maybe the sludge is holding that engine together.
With the reputation of these engines i'm really shocked that it hasn't failed !
Help me plan a strategy for a neglected Kia
- Thread starter Elijah1
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With the reputation of these engines i'm really shocked that it hasn't failed !
Stage 1 - high detergent diesel oil with CK minimum rating and HTHS no viscosity improvers full synthetic oil at 3233 miles
Stage 2 - drain and refill with same oil as above but with 200ml of diesel fuel added. Drive for 300 miles at 166kmph or 4000rpm without stopping or slowing down, ever.
Stage 3 - use a heavy A3/B4 porsche spec oil for 2000 kms, not miles. 10w40 specifically.
Stage 4 - seafoam above oil after reaching 2000kms and then drain as oer seafoam instructions.
Stage 5 - fill with regular oil and keep at 5000 km oci.
This is known as the Toyota 5S system. It works for any engine though.
Stage 2 - drain and refill with same oil as above but with 200ml of diesel fuel added. Drive for 300 miles at 166kmph or 4000rpm without stopping or slowing down, ever.
Stage 3 - use a heavy A3/B4 porsche spec oil for 2000 kms, not miles. 10w40 specifically.
Stage 4 - seafoam above oil after reaching 2000kms and then drain as oer seafoam instructions.
Stage 5 - fill with regular oil and keep at 5000 km oci.
This is known as the Toyota 5S system. It works for any engine though.
Buy HPL products.
Thats the perfect answer for EVERYTHING, even flat tires and dead batteries.
Thats the perfect answer for EVERYTHING, even flat tires and dead batteries.
Works for what? Emptying the owner's pocket while doing absolutely nothing to address the problem, and helping an already subpar engine meet an earlier demise? I'm hoping this was sarcasm, but it seems you're serious?
It's not a good idea.
This is not known as anything. It has nothing to do with Toyota. It is a bunch of steps that perhaps have some kind of appeal because of perceived complexity. A better name for this would be "The Jack and the Beanstalk Method."
The solution to not changing the oil in a long time is to plan a few more rapid oil changes and hope for the best.
1. Cheap oil and cheap filter for two shorter OCI. Even semi-synthetic if you can find it cheap enough.
2. Asses engine condition and sludge buildup.
3. Sell the car or continue with decent-quality oils and/or engine cleaners/flushes.
Putting in cleaners or expensive oils is not the first thing I would add to an engine with moderate to high amount of sludge.
2. Asses engine condition and sludge buildup.
3. Sell the car or continue with decent-quality oils and/or engine cleaners/flushes.
Putting in cleaners or expensive oils is not the first thing I would add to an engine with moderate to high amount of sludge.
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As a BITOGer I’d check that oil right away. I believe there’s an interval replacement on the pcv.
Anyone not detecting sarcasm needs their sarcasm detectors recalibrated.Works for what? Emptying the owner's pocket while doing absolutely nothing to address the problem, and helping an already subpar engine meet an earlier demise? I'm hoping this was sarcasm, but it seems you're serious?
Well, there have been members over the years who have done all of your 5S steps while sacrificing live chickens on their intake manifolds during the fourth full moon after the winter solstice while wearing the still-warm skin of a fresh Bigfoot kill, but their Toyota still had coked oil rings.Anyone not detecting sarcasm needs their sarcasm detectors recalibrated.
Wanted to save you a little time.
In this situation spend the $300 and but the BG Dynamic engine cleaner kit.
Available from Bezos World.
Available from Bezos World.
I laughed alot yesterday. thank you.Anyone not detecting sarcasm needs their sarcasm detectors recalibrated.
Remember this guy? Ha Ha Ha
Here is a recommendation of what NOT to do.
Here is a recommendation of what NOT to do.
I can only wish you luck, not just with the Kia.
How do you know the thing has more sludge then you know what to do with? I would pull valve cover or use a scope like someone else mentioned to see if there really is a problem or that big of a problem first.
i am serious. how a prospective wife takes responsible care of herself and her stuff is important to note. we all know that love is blind but a car is a lifeline in america; if it is neglected then what else is neglected that should be more readily apparent? don’t we offer to check a car belonging to loved ones who aren’t car people. a 47yo female shouldn’t be a clueless 19 yr old girl, eh. o.p. did note some daddy issues.
anyway such thoughts aren’t completely germane to this pcmo subforum. how about pivoting to just consider, what is so terribly wrong with just going to jiffy lube every 3,000 miles? indeed not ideal according to bitog, but “perfect is the enemy of good enough” and jiffy lube sure would have beaten the alternative that befell o.p. to his dismay.
Watching this was a straight up horror show. He has another video where he hand cleans the top and bottom end of an engine. Thank you for sharing. I like horror shows but feel REALLY bad for anyone who goes to him for service.
I’d just change to the cheapest in spec conventional oil and a standard Fram or Wix filter, change all other stuff that needs changing (coolant, all filters, tires, brake fluid and pads, atf fluid if needed ..), get the aircon checked including cleaning caked dust off the condenser, take the car out for a longish road trip where you see if you can find a stretch with no lurking cops or speed cams to give it an “Italian tuneup”.
Then come back and change the oil once more .. to another reasonable conventional one and just use the car for say 3k miles before you change again.
If the car still runs fine and you don’t see any point in trading it in, go ahead and fill whatever favourite oil you have in mind Castrol Edge for me over Amsoil HPL or whatever else .. or head over heart decision, fill another conventional or syn blend and change every 3-5k miles.
Then come back and change the oil once more .. to another reasonable conventional one and just use the car for say 3k miles before you change again.
If the car still runs fine and you don’t see any point in trading it in, go ahead and fill whatever favourite oil you have in mind Castrol Edge for me over Amsoil HPL or whatever else .. or head over heart decision, fill another conventional or syn blend and change every 3-5k miles.
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