of as well,...who knows.
 
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People here pay other people to do brake jobs???
LOL, good one, considering most of us are OCD DIYer's. Let's get back on topic, and not sway off on these mini debates. Let's address the OP's excellent request for assistance.

How does a person that values excellent care of their vehicle, but is not in the position to DIY, find someone/some place to do maintenance on their car to their higher, but not unreasonable standards? Should she fly The Critic to Michigan?
 
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D60

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LOL, good one, considering most of us are OCD DIYer's. Let's get back on topic, and not sway off on these mini debates. Let's address the OP's excellent request for assistance.

How does a person that values excellent care of their vehicle, but is not in the position to DIY, find someone/some place to do maintenance on their car to their higher, but not unreasonable standards? Should she fly The Critic to Michigan?
I think it's been answered. I think word of mouth is huge - that's how virtually everyone comes to me.

Around here there's a few mobile mechanic services, too. I'm not talking a YouTube mechanic in a 1990 Camry but legitimate guys with vans and signage who used to be ASE techs at shops and struck out on their own. I've never used such a service but this can be a good way to find one-man operations who might be more likely to take the time to chat and exercise attention to detail (maybe)....and I've gotta imagine things like brake jobs lend themselves to the mobile service model quite well. It could be worth it for the OP to investigate such a thing
 

rcs

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I think it's been answered. I think word of mouth is huge - that's how virtually everyone comes to me.

Around here there's a few mobile mechanic services, too. I'm not talking a YouTube mechanic in a 1990 Camry but legitimate guys with vans and signage who used to be ASE techs at shops and struck out on their own. I've never used such a service but this can be a good way to find one-man operations who might be more likely to take the time to chat and exercise attention to detail (maybe)....and I've gotta imagine things like brake jobs lend themselves to the mobile service model quite well. It could be worth it for the OP to investigate such a thing
I have read about those mobile mechanics. I found a friend of a friend who has a brake and muffler shop, so that is one option besides the dealership. Thanks so much everyone for your kind and thought responses, especially for the time you took to help me on this! It is most greatly appreciated.
 
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Honda Pilot has crappy rotors, as most Asian vehicles do. It is undersized for that weight and material is not appropriate. So, that is actually what you want to pay attention to. Get better rotors like EBC, Hawk etc.
Akebono from performance stand point is typical ceramic pad. It will do its job and it is made well.
Dynamic Friction is IMO only when you don’t have other options. I have some experience with them and quality is really not something, nowhere near Akebono (there is a reason why Akebono is OE supplier).
If you want more aggressive pad, go EBC GreenStuff or Pagid if available (it was for my Toyota Sienna). But, expect lot more dust.
I have the flagship Toyota product from 2006. It has fixed calipers all around. Nice calipers, and as you say, undersized rotors. When I first got the vehicle used, replacing the front brakes was part of the sale. It didn't take much I told the svc mgr of a GMC/Buick that I wanted OE Toyota parts. They used them as they returned all the old parts in the Lexus boxes. I was suprised to see a sensor, 4 caliper pins, cheap aftermarket rotors which they turned (they were gonna turn what was there but I asked for new). Get this, I asked if they could have the tech put anti seize when installing the new rotors. To my delight? He did. The rotors are loose, no set screw, held only in place by the pads.

Anyway, how Toyota OE rotors can be recognized, is that the hats are gray, not black. I used Centric in the rears and they look so similar to OE, down to the cross hatching of the surface. But the hats are black. I scored rear rotors for $27 on amazon and they're not the entry level they're the premium (back in 2017). No noise using those and Akebono ProActs. Seems to me the Centrics are quality and there is no rust on the hats. Unlike German cars which have zinc coated rotors which wont rust even 10 years later (not much), the toyota OE are severely rusted on the vanes and edges where the pads don't sweep. But not the hats. GM rotors are baked with nitrogen and again only the brake pads sweep away the coating. But my experience is they too rust severely in the vanes and back surface of the rotors eventually.

Back when the internet was very free and loosey goosey, I had come across a GM paper that was very technical on eliminating noise. It explained how customers make mistakes in describing noises....one is a squeal, and one is a groan, and they are two different things. Suffice it to say mfgs put some engineering into eliminating noise, because it's expensive to have cars come back for that under warranty, when it cannot be solved often other than with new parts.

my .02....
 
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I have the flagship Toyota product from 2006. It has fixed calipers all around. Nice calipers, and as you say, undersized rotors. When I first got the vehicle used, replacing the front brakes was part of the sale. It didn't take much I told the svc mgr of a GMC/Buick that I wanted OE Toyota parts. They used them as they returned all the old parts in the Lexus boxes. I was suprised to see a sensor, 4 caliper pins, cheap aftermarket rotors which they turned (they were gonna turn what was there but I asked for new). Get this, I asked if they could have the tech put anti seize when installing the new rotors. To my delight? He did. The rotors are loose, no set screw, held only in place by the pads.

Anyway, how Toyota OE rotors can be recognized, is that the hats are gray, not black. I used Centric in the rears and they look so similar to OE, down to the cross hatching of the surface. But the hats are black. I scored rear rotors for $27 on amazon and they're not the entry level they're the premium (back in 2017). No noise using those and Akebono ProActs. Seems to me the Centrics are quality and there is no rust on the hats. Unlike German cars which have zinc coated rotors which wont rust even 10 years later (not much), the toyota OE are severely rusted on the vanes and edges where the pads don't sweep. But not the hats. GM rotors are baked with nitrogen and again only the brake pads sweep away the coating. But my experience is they too rust severely in the vanes and back surface of the rotors eventually.

Back when the internet was very free and loosey goosey, I had come across a GM paper that was very technical on eliminating noise. It explained how customers make mistakes in describing noises....one is a squeal, and one is a groan, and they are two different things. Suffice it to say mfgs put some engineering into eliminating noise, because it's expensive to have cars come back for that under warranty, when it cannot be solved often other than with new parts.

my .02....
Problem I had on Sienna , Prado and this Honda is that brakes are pretty much sufficient to school run. Anything more than that and they can’t handle it. They start to vibrate etc.
I resolved on Toyota that with EBC rotors. On Honda, I still have to make myself do it. I drive that car too little as it is in laws that mostly use when they are here. I just forget about it.
 
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