Need some help with brakes

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Please help me answer my questions, thanks:

1) Resurface OEM rotors or buy cheap AutoZone rotors (if available)?

2) Do cheap AutoZone rotors have the same service life as OEM replacements?

3) Are Brembo "blanks" worth it?

4) Should I even bother resurfacing rotors or if everything "seems OK," leave it alone? Will "brake feel"/smoothness be affected if I do not resurface?

5) Do all brake pads squeal?

6) Is it a must to use anti-squeal grease on the pad backings to prevent squealing with every brake job? (What methods do you guys use to stop break squeal?)
 
Ans:

1) If your rotor(s) experienced warpage, don't bother re-cutting (or trueing) them down. The metallurgy does not retain any ability to keep the warpage under control and when the disc warps after so many thermal cycling, it's due for a change with freshly casted rotors.

2)Most likely, quality Chinese cast rotors/drums are fairly close to that of many OE components in terms of quality and reliability (esp. domestics).

3)I've used Brembos on all my Mazdas and IMHO they worth it. Their foundry in Italy cast good rotors.

4)you should as yourself the following questions:

-when was the last time you have your rotors replaced? (if the answer is >3~5yrs, move on to the next Q)
-are you experiencing pulsation or light screetching when braking, exp. high speed braking (pulsation) and even after numerous re-lubing the brake calipers, putting on dabs of anti-squeal compound and try different brands of brake pads and also install squeal shims, yet the light "screetch" comes back during light/intial braking, etc.

-Are you having recurrences of warpage (pulsation) of rotors in a couple of hundred miles after machining (still within specs.) with functional calipers and new pads? If yes, move on to the next one.

-Have you experienced reddish rotor surface or blueish colour due to seized calipers causing overheating of rotor?

If the answer is yes, and/or all of the above, your rotor is due for a replacement.

5) not all brake pads squeal. Some semi-metallics are more quiet than others. Not all semi-metallics are created equal BTW and some car manufacturers actually released service bulletin to dealerships specifying aftermarket pads to overcome factory pad's squeal (material too hard).

6) IMHO not necessarily. Over the decades of servicing front brakes I came to the following conclusions:

a)-make sure that your rotor is true and if you are to re-surface it, use the "fine cut" to give it a better texture for friction materials to seat.

b)-make sure that your caliper and brake pistons are sliding freely w/o binding. If your caliper and/or piston isn't sliding freely, STOP! Investigate and/ service/replace the faulty components before you proceed to the next step.

c)-keep the brake rotor and pad mating surface clean and free from contaminants such as grease, brake fluid, etc. Always double-wash down the rotor surface with brake cleaner spray before you install it.

d)- carefully (sparingly) lubricate the brake pad metal backing retaining tangs with high temp antiseize compound before installation. Also: if your factory brake pad setup comes with anti-squeal shims, ALWAYS install one when you replace the brake pads with new/aftermarket ones. Those shims are there for a big reason and you do not need to use/add grease/compound to damp the squeal if you have the shims on them.

d)-carefully break in the pads and rotor by not letting the rotor overheats due to excessive high speed stops for this may glaze the rotor surface causing improper break-ins. Always give your newly serviced brake systems to "blend" in by giving the rotor sufficient time to cool (drive your car).

That's it!
 
Whever I replace brake pads, I've found the best thing to do is use the cheaper, softer pads. There has never been a squealing issue with these from my 25+ years of experience and they hold up just fine for everyday use. Also, it's best to have your rotors trued up by a good machine shop or parts store. No "record cuts," meaning there shouldn't be any deep grooves in the machined rotors caused by turning them too fast. This will help your pads seat in.
 
I would like to expand on Quest 6.d)(1), in answering your question 6): Using anti-squeal compound or not depends on if the manufacturer requires it.
 
Thanks Tosh/bdcardinal. I know that Honda requires the grease.

1. ya i either use NAPA Syl-Glide or CRC Synthetic Brake Caliper lubricant(its green). i use them on the back of the pads and on the sides of the pads where they contact the caliper. also use them on any moving slides. all fasteners get installed dry, no loctite, and torqued.

2. generally i am completely against turning brake rotors. my feeling is that if they got warped at thickness X, then machining .020" or more off of them will cause them to warp easier. if a rotor is not warped i will generally do a very slight cut, maybe take off .004-.006" total or else just leave them. i much prefer to install new rotors, especially on setups where the bearings ride inside the hub and the hub and rotor are all 1 piece.
when i do turn rotors, i either use a special 120grit brake rotor hone and then wipe with a wet then dry paper towel, or else a 1000 grit sandpaper scrubbed hard on the rotor to create the effect of a non directional finish and then clean off.

On my cars i do pads and rotors at the same time. when i change the rotors, i put anti-seize on the hubface to prevent sticking.
3. the current pads on my mustang are Galpher front and Varga rear. they were the pads that came with the calipers, i have a Brembo 4 piston front and 04 cobra rear setup. i have a set of Hawk HPS pads waiting to go int that i want to try out. i might end up using those for street and getting a Carbotech or Porterfield for a track pad. i also am installing brake cooling ducts, as i somehow warped my front rotors the last time i went to the track.

i also have a 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis. i went cheap the last time i did brake work and got the cheapo Satisfied pads from tire rack. they stop well, however they squeal louder than my front mustang brakes after a hotlap session. when i do brakes again on that car i plan on getting Brembo black rotors from tirerack and either CarQuest Gold pads or Ford OEM pads.

for rotors i much prefer the Brembo blanks as they have a very high quality. the Centric brand is what one of our suppliers from wor uses and they seem to work well. we use Wagner ThermoQuiet as our in stock brake parts and i hate them. their only redeeeming value is that their pads do not use the squeal shims, they have extra material in the backing plate that take up space. they are ok on most cars, but i have had random comebacks for noise that only an OEM pad or a CarQuest gold pad will fix.

on my mustang i generally dont mind the noise, its my daily driver and i would rather have hard grip with little fade. i dont mind the dust either cause i have wheels that are very easy to clean. also that car has a Bassani offroad X pipe, no cats, so its very loud and that muffles most of the suspension and brake noise, i have coilovers. plus i want a pad that will last a 30minute hotlap session with little to no fade. with the setup i have now i was one of 3 cars in my rungroup that could go the whole session without fade, one was a 2000 Cobra R with the same setup i have(OEM on that car) and the other was a 2003 cobra with a Willwood 6piston front, 4 piston rear setup with full cooling ducting.

on the grand marquis, the noise is #@$%! me off, so thats why i am leaning towards the carquest or maybe akebono. i generally avoid autozone/kragen/pep boys for brake parts because i have seen very poor quality in some of their stuff.

for brake fluid, both of the cars get Valvoline Syntec DOT3/4. ive been impressed by the fluid and would really only consider that or Castrol GTLMA. i have a thing against mailordering fluids. both cars have speed bleeders and get a flush every year. the mustang gets a caliper flush after a track day.
 
this the answer i gave critic last night. im an ASE certified technician in Brakes, Suspension/Steering, Electrical, Engine Repair and Engine Performance.
 
Quote:


Also: if your factory brake pad setup comes with anti-squeal shims, ALWAYS install one when you replace the brake pads with new/aftermarket ones. Those shims are there for a big reason and you do not need to use/add grease/compound to damp the squeal if you have the shims on them.




Quote:


I know that Honda requires the grease.




I just wanted to clarify that while we all know what you're talking about, anti-squeal compound is NOT grease. It's more like caulk that needs to dry until tacky before installation.
And Hondas usually have shims, and they also require anti-squeal compound as well.
 
IMo when you have a moving part (rotor)that rubs on a stationary part (brake pad) there probly will be some noise.

Some people freak when they hear the slightest brake noise and chase their tail trying to stop what can't be stopped.
 
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