Negotiating used vehicle price at the dealer

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The only thing I would add to this is many places are now selling financing, not cars. No matter how fair or great of an offer you believe you are making, if they are selling "buy here - pay here" or similar, they are not in the car selling business, but the loan selling business.

There is a different set of rules in play at such a business.

Originally Posted By: cashmoney
Negotiating a price on a used car is super easy if first you take the time to understand the car selling business.

Rule number 1 is don't ever negotiate price on a car transaction sitting at the dealer. Negotiating price while at the dealer marks you as the average sucker that they can screw on the deal. Instead once you have identified the specific car you want you need to leave the dealer and go home. Tell the salesperson you will think it over and give him a call to discuss price. All price negotiations must be done over the phone or via email. Note that the dealer hates that because they have no leverage or power over you if you are not sitting there investing your time at the dealer. They will do everything they can to keep you sitting there at the dealer.

Rule number 2 when you call is ask for a full drive out price in writing on the vehicle. That means getting the full total cost of the car plus tax, tag, and title ("drive out" price). Do not negotiate any line items or any other costs. Negotiating individual line items is another sign that the buyer is a sucker. Most line items on an dealer car invoice are pure [censored] and don't matter. Negotiate the bottom line cost only and get it in writing via email. Reply to them with your fair counter offer by phone or in writing and wait their reply. Be patient, act like you have all the time in the world and let them know you may shop and negotiate other dealers at same time.

It is important to understand a car dealer's business. 1) Every used car sitting on the lot is financed ("on plan" in industry lingo) and interest on each has to be paid every month. 2) Every used car on the lot is worth less each month (depreciation) 3) The longer the car sits the more it costs the dealer and the more likely they are to want to sell at a discount. 4) after a car has sat on the lot for 90 days most big dealers send the car to the auction or to a secondary down scale lot where it will be sold to marginal credit buyers, etc.

Offer a fair price over the phone or via email and let them know you have all the time in the world. It is critical to understand that they are the ones that want to sell as quickly as possible although they are masters at hiding that fact.

You also have to understand supply and demand for the car you want. If the dealer has a desirable super hot demand car in mint condition they are not going to discount it all because it will sell fast at asking price. They know exactly what cars sell fast and would be idiots to sell one at a discount. If the car is less desirable for any reason (higher miles, not mint, bad color, previous damage, low demand model,etc) than of course they must discount to get it off the lot unless of course they get a sucker to buy it.

Also if you come to an agreement via email or phone let them know that if the total drive out number changes by even a dollar that you will immediate walk out and not return under any circumstances.

It is important to be polite, courteous and 100% professional while negotiating - this is a simple business transaction. It is not personal. The dealer needs to make a profit on the sale and you need to make the purchase at the minimum expense. Once they understand that you know the business and are not the usual bozo, they usually stop most but not all the typical slimy sales weasel behavior.
 
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
I agree on the "bottom line price" strategy....let the dealer fiddle with numbers so long as they meet your bottom line.




THIS-I trade in most of my cars-the price between trade in and what I can sell it for has been acceptable. I don't care if they give me $20,000.00 for my trade in-and sell me the new car for $10.00. Let them deal with the numbers, as long as it meets what I had in mind for the difference.
 
That's the game my local big chain dealers play. They'll show you how much lower their price is than blue book retail, NADA, etc.. The longer the vehicle sits, the more they reduce the price.

Recently did a deal at a local huge chain dealership with a family member for a used 2012 Toyota Avalon. It sat for a few months at their Subaru store and the dealer showed us what they paid the previous owner for trade-in allowance for it (supposedly). They sold it to us for "less".. Again.. Supposedly.

Like said, used sales is where they make their money, so it's worth it for them to put time and effort into the sales process.
 
Originally Posted By: askani79705
Make the same offer to them online.


Best way to buy any car or truck, bought my last two cars this way, no hassle dealing with a salesman, give them your best price and go from there, easy to wait them out and in the end they will call you back to make the deal.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: VeeDubb
Originally Posted By: dishdude
Cash isn't going to help you at a dealer, they want you to finance so they can make more money.


That's my experience too. In fact at times I almost feel like they lose interest when I say I'm a cash customer.



Not sure what youre buying but even with cars that "sell themselves" supposedly (Hondas), it gauges seriousness and the bona-fide ability to make a sale that day, versus wasting hours on nothing.
 
FWIW I did an Autotrader search for my Cruze, and Pohanka Chevrolet in D.C. had not only the lowest advertised price (14,200 for a 2015 LT automatic with tech pkg), but the lowest mileage (2,500 miles). It was less than the KBB private party value. They got me on the processing fee, though. I was able to negotiate thatfrom 600 to $300, but that was all I could do. Out the door $15,200. I felt that was a decent price as it was almost new and no way could I get a new leftover 2015 for that price OTD (or even within $2,500).
 
Typical dealer bogus fees include "document or processing" fees. These are in house business costs that dealers have learned to put on car invoices to pass along to gullible consumers. The way this scam works is dealer negotiates a fictitious "purchase" price with gullible customer that does not include all these costs and then they are added later and customer is told "oh these are standard". That is why it is critical to only negotiate the bottom line total purchase price. A smart buyer tells the dealer that he doesn't care how many added cost line items the dealer adds or what the items are called, because the buyer will only negotiate the bottom line total purchase price. I tell the dealer they can make their numbers and invoice line items anything you want. I don't care as long as the invoice total purchase price totals exactly to the purchase price we agreed to in the deal on the phone or online. Of course the dealer hates to hear this kind of conversation.

The only real costs for a car are 1) Total purchase price (cost of car plus all [censored] dealer add on fees) plus 2) State and local tax plus 3) License plate (tag) and title fees (these two fees are state and local gov regulated) equals = Total purchase cost to buyer.

Every other line item like delivery prep, marketing, document fees, coffee fund, dog walking expense, etc are all 100% bogus dealer line items that go into the total purchase price. None of them matter in terms of individual line items. Negotiate item 1 above only - the total purchase price. Item 2 and 3 are taxes and local gov fees that are standard.

If you read surveys of car buyers almost 100% of them think they successfully negotiated and got good deal when in reality 90% of car buyers typically have over paid to some extent for their cars. In most cases car buyers overpay because they don't understand the car business very well. The car dealers are pros at the game of extracting maximum dollars from the buyer and only the smart dealers survive for very long.
 
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Negotiating a total out the door price by email is definitely the wise way to go and you'd be crazy not to do so if you've got the time and resources to work it that way.

Most people need to trade something in, choose to lease or lease with a trade-in which totally changes the playing field. I know in ~25yrs of buying vehicles from dealerships, negotiating a rock bottom out the door price (or what YOU think is rock bottom) and then at the last minute, telling them you want to trade something in does not work. Oh sure, you can make it work, but you are not going to get what you want for a trade-in allowance.
 
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Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: VeeDubb
Originally Posted By: dishdude
Cash isn't going to help you at a dealer, they want you to finance so they can make more money.


That's my experience too. In fact at times I almost feel like they lose interest when I say I'm a cash customer.



Not sure what youre buying but even with cars that "sell themselves" supposedly (Hondas), it gauges seriousness and the bona-fide ability to make a sale that day, versus wasting hours on nothing.


I would think they would be a lot more excited about a customer who is desperate, has an average to below credit score and MUST have financing. You approve a guy like that and he is likely to do the deal and at a high interest rate with little bargaining power.

If you walked on my lot with your big chunk of cash asking for my rock bottom price and I know you are probably shopping competing dealers, why would I be excited about doing a deal with you? I'm gonna make $100 bucks if at all on the sale while not being able to make it up by selling you financing. Meanwhile, I've missed out on more profitable customer s.
 
Originally Posted By: VeeDubb
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: VeeDubb
Originally Posted By: dishdude
Cash isn't going to help you at a dealer, they want you to finance so they can make more money.


That's my experience too. In fact at times I almost feel like they lose interest when I say I'm a cash customer.



Not sure what youre buying but even with cars that "sell themselves" supposedly (Hondas), it gauges seriousness and the bona-fide ability to make a sale that day, versus wasting hours on nothing.


I would think they would be a lot more excited about a customer who is desperate, has an average to below credit score and MUST have financing. You approve a guy like that and he is likely to do the deal and at a high interest rate with little bargaining power.

If you walked on my lot with your big chunk of cash asking for my rock bottom price and I know you are probably shopping competing dealers, why would I be excited about doing a deal with you? I'm gonna make $100 bucks if at all on the sale while not being able to make it up by selling you financing. Meanwhile, I've missed out on more profitable customer s.


Ding ding ding ding ding - we have a winner!
 
Originally Posted By: VeeDubb
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: VeeDubb
Originally Posted By: dishdude
Cash isn't going to help you at a dealer, they want you to finance so they can make more money.


That's my experience too. In fact at times I almost feel like they lose interest when I say I'm a cash customer.



Not sure what youre buying but even with cars that "sell themselves" supposedly (Hondas), it gauges seriousness and the bona-fide ability to make a sale that day, versus wasting hours on nothing.


I would think they would be a lot more excited about a customer who is desperate, has an average to below credit score and MUST have financing. You approve a guy like that and he is likely to do the deal and at a high interest rate with little bargaining power.

If you walked on my lot with your big chunk of cash asking for my rock bottom price and I know you are probably shopping competing dealers, why would I be excited about doing a deal with you? I'm gonna make $100 bucks if at all on the sale while not being able to make it up by selling you financing. Meanwhile, I've missed out on more profitable customer s.


Say what you like, its worked just fine so far for me.

Sounds like youre trying to take advantage of people. Id probably not be shopping at your dealership anyway with an outlook like that.

Dealers dont make money on cars. oving product vs not is still a big deal. OP is buying used, which has a fatter profit from whomever the last scmhuck was that traded in a 2015 vehicle... So the deal was likely fat as is.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
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Say what you like, its worked just fine so far for me.

Sounds like youre trying to take advantage of people. Id probably not be shopping at your dealership anyway with an outlook like that.

Dealers dont make money on cars. oving product vs not is still a big deal. OP is buying used, which has a fatter profit from whomever the last scmhuck was that traded in a 2015 vehicle... So the deal was likely fat as is.


I don't have a dealership and have never sold cars for a living so I have never taken advantage of anyone. That was me putting myself into the shoes of a salesmen.

I have done enough buying across many makes and models to be able to do that since I basically buy for my mom, sister and cousin. The only times I have ever recieved no responses is when I said I am paying cash and "what is your lowest price.". This happened both with a Honda dealership and Mercedes dealership.

Sure this works fine at large volume places. But we are far from their ideal customer.

I now no longer say upfront that I am paying cash.
 
How about hinting that you would need their help in qualifying for credit? Would that make dealer salivate over the prospect? But you have to be very subtle about it and not lie. "say, does seven year old bankrupcy affects getting loan?"
 
Any time I have gone looking at a used vehicle on a lot, I pull the info and get a NADA and KBB value, and to be realistic, the value of retail. The ONLY way it can garner the Excellent pricing category is if the complete maintenance records on the vehicle are available. That is per both NADA and KBB. Hardly ever will be the case. Therefore, the dealer quote has to be in the good or lower category. And that is just the starting point. It has to be near perfect condition or the price has to go down even more. Else, I do what every customer can do... walk away. Have made some pretty good deals over the years starting with this approach. I print out the NADA and KBB reports and take them with me. Nowadays, just look it up online while there.
 
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Any time I have gone looking at a used vehicle on a lot, I pull the info and get a NADA and KBB value, and to be realistic, the value of retail..


TT, I do the same thing.

What I've found in recent years is, as soon as you show interest in a used vehicle, the sales person pulls/prints these reports for you to demonstrate how "low" their price is in comparison. It almost kills your bargaining power other than throwing numbers out there to see if they'll stick, given you don't know what they've got into the vehicle cost wise.
 
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I have a friend who has access to auction prices; sometimes he can even find the cost of the exact car I'm looking at. At worst I have a pretty good idea what the selling dealer paid for the car- as well as what my trade is worth to them.
 
You can make that work to your advantage as a buyer. Be honest, I'm going to be a mini deal. You can keep trying to work me, or you can complete the deal and move on to the next up.

I've LOWERED my offer on a saleman trying to work me over. I told him my time is valuable too, and the more you waste trying to get a few hundred more than I'm willing to pay, the more I feel I need a better deal.

I drove out with the car at my new lower bottom line price.

Originally Posted By: VeeDubb
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: VeeDubb
Originally Posted By: dishdude
Cash isn't going to help you at a dealer, they want you to finance so they can make more money.


That's my experience too. In fact at times I almost feel like they lose interest when I say I'm a cash customer.



Not sure what youre buying but even with cars that "sell themselves" supposedly (Hondas), it gauges seriousness and the bona-fide ability to make a sale that day, versus wasting hours on nothing.


I would think they would be a lot more excited about a customer who is desperate, has an average to below credit score and MUST have financing. You approve a guy like that and he is likely to do the deal and at a high interest rate with little bargaining power.

If you walked on my lot with your big chunk of cash asking for my rock bottom price and I know you are probably shopping competing dealers, why would I be excited about doing a deal with you? I'm gonna make $100 bucks if at all on the sale while not being able to make it up by selling you financing. Meanwhile, I've missed out on more profitable customer s.
 
I agree. If you can somehow signal you will be a quick and hassle free deal for the salesperson, they will bite. But you still have to lookout for the back-end weasel stuff like padded doc fees, hard sells on extended warranties, etc.

The other problem is that some salesman won't believe you when you try to signal you are hassle free because the typical cash buyer looking for the lowest price is a pain in the rear to deal with. They will pound on the salesman for days trying to squeeze an extra $100 out of them assuming that their cash gives them leverage. So salesman will stereotype guys like us just like we stereotype them.

A buddy of mine once went to a no-haggle place and tried to get the sales guy to knock $500 off the price of the car because he is a "cash buyer". The salesman told him they don't haggle but my buddy insisted. Finally, the sales guy literally got up and walked away.
 
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Originally Posted By: JTK
given you don't know what they've got into the vehicle cost wise.


I don't care what they have into it. If they can get it from a widow for $500 more power to them. On the flipside if they blow too much money on the recon (doubtful) and they're losing money on the deal (quote-unquote), too bad they're incompetent at the one job they have, flipping cars.

If I'm picky about year/ make/ model/ equipment, they need to compete against similar vehicles in similar shape from other dealers. If they can't, they need to move on.
 
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