Need help removing connector from oil pressure sensor - Pentastar V6 PUG - replacing oil filter housing

[Vitamin Yoda]

I'm performing an oil filter housing reliability upgrade on a Pentastar V6 PUG engine. We have two of these. The other one actually started leaking coolant at 6,000 miles. I replaced it with a Dorman 926-959 aluminum cooler. The job went relatively smoothly, though it took a little while because I went extra slow to avoid breaking anything. I used Mopar gaskets for the cooler housing, the Dorman gaskets for the oil cooler (the two that are between the housing and the cooler), and Fel-Pro intake gaskets.

The first time I had to remove the oil pressure sensor connector, it gave me a hard time as well. However, I got some rubber gloves on, put the connector in the open position, and firmly pressed on it with my thumb while also slightly moving my thumb upward. And it popped off.

This time around, that didn't work. As you can see in the pictures, the connector is in the open position. I also soaked it a couple of times with silicone lubricant, but that didn't seem to help either. If anyone has any ideas on how to remove this connector, please let me know. I would be very grateful for any help. I just don't want to break the thing.

Apparently Hirschman Automotive makes these connectors, and this one is called "3way 1.2 SealStar FA Connector". I'm not sure if this info is of any use. I couldn't find any info from them on how to disconnect these. It's funny and sad that something so apparently simple can sometimes turn into a headache.

Thank you.

 

[Soft Cars]

Good picture.

Take a right angle pick and insert it under the top of the second window. Pull outwards until it clears the white tang.

Alternatively, insert a screwdriver blade through the second window and push the white tang inwards until it clears the window.

 

[Trav]

Pull the white pin back while pushing down in the square part with a small screwdriver.

 

[The Critic]

Push inward on the connector while performing the above steps, then pull out.

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

I appreciate everyone's suggestions. I got it off on Friday, and here is how I did it.

1. I practiced on a coil pack connector. Then I realized that what's preventing me to release the connector is the protecting sleeve right above the connector. Because of it, it's very hard to push down on the white plastic. So I took a plastic tool and lifted the black locking tongue (or whatever it's called), while also pushing on the white tab above the connector. Pretty easy actually.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
2. Then I proceeded to the oil sensor connector and did the same:
   
   
   
   
   
3. Now, the only problem is that on the new cooler the oil pressure sensor landed the connector unlocking tab precisely downward. You're supposed to tighten it to 15 ft-lb, and I installed a brand new Dorman oil pressure sensor just for good measure:
   
   
   
   
   
4. Cleaned up all the injectors, installed new MAHLE O-Rings:
   
   
   
   PSA: Fel-Pro also sells these O-Rings in Brown/Black. However, they shifted production for them to China, and they messed it up, as they shipped several batches of all black O-Rings nationwide that only work on the upper part of the injectors.

Question for you guys:

I dropped one of the injectors from about 6 inches on my wooden table sideways, and it bounced into my lap. It slipped out of my gloved hand because I used silicone to clean the plastic parts. I couldn't detect any physical damage, and the tip and top are fine. Anything I should be worried about?
Thank you!

 

[GMBoy]

I think you did good job here. I've done several of these and the only concern I have is that you used a Dorman sensor. You will be replacing that in the near future.

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

I think you did good job here. I've done several of these and the only concern I have is that you used a Dorman sensor. You will be replacing that in the near future.

Thank you. Got a question for you: what's the torque spec you used for the lower intake manifold on the V6 PUG? I used 106 inch pounds, and went slowly in 36-53-80-93-106 increments, then went a few times slowly at 106 until I couldn't fill a bolt move. Then I remembered that on the Jeep I did 80 inch pounds because that's what Tech Authority said cor the PUG. Should I be woried? I don't want to mess something up. Thank you.

 

[GMBoy]

Thank you. Got a question for you: what's the torque spec you used for the lower intake manifold on the V6 PUG? I used 106 inch pounds, and went slowly in 36-53-80-93-106 increments, then went a few times slowly at 106 until I couldn't fill a bolt move. Then I remembered that on the Jeep I did 80 inch pounds because that's what Tech Authority said cor the PUG. Should I be woried? I don't want to mess something up. Thank you.

Prodemand lists lower intake at 12NM which is 106IP so you are good!

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

Prodemand lists lower intake at 12NM which is 106IP so you are good!

Thank you so much. Never in my life have I been so on the edge of my seat over an extra 26 inch-pounds, tightened in aluminum-alloy threads. no less.

I can't stop but wonder why Tech Authority is all over the place. With the 3.6L VVT (2nd gen I believe), they have either 71 inch-lb or 106 inch-lb. If it's a bigger vehicle like a Pro Master, Durango, or Jeep, it's 106 in-lb, if it's a sedan or coupe, it's 71 in-lb. But it's the same engine.

For the PUG they have 80 in-lb listed no matter the vehicle, except for the newer RAM trucks. They want 10nm (89 in-lb) for the lower manifold on those, and get this, 80 in-lb for the upper. It's like they either can't make up their mind, or their specs is dictated by how fragile the plastic is?! I'm at a loss.

Also, about the oil sensor: Normally I only get OEM, however, I didn't have one available near me. I checked out the Dorman unit, and sure enough, it's sourced at the same place in Mexico as the OEM. So I went for Dorman. It even costs the same, so no savings there.

 

[The Critic]

I checked out the Dorman unit, and sure enough, it's sourced at the same place in Mexico as the OEM.

You don't know this for a fact - it could be a different vendor, or heck, the same vendor selling seconds to the aftermarket.

Regardless, congratulations on the potential reliability downgrade.

 

[MattPersman]

With as fussy as those sensors are I would only go oe. Not that it helps now but I have replaced nearly new aftermarket ones quite frequently

Shops using customers good money on a bad repair

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

Well, this is how a 5.7 HEMI Throttle Body installed on a Pentastar V6 PUG engine looks like:

Yes, I installed the Doorman Aluminum Oil Filter Housing, except for the orange cap. I opted for a black Dorman oil filter housing cap.

I'd like to thank everyone who chimed in, especially @GMBoy, who's been extremely helpful and kind to me.

This is the end result, with the K&N CAI installed. I also use an air filter wrap over the air filter to catch the bigger debris, insects, etc.

 

[GMBoy]

Well, this is how a 5.7 HEMI Throttle Body installed on a Pentastar V6 PUG engine looks like:

View attachment 200115

Yes, I installed the Doorman Aluminum Oil Filter Housing, except for the orange cap. I opted for a black Dorman oil filter housing cap.

I'd like to thank everyone who chimed in, especially @GMBoy, who's been extremely helpful and kind to me.

This is the end result, with the K&N CAI installed. I also use an air filter wrap over the air filter to catch the bigger debris, insects, etc.

View attachment 200117

View attachment 200118

View attachment 200119

You are so welcome! It was a pleasure chatting with you and I have NEVER seen a sharper Pentastar!! Good luck with everything and you are always welcome to hit me up again if you need to!

 

[jdgooldy1980]

2011 dodge durango 3.6. Just changed my oil cooler and now I am getting an error code of P06DD. Has anyone else experienced this and know what the fix could be. I thought it might be the new oil pressure sensor so I put my old senosr back in and the code comes back on after a few minutes. Any help greatly appreciated.

 

[t1snwrbrdr12]

2011 dodge durango 3.6. Just changed my oil cooler and now I am getting an error code of P06DD. Has anyone else experienced this and know what the fix could be. I thought it might be the new oil pressure sensor so I put my old senosr back in and the code comes back on after a few minutes. Any help greatly appreciated.

The oil pumps fail quite often

 

[jdgooldy1980]

The oil pumps fail quite often

I also heard it could be the none mopar filter so I went to change the filter and when I pulled the old one out the stem inside that holds the oil filter came shooting out. I think I might have to replace the oil cooler again, good thing it had a lifetime warranty on it.

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

2011 dodge durango 3.6. Just changed my oil cooler and now I am getting an error code of P06DD. Has anyone else experienced this and know what the fix could be. I thought it might be the new oil pressure sensor so I put my old senosr back in and the code comes back on after a few minutes. Any help greatly appreciated.

The solenoid inside the oil pump might have failed. Before starting taking things apart, I would try something to clean it. They usually get varnished up. Get a quart of HPL Engine Cleaner and five quarts of whatever motor oil and run it for a couple of thousand miles.

HPL Engine Cleaner (get the EC30): https://www.advlubrication.com/collections/automotive-lubricants/products/engine-cleaner

It's a fully formulated motor oil using a Heavy Duty additive package and esters as the base oil. Very good stuff.