My wife's Sentra 2.5l is now consuming oil...
- Thread starter NattyBoh
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Okay. I'm going to assume that it was an OEM one? Others here have had problems with aftermarket ones on occasion, and I've had valves pass the nominal tests, yet have the symptoms disappear as soon as a new one was installed.
Originally Posted By: Triton_330
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
https://www.mil-specproducts.com/documents/1169_Pennzoil Conventional-PDS.pdf
According to this,pyb 10W30 is a tiny bit thicker at 100c cst than 5W30. The Noack is lower too.
And ALOT thicker in the cold,
hense;
One grade up from 5w-30 is 5w-40.
Jeez, you'd think most bitogers would understand #W= cold (start-up) grade and xw-## = operating temp grade!
It's pretty simple, really.
~ Triton
I would think most Bitogers would know that there is more to it than just cold temp differences.
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
https://www.mil-specproducts.com/documents/1169_Pennzoil Conventional-PDS.pdf
According to this,pyb 10W30 is a tiny bit thicker at 100c cst than 5W30. The Noack is lower too.
And ALOT thicker in the cold,
hense;
One grade up from 5w-30 is 5w-40.
Jeez, you'd think most bitogers would understand #W= cold (start-up) grade and xw-## = operating temp grade!
It's pretty simple, really.
~ Triton
I would think most Bitogers would know that there is more to it than just cold temp differences.
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10W30 pyb will be perfectly fine for your winters Natty. My friend has used pyb 10W30 in her 4cyl Altima since brand new. She lives in Alaska and it now has over 400,000 miles on it. Still purrs like a happy kitty!
Originally Posted By: Garak
Okay. I'm going to assume that it was an OEM one? Others here have had problems with aftermarket ones on occasion, and I've had valves pass the nominal tests, yet have the symptoms disappear as soon as a new one was installed.
I've used both aftermarket and oem.OEM is in there now
Okay. I'm going to assume that it was an OEM one? Others here have had problems with aftermarket ones on occasion, and I've had valves pass the nominal tests, yet have the symptoms disappear as soon as a new one was installed.
I've used both aftermarket and oem.OEM is in there now
Well, that's a puzzler. As for oil choice, as I mentioned, I guess you have to decide whether you want to risk sacrificing a few dollars for it consuming a thicker synthetic (since there's no guarantee a different oil choice won't be consumed) or risk cold cranking a bit by going to a cheaper 10w-30.
True. But I'm guessing at this point, its burning some, so any oil would suffice. Oil has to be all the same for the smaller cars, as in if its a daily driver. I could see using an expensive oil for my diesel, since heat, stress etc is always thrown at the oil. In my wife's 4 cyl... Lol.
Just have to decide if I want 5w40 or 10w30.
Just have to decide if I want 5w40 or 10w30.
Well, that's pretty much it. Maybe choose one and experiment. 10w-30 isn't totally unreasonable for your winters, nor is a 5w-40 necessarily going to be that expensive, particularly in the States. If it were summer, I'd say throw in 15w-40 and see how it goes.
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
Originally Posted By: Bigdaddy345
I have a 2007 Prius with 267899k that burns a qt every 700 miles.
That's about what my Saturn burns, but it is known for oil burning too.. haha! The QR25 is also known for it. I never did desire to own one, but Nissan used to make such amazingly durable engines, then the QR25 came..
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
Originally Posted By: Bigdaddy345
I have a 2007 Prius with 267899k that burns a qt every 700 miles.
That's about what my Saturn burns, but it is known for oil burning too.. haha! The QR25 is also known for it. I never did desire to own one, but Nissan used to make such amazingly durable engines, then the QR25 came..
Originally Posted By: Al
The QR 2.5 is a disposable engine. I would not tear into the engine and rebuild it.
Its rod to stroke length is low so the piston speeds are qite high with quick reversals at tdc and bdc. This engine was a disaster right out of the chutet in 2002. It marked Nissan's slide from great engines to (with the exception of the VQ) to junk.Instead of junking it from the git-go they have tried to keep it soldiering on by screwing with rings and ring material.
Contrast 2.4 QR to honda's K24. Wait you can't compare them. This coming from a Sentra owner.
The early QR had faults, but if you fixed the two major (pre-cat & intake screws) issues the engine was solid.
I have a Gen 1, which I constantly beat the [censored] out of (WOT daily), and it's extremely strong, and BURNS NO OIL. I also have a Nismo header. I've taken on newer Honda Si's, with no issue at the track. Dynod at 190torque and 172whp with barely any mods, curb weight ~2600lbs Stock #s are 175hp/180tq. Car handles amazing with Nismo suspension, and is a giant-killer at the autocross.
Disposable ...Maybe if you don't know what you're doing.
The 2nd Gen QR inside (especially the B16 Spec V) is every-bit as good as the K24. Nissan completly revamped the internals. Do some research before you speak.
Originally Posted By: Bigdaddy345
I have a 2007 Prius with 267899k that burns a qt every 700 miles.
That's about what my Saturn burns, but it is known for oil burning too.. haha! The QR25 is also known for it. I never did desire to own one, but Nissan used to make such amazingly durable engines, then the QR25 came..
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
Originally Posted By: Bigdaddy345
I have a 2007 Prius with 267899k that burns a qt every 700 miles.
That's about what my Saturn burns, but it is known for oil burning too.. haha! The QR25 is also known for it. I never did desire to own one, but Nissan used to make such amazingly durable engines, then the QR25 came..
Originally Posted By: Al
The QR 2.5 is a disposable engine. I would not tear into the engine and rebuild it.
Its rod to stroke length is low so the piston speeds are qite high with quick reversals at tdc and bdc. This engine was a disaster right out of the chutet in 2002. It marked Nissan's slide from great engines to (with the exception of the VQ) to junk.Instead of junking it from the git-go they have tried to keep it soldiering on by screwing with rings and ring material.
Contrast 2.4 QR to honda's K24. Wait you can't compare them. This coming from a Sentra owner.
The early QR had faults, but if you fixed the two major (pre-cat & intake screws) issues the engine was solid.
I have a Gen 1, which I constantly beat the [censored] out of (WOT daily), and it's extremely strong, and BURNS NO OIL. I also have a Nismo header. I've taken on newer Honda Si's, with no issue at the track. Dynod at 190torque and 172whp with barely any mods, curb weight ~2600lbs Stock #s are 175hp/180tq. Car handles amazing with Nismo suspension, and is a giant-killer at the autocross.
Disposable ...Maybe if you don't know what you're doing.
The 2nd Gen QR inside (especially the B16 Spec V) is every-bit as good as the K24. Nissan completly revamped the internals. Do some research before you speak.
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