My wife's Sentra 2.5l is now consuming oil...

[06VtecV6]

Originally Posted By: NattyBoh
Just to report back, it seems in about 3-4k miles its using lite less than 1qt of oil. Would switching to a thicker oil help with the burning?

Spec is 5w30. I know I can get 5w40 it its synthetic and the cost goes with it. Is there a dino oil I can use in 5w40?

Thanks.


10w-30 PYB.

Originally Posted By: Bigdaddy345
I have a 2007 Prius with 267899k that burns a qt every 700 miles.


extremely excessive.

 

[NattyBoh]

That's what I have in there now, PYB but in 5w30.

Wouldn't I want a thicker oil on the hot end not the cold side of the viscosity?

 

[Bigdaddy345]

Hot thick cold thin

 

[NattyBoh]

Yeah that's what I thought but the other guy said 10w40, will the cold number being a 10w vs 5w? I guess I'm wondering if that will hurt cold flow, or lubrication

 

[06VtecV6]

Originally Posted By: Bigdaddy345
Hot thick cold thin

+1 this man speak prodigious truth, all the way from that tiny town of hagerstown.(my "kirk cousins" lived there) so would the OP be willing to try 10-30 PYB (see sig) or PYB High Mileage if he wants to "skip a step" and report back to us?! here's hoping..

 

[NattyBoh]

What? Lol

 

[06VtecV6]

Buy Pennzoil Yellow Bottle or High Mileage, try it and let us know how it goes.

 

[aquariuscsm]

I'd take a "baby step" up in viscosity. Pennzoil 10W30 hm.

 

[NattyBoh]

Okay, so lol 5w40 or 10w30? But wouldn't I want thicker hot number because it spends [censored] near most its time at operating temp..

 

[aquariuscsm]

Originally Posted By: NattyBoh
Okay, so lol 5w40 or 10w30? But wouldn't I want thicker hot number because it spends [censored] near most its time at operating temp..


I wouldn't bump up the 2nd number just yet. From my limited technical knowledge,a higher first number will supposedly have a lower noack,which "should" help resist burnoff/evaporation/etc. Stick with a 30. Go with 10W30. Since you're already using pyb 5W30,try pyb 10W30 and see if it helps.

 

[NattyBoh]

Ahh got ya.

 

[Xrs2zz]

Originally Posted By: NattyBoh
Okay, so lol 5w40 or 10w30? But wouldn't I want thicker hot number because it spends [censored] near most its time at operating temp..


Yes, you'd want a thicker hot number or just a thicker Xw30 than what you're using. Some 10w30's are actually thinner than some 5w30's at operating temp. Just look at a spec sheet before trying the oil you pick.

 

[Gasbuggy]

I would stop worrying about what oil to use and find out if the pre-cat is coming apart. This has happened to countless Nissans. http://www.b15sentra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=135241

 

[NattyBoh]

The precat has bee. Gone. But it was on there for 100k. Although when removed, it looked good...

 

[Triton_330]

The difference between 5w-30 and 10w-30 is at startup. At operating temps they are the same.

Thus, going up a grade would be from 5w-30 to 5w-40.

~ Triton

 

[NattyBoh]

Yeah that's what I was saying. I think if like to go up on the hot side

 

[aquariuscsm]

https://www.mil-specproducts.com/documents/1169_Pennzoil Conventional-PDS.pdf

According to this,pyb 10W30 is a tiny bit thicker at 100c cst than 5W30. The Noack is lower too.

 

[Triton_330]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
https://www.mil-specproducts.com/documents/1169_Pennzoil Conventional-PDS.pdf

According to this,pyb 10W30 is a tiny bit thicker at 100c cst than 5W30. The Noack is lower too.

And ALOT thicker in the cold,
hense;
One grade up from 5w-30 is 5w-40.

Jeez, you'd think most bitogers would understand #W= cold (start-up) grade and xw-## = operating temp grade!

It's pretty simple, really.

~ Triton

 

[NattyBoh]

I understand the weights, but to me if its burning wouldn't I want a thicker oil at operating temp. Since that's where its most likely burning at?
Since factory is 5w30, I'd need or well want 5w40, right??

 

[Garak]

That's where it gets dicey. A 10w-30 might be worth a shot. The Noack is a bit lower, and the high temperature viscosity is a tiny bit higher. Essentially, at temperatures, it's the same oil, but you never know, you might experience a difference.

The 5w-40 option is the correct answer if one is going up a grade at operating temperature from 5w-30. If I've got something burning oil, though, I get a little antsy about using an expensive synthetic. And, I don't like 10w-40 much either. 15w-40 is a good option, but that's not doing you any favours in the winter.

As others have said, check the PCV first, even though you replaced it last year. Then, you can decide between a 10w-30 or a 5w-40, or something else. Do you sacrifice winter start up capability or do you sacrifice a bit more money using a more expensive oil for top up?