Need a Substitute for Castrol 5w-30LL

[Propflux01]

Why do people consider ACEA C3 and ILSAC oils to be the same? They both might be 5w30 but they’re very different.

I will never understand the thickies who feel they need thicker oil to go get a jug of milk. Your engine is still going to last 200k+ with the original grade while the rest of the vehicle is rusting out all around it.

Whos running a thicker oil?

 

[Jimmy_Russells]

Whos running a thicker oil?

You just proved my point. The oil the OP is using is significantly thicker than a regular API 5w30.

 

[RooflessVW]

You just proved my point. The oil the OP is using is significantly thicker than a regular API 5w30.

Significantly? Not really. They are the still the same grade.

 

[Jimmy_Russells]

Significantly? Not really. They are the still the same grade.

Minimum 3.5 hths for C3 vs ~3.1 for API. The C3 is borderline 40 grade, and they are also tested to stay in grade while API can slip a grade and still pass.

 

[SammyChevelleTypeS3]

My NAPA has it for $32 a gallon.

If you think about the cost of ordering a specialty oil & then add the shipping costs, that NAPA $32 gallon of oil does not sound bad at all.

 

[SammyChevelleTypeS3]

You realize people here use Amsoil and other boutique oils for their NA 1982 Chevy van, too, right? I've done what I feel is my own research on this site, from its members and such, and settled on the Castrol LL. Its what I wanted, and now I need an equivalent. I don't care what Ford specs, and I am asking simply for a substitute for what I have been using. Nothing more.

I like your choice of Castol brand. been reading a lot about Castrol company and their products....

 

[edyvw]

Minimum 3.5 hths for C3 vs ~3.1 for API. The C3 is borderline 40 grade, and they are also tested to stay in grade while API can slip a grade and still pass.

And they have more stringent requirements and you get that for the same price. So tell me, why would you use a turbo engine inferior oil that is just a bit thinner, but has lower requirements, for the same price? I do not get argument!

 

[ZedzAmg]

And what makes you think the Castrol is giving you “the best protection.” Protection from what? Blackstone says there’s no significant difference between any brand of oils that hold certs when it comes to wear.

Turbo? You realize Ford specs syn blend for their mustang/f-150 turbos and even their v8s.

Because blackstone ALWAYS has 100% accuracy in their tests...... Im gonna put the Ravenol away and run the tub of mystery conventional

 

[Jimmy_Russells]

And they have more stringent requirements and you get that for the same price. So tell me, why would you use a turbo engine inferior oil that is just a bit thinner, but has lower requirements, for the same price? I do not get argument!

For the same reason I wouldn’t use a 40 or 50 grade. It’s just not necessary unless you drive like a madman.

 

[edyvw]

For the same reason I wouldn’t use a 40 or 50 grade. It’s just not necessary unless you drive like a madman.

First of all you are seriously projecting here. No one said 50 or 40. So let's stick what he actually wants.
Second, AGAIN, the point is not thickness but a slew of other tougher requirements (wear, deposits etc.). In the end MB229.52 has the toughest requirements in the industry including LSPI test. And your argument is nope, I chose less of oil just because.

 

[R1jake]

Again, why does he need those approvals? Hyundai requires vw spec? Lol

Because it’s what makes him feel warm and fuzzy. I totally get it and run mobile 1 0w40 in my 94 Ford E150 5.8L which by the way has the MB 229 spec.
Op I seriously would give it a try in your Hyundai.

 

[Jimmy_Russells]

First of all you are seriously projecting here. No one said 50 or 40. So let's stick what he actually wants.
Second, AGAIN, the point is not thickness but a slew of other tougher requirements (wear, deposits etc.). In the end MB229.52 has the toughest requirements in the industry including LSPI test. And your argument is nope, I chose less of oil just because.

Not going to get into it with you edy. You know I use C3 in my own car because it calls for it. We both know his car will last 200k+ with dealer swill providing he maintains it properly.

I mean really the gist of what you’re saying is to just use A3/B4 or C3 oils in everything that calls for 30 grade (perhaps even 20 grade also). I think that is unnecessary but whatever makes the vehicle owner sleep better.

 

[R1jake]

Think about it… planned obsolescence. How else would a company survive? Is that “idea” such a hard concept to follow? if it weren’t, we’d have no reason to buy new vehicles. Vehicles are built with a specific lifetime of use. Just like most everything else we buy. It’s economics 101. Most of us here are on this forum to discuss ways of getting past this and extending the service lives if our equipment. If you don’t understand this concept then I would suggest you simply stick with the oil at the local EZ Mart gas-n-go, and drive on. the rest of us here will continue to do our research and settle on what suits us.

Amen to that, I give the euro 0w40 a try, it seems I remember reading it’s on the thin side of the 40w.

 

[R1jake]

Why do people consider ACEA C3 and ILSAC/API oils to be the same? They both might be 5w30 but they’re very different.

I will never understand the thickies who feel they need thicker oil to go get a jug of milk. Your engine is still going to last 200k+ with the original grade while the rest of the vehicle is rusting out all around it.

I spend just as much time preventing rust. Wool wax has kept my vehicles rust free right in the northern Ky area. They throw so much salt around here. Both of my vehicles are 1990 and 1994 rust free Toyota 4x4 and ford e150.

 

[Propflux01]

You just proved my point. The oil the OP is using is significantly thicker than a regular API 5w30.

I don't think so... The Castrol 5w-30 LL is well within the CST of a 30grade.

 

[Propflux01]

For the same reason I wouldn’t use a 40 or 50 grade. It’s just not necessary unless you drive like a madman.

5w-30 is what the engine calls for. There is no 40 or 50 grade even considered, and again, the Castrol LL is within the 30 grade CST.

 

[RooflessVW]

Minimum 3.5 hths for C3 vs ~3.1 for API. The C3 is borderline 40 grade. Pennzoil Platinum for example is only 9.8 @ 100 while C3 is more like 12.

Yeah so both are a 30 grade. Borderline ≠ is.

 

[Jimmy_Russells]

5w-30 is what the engine calls for. There is no 40 or 50 grade even considered, and again, the Castrol LL is within the 30 grade CST.

Ok look. You are on an oil forum, if you do not understand the difference between API grade 30 and C3 30, please do a bit more research. The differences in viscosity also only grow as the oil accumulates mileage.

It’s like saying Mobil 1 0w40 and Redline 5w40 are the same 40 grade. They are, but they are also quite different.

Very simplified, C3 is more robust at the expense of added cost (usually) and fuel mileage. The question is whether or not your vehicle and the way you drive it needs that extra robustness. If it makes you sleep better then go ahead and use it. All I’m saying is for the very vast majority of people it makes no difference. If it did, Hyundai would have recommended a more robust oil.

 

[dlundblad]

If you think about the cost of ordering a specialty oil & then add the shipping costs, that NAPA $32 gallon of oil does not sound bad at all.

Not at all. It’d be nice if it was priced similarly to the other offerings, but oh well.

Its a good warranty “loophole” oil if you want a more robust oil, but have to follow the manual.

 

[Propflux01]

Ok look. You are on an oil forum, if you do not understand the difference between API grade 30 and C3 30, please do a bit more research. The differences in viscosity also only grow as the oil accumulates mileage.

It’s like saying Mobil 1 0w40 and Redline 5w40 are the same 40 grade. They are, but they are also quite different.

Very simplified, C3 is more robust at the expense of added cost (usually) and fuel mileage. The question is whether or not your vehicle and the way you drive it needs that extra robustness. If it makes you sleep better then go ahead and use it. All I’m saying is for the very vast majority of people it makes no difference. If it did, Hyundai would have recommended a more robust oil.

I am quite aware of what forum I am on, and have been on here for 21+ years. I've read a few articles...

Irregardless of the oil thickening as you state, it still does not exceed the 30 grade rating. Key up on the 'more robust' part. You can also go back and read my earlier post on built in obsolescence. The end result being, I asked for an equivalent to what is getting harder to get, and more expensive. Not an argument as to why. I don't understand what is so hard for that to be understood.