New 2022 Kia Soul Turbo

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The lovely lady just bought this, 2nd turbo in the fleet. I’m running M1 FS 0w-40 in my K5, just want to confirm that a 5w-40 Euro (or the M1) will work for this 1.6L turbo engine. I mean, I know it will work, but is it an appropriate choice and blah blah blah.

OM calls for A5/B5 5w-30

Doesn’t give a API rating for the turbo, the 2.0 NA is speced to SN+/SP or GF6 0w-20

Thoughts?
 
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5w40 killed the response on my VW 1.4t - even the cat was getting hot and smelly- I don't know why.
a good 30 should do the trick. Over-protect is almost as bad as under-protect in modern engines.

Just follow the "Three Bears" moral :)
 

SilverFusion2010

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This is funny, the last time I was on here talking about my K5 GT and the response was all about the euro. As in 5w-30 or the M1 HM 10w-30 I was running before wasn’t enough.

For the record my GT runs like a scalded cat on M1 0w-40 FS. I couldn’t tell a difference from the factory 0w-30 fill or the M1 HM 10w-30 that I changed to on first change.

Keep it coming…
 
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Real world shouldn’t make much to no difference 30-40wt, maybe you’re getting a little more oil pressure on the 40wt.
 
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Running Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 in my daughter's 20 Kia Soul 1.6T and in my 2017 Regal GS 2.0T ;)
 
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The catalytic converter will love that.
Actually, even high zinc/ high phosphorus racing oils wouldn't harm the catalytic converter unless the engine was consuming lots of it. Extended idling, granny driving all the time, driving with worn spark plugs and running too rich are harmful to them.
 
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I haven't figured out what to do with my wife's palisade that has the same oil spec. A5/B5 or A3/B3. I have some Mobil 1 Euro 5W40 that meets the A3/B3. No turbo to worry about but it is GDI so I wasn't sure if the higher ash in the euro oils would contribute to intake valve deposits. Some say the Atkinson cycle leaving the intake valve open longer helps, but I'm not sure what is the right answer besides changing it often.
 
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This is funny, the last time I was on here talking about my K5 GT and the response was all about the euro. As in 5w-30 or the M1 HM 10w-30 I was running before wasn’t enough.

For the record my GT runs like a scalded cat on M1 0w-40 FS. I couldn’t tell a difference from the factory 0w-30 fill or the M1 HM 10w-30 that I changed to on first change.

Keep it coming…
Those three oils were all likely ACEA A3/B4 high HTHS. Big piston engines respond well to higher HTHS, IME. The smaller piston engines tend do O.K. on lower HTHS fluids. This is due to the lower reciprocating mass, lower side thrust, and a better piston aspect ratio on small bore small displacement ICE. No reason for loosing power and response to a high HTHS fluid. where the greater margin of safety is likely NOT needed. - Ken
 
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I haven't figured out what to do with my wife's palisade that has the same oil spec. A5/B5 or A3/B3. I have some Mobil 1 Euro 5W40 that meets the A3/B3. No turbo to worry about but it is GDI so I wasn't sure if the higher ash in the euro oils would contribute to intake valve deposits. Some say the Atkinson cycle leaving the intake valve open longer helps, but I'm not sure what is the right answer besides changing it often.
You need to regularly clean the intake valves anyways whether you use a low ash or full saps oil.
 
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