Tomorrow I plan on putting Advance Rotors and their Wearever PlatinumPremium Ceramic Brake Pads. Here is where I need guidance. I have done brakes on my 99 Saturn SL2 since buying it over 9 years ago. I learned to replace brakes on that car. Started with Duralast Rotors and Duralast Gold pads. Before installing third set of DG pads, I installed Centric rotors from Rock Auto. Started getting heavy pulsing, especially at highway speed. Then installed Raybestos Rotors and Cermic pads from Rock Auto. The problem returned after 5,000 miles are so. I read all the info available on brakes I could find. I decided to get NAPA's best rotors. I am thinking it is a rotor problem...or maybe a runnout problem. I cleaned hubs. Installed new guide and lock pins and new rubber inserts. Bought a dial indicator to measure runnout. That did not go so well so I spent more time cleaning small areas of rust on hubs. Reinstalled Raybestos pads with these rotors. Used Sly-Glyde for pins. Things were going good until recently. For 5,0000 miles no problem. I had new tires installed about 1,2000 miles ago. Read article last night about lug nut torque. I retorqued lugs last night. A few of them were extra tight. I could hear right brake and rotor had a high spot that went away after braking a few times. Vibration was reduced 50% or so after re-torque lugs. Looked at my service records. The heavy vibration tended to start 1000 to 2000 miles after tires were rotated or replaced. I called the shop this morning. They told me they use torque bars. How accurate are they? I remember going to another shop of same parent company and they stripped two lug nuts on a previous car. My plan is to bring torque wrench and breaker bar every time I have tire service. I am sure they will enjoy it when I check the torque in the parking lot. Guess I will not know if that is the problem until I try it consistently. Do you have recommendations on my brake job tomorrow? Due to my work schedule I rarely have a full day off and use my car at work. Otherwise I would have more of a wait and see attitude. I was going to take rotors back to Napa and get them changed out so I will be ready if the pulsation returns. Suggestions welcome. This has been a learning process. Rear brakes adjust manually 2,000 miles or so ago....
Need rotor/brake job advice
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You did not mention the calipers? Have these been replaced or are they in good condition, many braking problems can be attributed to worn calipers/caliper parts. Just a thought , but yes always use a torque wrench since torque sticks are not super accurate.
Calipers are original. I should of replaced the right one when I did rear cylinders. The right was having problems with sticking. Lubed guide and lock pins tended to eliminate issue. Car has 205,000 miles and a lot of city driving. I did change brake fluid when rear cylinders done.
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Son, you see that key on the right-hand side of your keyboard, the one marked with "Enter", "Return", or simply a leftward-pointing arrow? You really should learn what it's for.
Son, you see that key on the right-hand side of your keyboard, the one marked with "Enter", "Return", or simply a leftward-pointing arrow? You really should learn what it's for.
Originally Posted By: Tegger
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Son, you see that key on the right-hand side of your keyboard, the one marked with "Enter", "Return", or simply a leftward-pointing arrow? You really should learn what it's for.
I am using a Microsoft keyboard with some keys dying. Just gave up my working keyboard to the lady of the household. My time is limited. Guess I was in a too much of a hurry. I have tonight to become a brake expert.
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipisicing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum....
Son, you see that key on the right-hand side of your keyboard, the one marked with "Enter", "Return", or simply a leftward-pointing arrow? You really should learn what it's for.
I am using a Microsoft keyboard with some keys dying. Just gave up my working keyboard to the lady of the household. My time is limited. Guess I was in a too much of a hurry. I have tonight to become a brake expert.
Originally Posted By: Thax
You did not mention the calipers? Have these been replaced or are they in good condition, many braking problems can be attributed to worn calipers/caliper parts. Just a thought , but yes always use a torque wrench since torque sticks are not super accurate.
I think since I am this far in I sould replace the calipers. Will I need to bleed the whole system? I only had a one man bleader when replacing wheel cylinders. I followed the proper sequence before. I have ABS. I just did not bleed ABS. Brake pedal is firm.
You did not mention the calipers? Have these been replaced or are they in good condition, many braking problems can be attributed to worn calipers/caliper parts. Just a thought , but yes always use a torque wrench since torque sticks are not super accurate.
I think since I am this far in I sould replace the calipers. Will I need to bleed the whole system? I only had a one man bleader when replacing wheel cylinders. I followed the proper sequence before. I have ABS. I just did not bleed ABS. Brake pedal is firm.
Originally Posted By: Astro14
Tegger - how does posting Latin gibberish help him with either his brakes or his writing?
It doesn't help with anything; it just illustrates what his writing looks like to me. I can't be bothered to wade through such lousy writing.
Tegger - how does posting Latin gibberish help him with either his brakes or his writing?
It doesn't help with anything; it just illustrates what his writing looks like to me. I can't be bothered to wade through such lousy writing.
I have had the same problems as you on a grand am went thru 2 sets of cheap rotors. bought napa premium and they warrant them out twice and ceramic pads so i would go that way or anywhere else that warrantys this stuff. The fact is all these parts are made in china out of inferior metal.Add that to the fact that 70% of the braking is on the front brakes.I babied my car and was putting rotors on it every 3 oil changes at 2500 miles just [censored] design and cheap parts.Unless you pay high dollar for aftermarket rotors or look into pricey raybestos or satisfied rotors not much you an do.
The counter person at Advance that helped me when getting my rotors said that newer rotors are thinner. He said one panic stop and they are warped. The person I talked to at the tire store asked if I had been doing panic stops. It seems like there are a lot of variables. Will rebuilt calipers help or is it more a rotors getting less durable problem?
Originally Posted By: AVB
You can get AC Delco OES rotors on amazon for about $55 each.
I only have tomorrow to do the brake job. I did not purchase online since it is more of a hassle if rotors do have problems. I can have Advance rotors replaced two times for free under warranty. Napa rotors are lifetime ones.
You can get AC Delco OES rotors on amazon for about $55 each.
I only have tomorrow to do the brake job. I did not purchase online since it is more of a hassle if rotors do have problems. I can have Advance rotors replaced two times for free under warranty. Napa rotors are lifetime ones.
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Originally Posted By: MONKEYMAN
Will rebuilt calipers help or is it more a rotors getting less durable problem?
You're pressed for time as it is, don't make more work for yourself randomly changing out parts.
I would use the dial indicator to first measure runout on the old rotors and the hub, then on the newly installed rotors. If within spec write down the numbers, button everything up and see what happens. If the pulse returns check runout again.
Some vehicles are known for warping rotors.
Will rebuilt calipers help or is it more a rotors getting less durable problem?
You're pressed for time as it is, don't make more work for yourself randomly changing out parts.
I would use the dial indicator to first measure runout on the old rotors and the hub, then on the newly installed rotors. If within spec write down the numbers, button everything up and see what happens. If the pulse returns check runout again.
Some vehicles are known for warping rotors.
Thanks Rock. I did get the holder for the dial indicator so I should be able to do a better job of accurately measuring run out. Harbor Freight is in the same parking lot as Advance. I agree with not doing too much at one time. Where is the best place to measure runout on the hub and rotors? Last time I had problems turning the hub. I have an automatic. Do I need to put the transmission selector in neutral? Do I turn the opposite tire a little, then get measurements?
Originally Posted By: MONKEYMAN
Thanks Rock. Where is the best place to measure runout on the hub and rotors? Last time I had problems turning the hub. I have an automatic. Do I need to put the transmission selector in neutral? Do I turn the opposite tire a little, then get measurements?
Just find a clean area on the outboard face of the hub, same for the rotors, which should be lightly torqued down.
You may need a helper to rotate the wheel, try turning the opposite side wheel with the trans in neutral.
Another option is to get the rotors resurfaced as installed on the vehicle, but you'd have to find a shop with the proper equipment.
Thanks Rock. Where is the best place to measure runout on the hub and rotors? Last time I had problems turning the hub. I have an automatic. Do I need to put the transmission selector in neutral? Do I turn the opposite tire a little, then get measurements?
Just find a clean area on the outboard face of the hub, same for the rotors, which should be lightly torqued down.
You may need a helper to rotate the wheel, try turning the opposite side wheel with the trans in neutral.
Another option is to get the rotors resurfaced as installed on the vehicle, but you'd have to find a shop with the proper equipment.
I have drums on rear. I do not have a helper, so I will need to do my best by myself. I will try to do that first thing tomorrow and post readings. I found a nice Lexus technical article that illustrated the general concept. Thanks for the guidance.
Originally Posted By: Tegger
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Son, you see that key on the right-hand side of your keyboard, the one marked with "Enter", "Return", or simply a leftward-pointing arrow? You really should learn what it's for.
Why can't I stop trying to sing this gibberish to the tune of El Barquito?
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipisicing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum....
Son, you see that key on the right-hand side of your keyboard, the one marked with "Enter", "Return", or simply a leftward-pointing arrow? You really should learn what it's for.
Why can't I stop trying to sing this gibberish to the tune of El Barquito?
Originally Posted By: Rock_Hudstone
Another option is to get the rotors resurfaced as installed on the vehicle, but you'd have to find a shop with the proper equipment.
I found a Firestone tire store with the equipment. It was around $80 for front rotors being turned on my car. The person I talked to was not very positive and made me not want to pursue that option.
The Lexus article describes phase matching the rotor to hub. With a dial indicator I should be able to get the best lateral readings before putting pads on (so I am hoping).
Another option is to get the rotors resurfaced as installed on the vehicle, but you'd have to find a shop with the proper equipment.
I found a Firestone tire store with the equipment. It was around $80 for front rotors being turned on my car. The person I talked to was not very positive and made me not want to pursue that option.
The Lexus article describes phase matching the rotor to hub. With a dial indicator I should be able to get the best lateral readings before putting pads on (so I am hoping).
Try this: When you put the rotors and wheel assembly on tighten to 15 ft lbs of torque in a star pattern. Then loosen the bolts and re-tighten to factory spec. Also, clean the hub face with a cup brush/drill until smooth and shiny. Be sure to bed in new pads with 25 30mph to 5mph gradual slow downs.
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Originally Posted By: Doog
Try this: When you put the rotors and wheel assembly on tighten to 15 ft lbs of torque in a star pattern. Then loosen the bolts and re-tighten to factory spec. Also, clean the hub face with a cup brush/drill until smooth and shiny. Be sure to bed in new pads with 25 30mph to 5mph gradual slow downs.
Thanks for tip on torque at 15 lbs, etc. At Harbor Freight they had a narrow tool to put on my drill with various abrasive pads I bought. Reminded me of a GM hub cleaning tool material. It is small enough to get into tight places. There is not a lot of rust, but I will take off the little remaining areas that may cause runout.
You open the brake pad box and they have the 20/30 rule described on the flap. Twenty stops at 30 mph or less with no hard stops.
Try this: When you put the rotors and wheel assembly on tighten to 15 ft lbs of torque in a star pattern. Then loosen the bolts and re-tighten to factory spec. Also, clean the hub face with a cup brush/drill until smooth and shiny. Be sure to bed in new pads with 25 30mph to 5mph gradual slow downs.
Thanks for tip on torque at 15 lbs, etc. At Harbor Freight they had a narrow tool to put on my drill with various abrasive pads I bought. Reminded me of a GM hub cleaning tool material. It is small enough to get into tight places. There is not a lot of rust, but I will take off the little remaining areas that may cause runout.
You open the brake pad box and they have the 20/30 rule described on the flap. Twenty stops at 30 mph or less with no hard stops.
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