Need urgent help from plumbers HVAC guys please!!!

[Blue_Goose]

I'm sorry guys I'm not trying to be a whiner here but after this other plumber installed the 4 inch vent I am scared to death...

How hot should Type B pipe get??? All of a sudden after this plumber installed 4 inch pipe my Tee and chimney feed (Type B) becomes very hot to the touch! I don't recall that happening with the 3 inch pipe and in fact when I made the comment that it seemed cooler than the other pipes(when 3 inch was in) he said of course it would be because it is double lined pipe and doesn't get as hot as the single wall. Well take a look at these pics before and after it looks like he crimped the 4 inch pipe and put it OVER the Tee opening instead of in it like it was before and taped it up..to me that is forcing a lot of the exhaust out to the surface of the Tee and chimney

I don't think I am being an alarmist here am I???? I'm not trying to whine but I have 2 kids in the house and am afraid of what he has done.....he also spun the Tee out a bit to get it away from the wood and now that is loose at it's connection to the chimney

Please look at before and after and help me please

What is wrong with the plumbers I am getting from Sears??? They are independent plumbers/contractors for Sears

How do I find someone who can do it right? A big company????? I can't just open the phone book and guess

Please help with your expert knowledge.........I'm trying to learn

Thank you so much...I don't want to burn my place down over a shower...this Tybe B gets so hot to touch and I have no idea how hot it gets once it goes beyond my line of sight

 

[AcuraTech]

I'm no HVAC tech, but the foil tape connect looks pretty un-professional.

Not familiar with this site, but I've heard of it. May be worth a shot to see reviews and ask questions:

Angie's List

 

[tom slick]

can you hold your hand on it for a couple of seconds or does it burn immediately? being able to touch it for a couple seconds means its about 130-150 degrees.

 

[Gary Allan]

This is not going well for you.

 

[Blue_Goose]

No Gary not at all.....tech tahnks for the link!

Tom before with the 3" pipe I was able to touch it for a bit...now it isnt "quite" as hot as the single wall but it is HOT and no way in heck that the single wall should go on the outside of the T right???? I mean isnt the whole purpose of the Type B is so that hot gases can be run through it and it will be a lot cooler so you can run it through walls etc?


I am so depressed over this.......are there any competent plumbers out there?????????


I don't know if I should call these guys back or just say the heck with it and guess on another plumber.....Sears is getting a chargeback until this is resolved.......I paid for a "professional" installation and this is the 2nd plumber they have sent

 

[tom slick]

Got any connections in CE that could come take a look?

 

[Blue_Goose]

Originally Posted By: tom slick
Got any connections in CE that could come take a look?


I wish!!! No I am on my own. I don't know if I should just bypass Sears altgether and get a big professional outfit in here. Problem is I'm already on the hook for a grand with them...not paid yet but

 

[greenaccord02]

Get an oven thermometer and see just how hot it's getting. I doubt it's a real problem. I'm not saying you're being alarmist, but there's hot and then there's hot enough to start a fire hot.

 

[brianl703]

Looks like the moron didn't use a reducer fitting and now flue gasses are going between the two walls of the Type-B vent, which is why it's getting so hot.

 

[Blue_Goose]

Originally Posted By: brianl703
Looks like the moron didn't use a reducer fitting and now flue gasses are going between the two walls of the Type-B vent, which is why it's getting so hot.



Exactly so am I in danger of a hose fire with this setup? In essence he has turned it into a single wall pipe going up through my structure to the roof...

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: Blue_Goose
Originally Posted By: brianl703
Looks like the moron didn't use a reducer fitting and now flue gasses are going between the two walls of the Type-B vent, which is why it's getting so hot.



Exactly so am I in danger of a hose fire with this setup? In essence he has turned it into a single wall pipe going up through my structure to the roof...


I agree with Brian here.

No reducer and the heat is going everywhere.

Can it catch on fire? Doubt it but the thing is let's get it installed CORRECTLY!

So, I'd call Sears and say this is how it is going to happen. You either get someone out here with the CORRECT tools, parts and a brain or I'm going to get someone out and all you will get is the price of the water heater paid.

The tape is a joke. If they wanted to use it AFTER the CORRECT parts were installed fine, but what I'm seeing is not right.

But I'm thinking that you are ok while you get someone in there to do it right.

Take a few photos of the whole install and post them here Goose. Also keep them just in case you need some ammo down the line.

Take care, bill

 

[XCELERATIONRULES]

Stop worrying already.
He didn't replace the whole stack,mostly just tied into the existing one.
He used double walled pipe so you wouldn't get burned touching it.
If it bothers you looking at the tape,just remove it.
The new pipe has to burn off the oil's they use to prevent the pipe from rusting between manufacture and install.
If it were leaking you would be having headaches and other complaints by now.
The smell will go away,go have a darn drink!

 

[Bill in Utah]

Goose,

I just checked my type B and I can not touch it for more than a few secs while the heater is on. Mine is installed correctly so FYI...

And both the water heater and heater for the house have been installed for 11 years with no issues.

Take care, Bill

 

[Blue_Goose]

X- I'm not following you here...he used single wall pipe from the heater to the Tee...at the Tee he did crimp down the single wall but put it on the outside of the Tee instead of inside like the first pic shows...the first pic is with the original 3" vent pipe.


Do you disagree with Bill and Brian's assessment of the flue gases going up both walls when it should just be going up the inner one?

Oh thanks for the words on the pipe smells..that is what i though by wanted someone else to clarify


Thank you Bill..are you still in agreement that this pipe connection is wrong?

 

[JustinH]

If it makes you feel better, I'm 27 years old and there was pretty much no such thing as a carbon monoxide detector for home use until about 5 years ago.

I'm not dead yet, and I've slept in plenty of basements, probably with furnaces with leaking heat exchangers, and improperly vented hot water tanks.

I think that you need a reducer put there, then foil tape over the connections.

Also, a carbon monoxide detector on every floor of your house is a very good idea.

I just seen that Lowes is selling them for 18 dollars now, down from the 30 that they used to be for years.

I'll make a mental note not to hire sears to do anything in my home. Seems to be the bottom of the barrel.

They wanted to charge my father 400 dollars to fix a 250 dollar washing machine last month.

Next time, go for a vent free electric instant hot water tank

 

[labman]

Do you have a building inspection department? I am sure Sears doesn't want them on their backs. If they come out and find code violations, somebody is in trouble. Also there are independent inspectors that mostly inspect homes at the time of sale.

Even if you survive shoddy work, if you ever sell the house, you have to pay to bring it up to code.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: Blue_Goose



Thank you Bill..are you still in agreement that this pipe connection is wrong?


*IF* they are using the tape instead of a proper reducer then yes it needs to be correct IMO.

 

[XCELERATIONRULES]

You never want to reduce the flue size.
Some equipment just comes in a certain size and needs to be reduced.
most likely he bought equipment to match the flue available.
If you didn't pull a permit,don't try calling the building department,the fines are usually triple the original permit fees.
The double wall pipe is strictly for keeping the heat down,running through walls and other flammable surfaces.
Light a piece of incense and hold it to the flue to check your draft.
If the smoke travels up the flue easily,end of story.
The tape is just extra precaution to prevent leaks.
Where did you think duct tape came from?
The aluminum tape won't hurt anything.
I was an installer for 20+ years.

 

[brianl703]

Originally Posted By: XCELERATIONRULES

If you didn't pull a permit,don't try calling the building department,the fines are usually triple the original permit fees.


He didn't do the work, the contractor that does the work is responsible for getting the building permit.

I suggest that he does call the building department and have this shoddy work looked at..and make sure they know what contractor did it.

 

[brianl703]

Originally Posted By: Blue_Goose
Originally Posted By: brianl703
Looks like the moron didn't use a reducer fitting and now flue gasses are going between the two walls of the Type-B vent, which is why it's getting so hot.



Exactly so am I in danger of a hose fire with this setup? In essence he has turned it into a single wall pipe going up through my structure to the roof...


I don't know if you are in danger of a house fire, but it defeats the purpose of Type B vent to screw it up this way.