My XD-3 experience (GM 3.1L V6)

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Ok guys. You may remember, in January of 2004, I dumped the Pennzoil that was used in my GM 3.1L V6 (1992) engine by its previous owner (I had just received the car), and installed Esso XD-3 0W-30 full synth. That was 55,000 km ago, and I haven't changed the oil since. I think some people even called me a lunatic here that I'd consider not using a more traditional interval, even with a synthetic.

A few weeks ago, I noticed that there was some gel-like material accumulating on my oil cap. I discovered it was coolant. Fine, GM 3.1's are notorious for bad lower intake gaskets, so I bought a gasket set, and went to work.

To my amazement, after 55,000km without an oil change, once the valve covers were off, they were shiny as new with a simple wiping of a rag. The 'sludge' that had formed was clear, the product of antifreeze mixing with the oil, but the oil itself had not formed an emulsion with the oil (as many others with the GM coolant leak have complained of). Since Esso claims on the datasheet for XD-3 "excellent performance in the presence of coolant", I was astonished that the deposits consisted solely of gelled antifreeze, and did not accumulate on any of the oiled machinery inside the engine.

I wish I had taken pictures (kinda not pleasant to get the digital camera out when your hands are all greasy), but basically:

1) XD-3 0W-30 full synth can easily run in excess of 55,000km / 4.5 years in a GM 3.1L V6. Without coolant leaks, a single oil change of XD-3 0W-30 probably would be good for at least twice that. (1mi = 1.6km)

2) If you do get a coolant leak, XD-3's claim that it performs extremely well in the presence of coolant may very well save your motor from damage. The only evidence of coolant in the oil accumulated on the covers to the valvetrain/pushrod gallery. Not on the dipstick, which means that the oil was able to reject most of the coolant.

This is a miracle product. It costs half as much as Mobil1, is made by a subsidiary of the ExxonMobil Corporation (Imperial Oil Canada), and can be used in both petrol and diesel engines.
 
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BTW, most of the use in the past 4.5 years was short trips. With the odd drive on the highway, hence, the lower km's than you'd expect.

Owners manual says change oil every 7500 and filter every 15k. I performed one filter change at approx. 30k km's, and always kept the oil level topped up.
 
Originally Posted By: pitzel
This is a miracle product.

Sounds good, but not quite miraculous.

Our '95 Olds 3.1 engine intake gasket failed at 160,000 miles, the engine ingested the entire contents of the coolant overflow tank and then some.
It was running Shell Rotella 15w-40 CJ-4 at the time.

Outside of similar gelling residue in the front valve cover area the engine internals and oil looked normal, all things considered.
Replaced the gasket, and it's running great.
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I'm not at all suprised. XD-3 is a very HD product, and we've seen UOA's on a similar engine (olympics vans) up to 40,000km. I've often thought that if you used a serious HD syn like XD-3, and just keep the level topped up, you could run an oil change indefinetly.

Remember, back in the early 1970's, Ray Potter ran early ester-based syn oil to 100k miles (160k km) in a 1960's carbed big-block, and the engine wasn't 'that dirty' - it wasn't spotless, but it was very clean for the day. With the advances in oil and engine systems since then, it should be a given that this kind of result could be repeated. Thanks for verifying this!
 
addyguy, wasn't around in the 1970s, so I don't 'remember' :).

NYSteve, I guess I could, but the UOA would just show bad Na at this point.

Rock_Hudstone, I've seen plenty pictures of the 3.1's on the Internet where the oil and the coolant had formed an emulsion, coating everything in the engine and the dipstick. I don't doubt that modern CJ-4 Rotella is good stuff.
 
I wasn't 'around' then either, I was referring to the oft-quoted Popular Science article from April 1976 on syn oils, thats all.

Did you re-fill the engine with XD-3 0W-30?

Good points you made about the gelled AF that does appear - I've seen engines run on dino that had bad IM leaks, and the oil that does come out is just like mud...must 'gunk up' a motor badly....
 
How much was added in top-ups over the 55,000 km? I've seen a ford Escort engine that went 45,000 km on petro canada conventional oil, just topping off, and it only had a thin layer of black in 50% of area visible under the oil cap.
 
3 quarts, but most of the oil that was lost was due to a leak (the leak being where the intake seals to the motors' internals -- darn GM 3.1 LIM's :(.

addyguy, I'm gonna run 500 miles on cheap Esso XD-3 15W-40 XD-3 (dino) HDEO, then refill with XD-3 0W-30. Hopefully I won't have to drain that for a long, long time, and hopefully not prematurely :).
 
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Originally Posted By: pitzel
Rock_Hudstone, I've seen plenty pictures of the 3.1's on the Internet where the oil and the coolant had formed an emulsion, coating everything in the engine and the dipstick. I don't doubt that modern CJ-4 Rotella is good stuff.

Granted I obviously caught this in time, although I suspect a smaller leak had been going on for a while because I had to add coolant now and then.
Had I let it go and kept adding coolant no motor oil would have saved it.

This is unscientific of course but my guess is the better HDEO oils probably buy a little extra time before the bearings get completely wiped out.
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Originally Posted By: pitzel
3 quarts, but most of the oil that was lost was due to a leak (the leak being where the intake seals to the motors' internals -- darn GM 3.1 LIM's :(.


My car has burned 1/2L of 0w20 after 11,000 km, and that's with very little leakage. 55000 km would have me adding about 3 qts as well. That's like a complete change every 73,000 km, or maybe like having no loss and going 37,000 km. Pretty good for an oil that's half the cost of Mobil 1 here.
 
Makes me feel a lot more comfortable extending the intervals on my mom's 3.1, we had the intake manifold gasket replaced already, around 50k miles. I've always changed the oil every 3,000 miles in her car (once I went 4k with MaxLife), but I have synthetic in it now and I'll run it past 5k this time around.
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A few other comments:

a) The magnetic drain plug was covered with extremely fine metal particles, but nothing alarming.. I think most users of magnetic drain plugs, whether they run a 3k interval, or 10k, or whatever, experience some metal shedding. The engine started the OCI at a relatively young life (100k km's exactly), and underwent a high number of cold starts (never plugged into a block heater), so I don't think the amount of filings was unusual. I mean, if you change the oil 12X less often than you would with a 3k interval, you're apt to find 12X the metal on the magnet-tipped drain plug.

b) Oil filters used were FRAM-brand, 2 in total. I tore open the FRAM filter at 30k km's that I removed, opened it up, and the filter material was all still intact (cardboard end-caps and all, I might add). So, no, Frams might have a maligned reputation here, but that's overdone, IMHO.

Other than that, filled with 15W-40 XD-3 HDEO yesterday, and the oil is still very clean today. The 0W-30 synth will go back in sometime late this summer/early fall, and hopefully stay in for at least another 4 years.

Amazing that a 100k mile engine can go 1/3rd of its life on the same oil, eh, with no sludge, or even internal engine deposits.
 
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What's the oil pressure like? Do you have a real oil pressure gauge?

Without a UOA, IMHO, it's a bit of a guess to state that the oil had lots of life left in it. Isn't that the entire point of oil analysis, to gauge the life expectancy/health of one's oil?
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
What's the oil pressure like? Do you have a real oil pressure gauge?


No I don't have any way of checking oil pressure.

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Without a UOA, IMHO, it's a bit of a guess to state that the oil had lots of life left in it. Isn't that the entire point of oil analysis, to gauge the life expectancy/health of one's oil?


Well I relied upon UOA work done by another forum participant (olympic) who runs the same oil in the same family of engines, and found wear metals to be negligible and well within limits after 40k miles or more. I don't have easy access to low-cost UOA (cheapest UOA I've seen was at least $60, and I no longer work in a position where I could sneak one in on my employer's dime).

I suppose if I was doing UOA all along, I would have been able to diagnose the coolant leak earlier. Maybe. The root cause of the coolant leak was inadequate torque on the lower intake manifold bolts -- a defect in GM's torque spec more than anything -- not failure of the gasket as is often seen in other 3.1 engines. Updated parts, and updated torque values were used in the reassembly.
 
It would be interesting to see what you have for oil pressure, but I'm sure you don't really want to be plumbing in a gauge and I definitely wouldn't blame you :D
 
There is actually an oil pressure sender on it....but its only use is to kill the engine in the event of an accident or serious loss of oil incident (no oil pressure = automatic engine shutdown).

GM, unfortunately, doesn't bring that sender out to the dashboard wiring harness (they used to...but too many idiots complained of fluctuating oil pressure, and demanded new oil pumps). So without an extensive effort to tap into the existing sender....I guess I'll never know. I have no reason to believe that there is any impairment in oil pressure (not that oil pressure is terribly meaningful...).
 
Oil pressure is a good indicator of bearing health. But you need an accurate gauge, something most factory gauges are not.
 
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