My conversation with Roy Howell-REDLINE

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quote:

Originally posted by buster:
.. I'm not convinced entirely that it does come down in time as we have seen people run 3 or 4 consecutive runs with RL and it still remains high.

When?

quote:

Terry could confirm this.

I don't know about that one either.

Thanks for sharing your conversation.
 
Jason, I believe their was someone (I'll go back and look) that ran RL consecutively and the Pb didn't drop all that much if any.

I agree with Bror. I've spoke to Amsoil in the past about Redline and they simply said they don't agree with their chemistry. I know they wouldnt say it's better then what they are using but you have to wonder why Mobil 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple and others are all PAO based. If it were cost, they why is Amsoil S2k $8.35 qt? They could have used more esters and so could M1 as they make them. For drag racing they might be ideal when your talking 3,000 HP but not for street engines.

As far as shear stability, I havn't seen ANY proof that redline is more shear stable then Amsoil/M1. It should be based on specs but in a gas engine it's not proven itself, at least not on BITOG.
 
I will have a heavily raced RL 5w40 sample coming this fall.....it will have been my 4th fill or RL.....
burnout.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by Last_Z:

quote:

Originally posted by MolaKule:
Actually, I believe it was Terry Dyson who first presented the "scavenger" theory here on BITOG.

I had been running Redline in test engines for some time and noticed UOA's with elevated soft wear metals, but could never detect actual wear with a micrometer in Kohler engine cylinders, cams, and bearings.

So my theory was that the high polarity esters must be replacing already loose metals and molecule thick metal films with the ester molecules.

Scavenging seemed like a proper description for what was happenning.


Would this be the same as Amsoil's "micro polishing" system?....or is it Royal Purple?


I think there is something to that, and it is one of the reasons I posted a long response at S2KI.com about sticking to one oil rather than constantly experimenting in search of the Holy GraiLube). LE's 8130 also claims to smooth the metal surface of areas like the piston skirt, so one assumes that it is part of the additive (Monolec?) that burnishes into the lands between asperities, reducing sliding friction and local shearing at the "mono-molecular" level. If it does leave something, the rest of the oil formulation would need to not interfere or remove that film. So then we come along with another quality oil, could be Red Line, could be Delvac 1, with either a different detergent, or a polar-affinity basestock like an ester, and the either or the combo might tend to remove that the film, or hold it in suspension as a "dirt" element. (This was one of the "bites on PTFE - the additives might view the particularates (sp?) as dirt, suspend them, and then have nothing left to deal with the real by-products of combustion.

So if a top-tier oil needs to "get friendly" with an engine, I say let sleeping lubes lie where they will - it may well be that our passionate (obsessive) search for a miracle in a bottle causes us to have issues which the average motorist does not - they tend to stick with an oil for a while.

A good test would be to take an engine that is already broken in, use a first-rate oil like RL or Amsoil or LE for 3 OCI's with an UOA, then switch to another top-drawer oil with a "film" claim, and see if the soft wear metals spike up in a manner higher than that attributable to wear.
 
Good point RR. Well there is only one way to find out and that is to test the oil. I used RL for a short 5k mile interval and am using M1/ASL on and off now. This summer I might use the friggin stuff so I can find out the answer!
 
Tyrolkid - You are about the only one here who runs RL on so many consecutive fills IMO. If your next UOA is like the previous three it will be exceptional. HP turbo and raced shows what RL can really do!
 
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