My Top (3) GDI Oils

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Gokhan said:
The M1 AFE 0W-20 is currently half-PAO-based (with some AN) and the M1 EP 0W-20 is currently fully PAO-based (with some AN). For GDI/TGDI engines, go with the M1 EP 0W-20, not with the M1 AFE 0W-20, because the former (EP) has not only a higher-quality base oil but also a higher antioxidant content (for extended performance (longer oil life)), both of which are necessary for reducing the IVD.

The M1 AP 0W-20 is very similar to the M1 EP 0W-20 and possibly even a better choice, but it's a lot more expensive.
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*All accurate ... As an inexpensive "sleeper" synthetic 0W20 Gokhan's previously tested QSUD oils did surprise for relatively low VII's % with a decent fit for GDI engines . Not sure how the new SP / GF6 Quaker State Synthetic will fair though .
 
ChrisD46 said:
*All accurate ... As an inexpensive "sleeper" synthetic 0W20 Gokhan's previously tested QSUD oils did surprise for relatively low VII's % with a decent fit for GDI engines . Not sure how the new SP / GF6 Quaker State Synthetic will fair though .
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Mobil1 changed the formulations up when they canned Annual Protection during the SP transition, AFE 0w-20 is now fully GTL and EP is fully PAO from what I've seen
 
ATex7239 said:
We took a Buick (GM) 3.6 GDI V6 over 200k on unknown dealer bulk and Valvoline synthetic blend. Engine was running well; got rid of it for other reasons. UOA and live data showed the engine was in good shape. Change it often.
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For a whole host of reasons, this is a key point many consumers fail to realize. Do this and save headaches.
 
SteveG4 said:
For a whole host of reasons, this is a key point many consumers fail to realize. Do this and save headaches.
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Pretty much. I’d always change it around 25% on the OLM. Which equaled 5500-7000 miles depending on the type of driving. It used about 1qt per OCI, so I kept it topped off as well.
I think a lot of the notorious issues with GM 3.6 came from combining long OCI and not keeping it topped off.
 
Forgive me, but can someone please tell me what IVD stands for? I looked at the Sticky page and didn't see it. Thank you!
 
Wow - this was a difficult read. Now I am supposed to believe the Mobil 1 AP 0W20 in my motor - is weak on oxidation stability because it’s not “Euro” …
Sorry - but the formulator knows a thing or two as well - maybe as much as the beloved OEM who is always looking for a crutch or two …
 
4WD said:
Wow - this was a difficult read. Now I am supposed to believe the Mobil 1 AP 0W20 in my motor - is weak on oxidation stability because it’s not “Euro” …
Sorry - but the formulator knows a thing or two as well - maybe as much as the beloved OEM who is always looking for a crutch or two …
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that’s not what happened here…

the takeaway is ap/ep 0w20 provides excellent performance despite only being required to meet the low bars of dexos and gf6
 
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I'm not sure how many GDI engines recommend a 0W20 or 5W20 oil but with possible fuel dilution issues I am curious if the new SP rated synthetic oils address this possibility better than previous SN+ synthetic oils ?
 
ChrisD46 said:
I'm not sure how many GDI engines recommend a 0W20 or 5W20 oil but with possible fuel dilution issues I am curious if the new SP rated synthetic oils address this possibility better than previous SN+ synthetic oils ?
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I think most new GDI engines run on 0w20. Mine does.
 
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