Taurus rotors are forever warping.
Neglected Taurus: Need advise
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Flatratetech.com is a good resource for info. I also bought a DVD manual that is close to being as good as a facotory manual from them.
Way better than Chiltons or Haynes. Specs for anything. I believe they want $50 for the DVD but it is worth it. I bought the DVD a while back, I believe they are still available.
The Auto-rx did wonders for my 98 Vulcan Taurus engine. Highly recommended.
Way better than Chiltons or Haynes. Specs for anything. I believe they want $50 for the DVD but it is worth it. I bought the DVD a while back, I believe they are still available.
The Auto-rx did wonders for my 98 Vulcan Taurus engine. Highly recommended.
I would change the oil, filters and give it a tune up including plug wires. Check the tranny fluid and if it is old then remove all the fluid you can through the filler tube with a cheap oil pump as well as the power steering. I have had good results with this method. Check the mpg over a month or so and you may not have to replace the o2 sensors if it is giving good mpg's
Vulcan
Well, with all the money you spent in gas driving from store to store....
PepBoys has up to 10 quarts of MaxLife and a MaxLife filter free after rebate this week, or if you don't want the rebate hassle, grab a 5 quart jug of Havoline and a Supertech filter at Wally World and you have an oil change for about $11 with a quality dino IMO.
Service the tranny with a new filter and Mobil 1 atf. IMO Mobil 1 atf = tranny overhaul in a bottle.
If the motor ever gets hot or overheats, check the cooling fan control, or for pushed pins in the cooling fan wiring harness plug.
If the motor ever gets hot or overheats, check the cooling fan control, or for pushed pins in the cooling fan wiring harness plug.
Tell me about it. I just did the front brakes on my '99 for under $120 with parts from AutoZone (Duralast Gold stuff). Much better
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FWIW- my daughter's 91 is a Vulcan ...we got it with 131k on it. It drank oil by the hour of operation. Two A-Rx treatments and 35+k later ..it runs just fine on a steady diet of MC 5w-20 with less then 1 quart consumption between 6 month OCI's (short mileage usage). If I was in a more severe climate ..or if she did more mileage, I'd have no reservations about using a synth. If everything else holds together (the PO already had the trans issues- I caught the CV joints- the water pump - and, because of a broken bolt in the timing cover, the timing chain.) ..this will see well over 200k before retirement.
We have a 93 and a 99 Taurus, and living on a hill with the dumb autos in both cars we chew thru brakes. In my experience 'warping' ended up being glazing, as you could cure it with an 'Italian brake tune up', using the brakes hard from speed, and not riding them forever like many seem to with the auto. If they were warped they would always pulse. Some of the brake cleaners might work too.
You may want to be careful about the radiator fluids that you use. I used the Prestone extended fluid in both cars, and have ended up replacing a radiator because one of the stupid crimped on plastic tanks (yes, lots of stupid things on tehse cars) cracked, andon the other the pressurized overflow tank developed a small crack. It has a big glob of plastic glue/sealer on it and seems to be holding so far. If I had to do it over again I'd use plain ole radiator fluid instead of the fancy stuff.
Our 99 with over 95k miles on it looks spotless when peering into the engine in the oil filler cap.
You may want to be careful about the radiator fluids that you use. I used the Prestone extended fluid in both cars, and have ended up replacing a radiator because one of the stupid crimped on plastic tanks (yes, lots of stupid things on tehse cars) cracked, andon the other the pressurized overflow tank developed a small crack. It has a big glob of plastic glue/sealer on it and seems to be holding so far. If I had to do it over again I'd use plain ole radiator fluid instead of the fancy stuff.
Our 99 with over 95k miles on it looks spotless when peering into the engine in the oil filler cap.
....interrupted.... Both cars had dealer oil change for awhile, then home made blends of Havoline dino / Havoline synthetic, then Mobil dino / Mobil 1 T&S, then 100% Mobil 1 T&S, and now both are on 100% Mobil 1 0W40. An experiment with Delvac 15w40 in the older car was short as it was just too thick for startup, and although it fared well on 5w40 the newer one didn't as it'd sometimes take a couple of times to get it started in the morning. The 99 still has the OEM battery so it might be getting old, but since I switched to 0w40 on it I did so for both cars, and both start easily and run nicely on the stuff. An experiment with 100% Mobil 5000 10w30 in the older car was a disaster, resulting in clogged a cat, egr, fouled sensors, etc., which is why I switched to 100% 5w40. It just turned over 200k miles and is running well.
Woe to those who travel in the land of Dearborn under the banner of the Taurus clan, for the king of Dearborn demands much tribute.
Woe to those who travel in the land of Dearborn under the banner of the Taurus clan, for the king of Dearborn demands much tribute.
Why did the Mobil 5000 do all that??
Also, isn't the 40 wt a tad thick for those engines? I would think they would enjoy a thinner oil, like a 30 or even 20 wt...
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The 3.0 Vulcan looks to be a "viscosity neutral" ( "aero-neutral" of NASCAR fame :wink: ) engine. I've had 15w-40 in it ..and 5w-20 and it appears to care less as far as "somatic" complaints indicate.
From what I can gather here, the Ford quality is no better, and NO worse than that of Honda and Toyota.(According to CU, the standard bearers)..
The service quality of American cars in general seems to be abysmal; but the built in durability seems to over-come the lack of mainteneance....I'd like to see how well the A-Rx does work on this car - a good test bed, probably a non-sludging engine..
The service quality of American cars in general seems to be abysmal; but the built in durability seems to over-come the lack of mainteneance....I'd like to see how well the A-Rx does work on this car - a good test bed, probably a non-sludging engine..
For the mis-fire, I would put a can of Berryman's Chemtool B-12 in a tank of gasoline.
This is a solvent type of cleaner and will get the deposits that will be over the spray end of the fuel injectors.
Then...to keep it clean..use the detergent based cleaners, such as FP60 (Fuel Power) from lube control, you can find them on this site, or Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner.....
Change the tranny fluid with the correct fluid. A fluid exchange is a good idea. A fluid exchange is not the same as a "power flush".
Most quick change places will do this for you.....the machine adds new fluid as the old fluid comes out.....at the same rate / amount.
I did the "exchange" myself....drained as much as I could, dropped the pan, wiped it out, changed the filter, put the pan back.....and then put fluid in......at the same amount that I had taken out. Then I ran fluid out of the cooler return line......added new fluid to the tranny....into the clean pan....and did this over and over a few times. You will do a GREAT job if you end up using about 3 quarts more than the capacity of the transmission. In other words, using 15 quarts for a 12 quart capacity unit......The extra fluid is to better flush out the tranny....as fluid mixes in the torque converter. Of course, you do NOT want to end up with the fluid level over or under the correct level on the dip stick.
I would buy Motorcraft brand of oxygen sensors. Very likely, you do not need to replace them at all.... But if you do.....it is not much more for the genuine Motorcraft brand.
Yes, DO replace the power steering fluid. It will most likely be Mercon Rated ATF and NOT generic power steering fluid.
Use your manual to select the correct fluids......and use the FORD specification numbers to help you select the correct fluids. My manual ('96 windstar) said to use "Premium Power Steering Fluid....part number xxxxx" or a fluid that meets specification number xxxx. A search on the specification number got me to the information that it is ATF in there, and not "Power Steering Fluid" that I would find at the auto parts store.
You will want to change the coolant also, with the correct type.
Again, check your manual...
If they say "Ford / Motorcraft Premium Green", it is the traditional Green Silicate coolant.....lower silicate level than the old "high silicate" coolant.
If it says "Ford / Motorcraft Premium Gold, it is a G-05, HOAT, low silicate coolant. Hybrid Organic Acid Technology.
If it says "Ford / Motorcraft Premium Orange" it is a "Dexcool" OAT, Organic Acid Technology, coolant, with no silicate.
I do remember seeing a post about the tauras being prone to develop a leak (crack) in the coolant overflow tank. I do not know what years were involved.
With the brakes. Get good quality rotors and pads.....replace the hardware. Whenever a tire is taken off.....make CERTAIN that the lug nuts are torqued to the correct tightness in a "star" pattern. I think the correct amount is 100 foot pounds. I bought my own torque wrench for doing this myself. Dealership put my wheels on......and later I found that a slight rattle noise was one of my lug nuts rolling around inside my hub cap. By then, the damage was done...warped rotor.
A little TLC on your part, and the car will do you fine.
This is a solvent type of cleaner and will get the deposits that will be over the spray end of the fuel injectors.
Then...to keep it clean..use the detergent based cleaners, such as FP60 (Fuel Power) from lube control, you can find them on this site, or Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner.....
Change the tranny fluid with the correct fluid. A fluid exchange is a good idea. A fluid exchange is not the same as a "power flush".
Most quick change places will do this for you.....the machine adds new fluid as the old fluid comes out.....at the same rate / amount.
I did the "exchange" myself....drained as much as I could, dropped the pan, wiped it out, changed the filter, put the pan back.....and then put fluid in......at the same amount that I had taken out. Then I ran fluid out of the cooler return line......added new fluid to the tranny....into the clean pan....and did this over and over a few times. You will do a GREAT job if you end up using about 3 quarts more than the capacity of the transmission. In other words, using 15 quarts for a 12 quart capacity unit......The extra fluid is to better flush out the tranny....as fluid mixes in the torque converter. Of course, you do NOT want to end up with the fluid level over or under the correct level on the dip stick.
I would buy Motorcraft brand of oxygen sensors. Very likely, you do not need to replace them at all.... But if you do.....it is not much more for the genuine Motorcraft brand.
Yes, DO replace the power steering fluid. It will most likely be Mercon Rated ATF and NOT generic power steering fluid.
Use your manual to select the correct fluids......and use the FORD specification numbers to help you select the correct fluids. My manual ('96 windstar) said to use "Premium Power Steering Fluid....part number xxxxx" or a fluid that meets specification number xxxx. A search on the specification number got me to the information that it is ATF in there, and not "Power Steering Fluid" that I would find at the auto parts store.
You will want to change the coolant also, with the correct type.
Again, check your manual...
If they say "Ford / Motorcraft Premium Green", it is the traditional Green Silicate coolant.....lower silicate level than the old "high silicate" coolant.
If it says "Ford / Motorcraft Premium Gold, it is a G-05, HOAT, low silicate coolant. Hybrid Organic Acid Technology.
If it says "Ford / Motorcraft Premium Orange" it is a "Dexcool" OAT, Organic Acid Technology, coolant, with no silicate.
I do remember seeing a post about the tauras being prone to develop a leak (crack) in the coolant overflow tank. I do not know what years were involved.
With the brakes. Get good quality rotors and pads.....replace the hardware. Whenever a tire is taken off.....make CERTAIN that the lug nuts are torqued to the correct tightness in a "star" pattern. I think the correct amount is 100 foot pounds. I bought my own torque wrench for doing this myself. Dealership put my wheels on......and later I found that a slight rattle noise was one of my lug nuts rolling around inside my hub cap. By then, the damage was done...warped rotor.
A little TLC on your part, and the car will do you fine.
Funny you mention that...someone else posted about this also.
As a matter of fact, the tank has two huge globs of glue to stop it from leaking, though it does leak. Got a replacement from a buddy at a Ford dealership...it appears this is a dealer-only item, as I couldn't fine an aftermarket replacement when I searched online.
Vulcan engine last a very long time, it is pushrod and is very easy on oil. It is the transmission you have to worry about. IMO you really should do a couple pan drop and filter change with 1-2k interval using Mercon V, and Auto-RX, then at the end finish with a good Mercon V (Mola's specialty formulation has a Mercon V formula too).
The plastic coolant tank sucks too, it cracks all the time and is considered a maintanence item.
The plastic coolant tank sucks too, it cracks all the time and is considered a maintanence item.
Pity you missed the free Valvo Maxlife oil-via-rebate deal at PepBoys, probably valid up to today, but it was slim pickings at my local PB by last Tuesday...
"Also, isn't the 40 wt a tad thick for those engines? I would think they would enjoy a thinner oil, like a 30 or even 20 wt... "
More noise and oil consumption with a lighter oil, especially the hotter it gets. These engines seem to run hot, at least the older ones, where even when pretty new we'd have to turn off the air in the summer on a long grade with a full car as the engine temperature would climb.
More noise and oil consumption with a lighter oil, especially the hotter it gets. These engines seem to run hot, at least the older ones, where even when pretty new we'd have to turn off the air in the summer on a long grade with a full car as the engine temperature would climb.
I'm gonna go with the 5W30 for now and see how the car does.
Her A/C also works poorly...just found that little gem of info out. I hope that this one will be an easy fix as warmer-weather approaches. At least it's R134a.
Look like we're into this car for the equivalent of two new-car payments now...I still think it's money well-spent.
So long as it runs well, in this case the best car for her is a car that is already paid-off!
Her A/C also works poorly...just found that little gem of info out. I hope that this one will be an easy fix as warmer-weather approaches. At least it's R134a.
Look like we're into this car for the equivalent of two new-car payments now...I still think it's money well-spent.
So long as it runs well, in this case the best car for her is a car that is already paid-off!
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