My car's compression tested low. Help.

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I would take all the performance parts off and drive it around for a while and see if the problem is gone. I don't think any of those parts will raise the performance without proper tuning.

If that oil catch can eliminates the PCV you are just asking for trouble. There is absolutely no reason to have it on a street car.

The short ram intake may show increases on the dyno but they are a waste on the street. When you are stopped at a stop light underhood temps increase which can cause a significant increase in intake air temps. This causes the ECU to richen the mixture and retard the igntion timing to protect the engine, both of which reduce performance. And even when you take off and get some cool air in the engine compartment the computer doesn't react instantly and you end up losing the 'race'. I would replace it with a proper cold air intake.

Does this 'racepipe' eliminate the main cat or the precat? Does it have O2 sensors before and after it? If it does you should get a check engine light with a corresponding drop in performance.

The high pressure fuel pump is a complete waste unless you are making significantly more power.

You should never have to drop the heat range on a modern engine that is nearly stock so I would put the proper ones in, although I doubt they are causing you problem.

Although the dealer can't deny you warranty service unless they can prove that the parts caused the problem I wouldn't risk it. It would be pretty easy to prove that something like an oil catch can caused damage to the vehicle.

I would be most concerned that your wet compression test raised the readings 20 psi. That's pretty significant. How much oil did you put in? Adding too much oil could artificially raise the compression readings.
 
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You will raise the compression even in a good engine if you add oil to the cylinders.
I've never seen it fail to raise the compression.
Either something is affecting all the cyls, like cam timing, or each cylinder failed at the same rate somehow.
 
The absolute number may not mean too much as it depends on many variables. The MS3 engine uses variable valve timing, which can directly affect the compression numbers. The gauge accuracy may also be a factor.

I notice you have fouled plugs, that may explain your loss of power and backfiring. The fouling may be due to your aftermarket high pressure fuel pump. I suspect the MS3 uses a non-return fuel delivery system for direct injection, and the fuel pressure regulator is located in the fuel tank. If the new pump increases pressure so much that the regulator is constantly in bypass mode, you may be running very rich.

Did you notice a gain in power when you swap out the old plugs for new?
 
No didn't notice any improvement really. Interesting about the Fuel Pump thing you mention b/c that is exactly when it happened. Late Dec I put the HPFP and step colder plugs in it and that's when I noticed the drop in performance. I didn't notice it for a month b/c we were snowed in so I didn't make the connection then. And the car runs extremely rich now. It always did but after the HPFP much more so. My exhaust tip is solid black with black carbon.

p.s. I put a tablespoon of oil in for the wet test.
 
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I would suggest reinstalling the OEM fuel pump, and move from there. An overly rich mixture can definitely result in power loss, that is why guys on aftermarket engine management will need dyno time and wide-band O2 sensors to fine tune the programming for optimum and safe power output.

I am also wondering if your piston rings are so coked up with carbon to the extent your compression numbers are reading low?
 
I poured a little bit of MMO in them last night and let it soak overnight and all day today just in case they were coked up, to clean them. Though I didn't notice an improvement today.
 
If it is the VVT, what does one do to correct it? If it is the timing wouldn't the car run really bad? Right now it has a bit of a rough idle but nothing bad. Just a very slight miss you can barely feel every few seconds.
 
I thought of that too Panda, but the problem with that idea is that the same gauge was used again for the wet test immediately after the dry and each cylinder went from 130 to 150 psi. So even if it's wrong, there is some kind of issue b/c of that, right? I ask in all honesty, I do not know if 20psi is significant, but one guy in this thread mentioned it was. Not only that, there is the power loss I mentioned. And that is real.

I put some Redline 10w40 oil and new filter on it this weekend. So if it is coking of the rings, maybe that will help clean it some.
 
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If this were an older engine then 20 psi or more wet would be pretty normal but this engine has only 13K.
The rings should be broken in by now so i would expect them to have a fairly good seal.

Just for my own info i did a wet and dry test on my bike (liquid cooled 4)and got 5 psi difference.It has 4,800 mi.

Instead of messing around trying to diagnose this i would do as others have stated,get it back to OEM and get it to the dealer.
Who knows it may have low tension rings and this test result is normal in the turbo motor,i don't know about this particular engine to say.
 
Yeah that's what scares me, the 20psi difference in the wet test. If I can't figure it out soon or come up w/ some ideas I'll probably eventually go back to stock. I don't have many mods on and most of them I had on for a long time without issue. It was only when I did the HPFP & step colder plugs that they became an issue. The car definitely rich'ned up significantly after that. But there was a legit reason I did it. It's recommended to do as one of the early mods as people get fuel cut in these cars after a few mods and that can lead down a bad path.
 
Higher pressure is not a good idea as its going to make the engine richer without tuning. Higher volume is OK but higher pressure is a bad idea. Considering the results of the wet test you should also do a leakdown test to determine how much leakdown you have. It's possible that the excess fuel washed the oil off the cylinder walls and damaged your piston rings. Put it back to stock and get it to the dealer for warranty repairs. If you have excess leak down they will give you a new engine (as long as they don't find out about the mods).
 
But I've only had the HPFP on for a few thousand miles, if that. And there are tons and tons of guys that have this on their cars too for much longer than myself without this effect. Something just doesn't seem right. All four wear down perfectly and evenly? I just think there's something else at play here. I will be going back to stock like is recommended and take it to the dealer, but still I'd like to figure it out somehow.
 
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How many cats does the car come with stock compared to how many you have now? It might be clear to others, but from your previous post it seems that you replaced one with a straight pipe.

Also, unless you're running high HP, you most likely don't need colder plugs. Are you sure the fouling is oil and not due to a too-rich, too-cold-plug combination? Colder plugs and conservative driving might be causing your fouling.
 
Yes, 2 cats stock and you're right, I replaced the 2nd one with a straight pipe. I did that almost day 1 and it's never been a problem.

I don't run colder plugs anymore. And the plugs fouling I do think was due to being super rich and step colder. The current stock plugs are doing fine... with just an ever so slight occasional hiccup. Though it for some reason has gotten better. I have been idling very smooth all day today and yesterday.

I talked to the guys about the HPFP and they don't think it's the issue... citing these cars run "pig rich" from the factory. Basically Mazda tunes it that way for a cushion of protection or some such.

Last night I checked my oil and when I pulled the dipstick out, it smelled like I was sniffing straight gasoline. This is the oil I just put in this weekend! Granted, it would usually smell like oil after awhile even when stock, but not THIS soon and not THIS bad.
 
Again, I'm not sure how sensitive speeds are to freeer-flowing exhausts with out tuning, but I'd most definitely look into it. You spent some money on a car, and spent more money to replace the perfectly good catted pipe with a sraight pipe, so why not spend a few hundred more on a proper tune (after you figure out your compression issue that is)

I think the DI 2.3 DISI is prone to fuel dilution, and might be made worse if you've been doing a lot of short-distance driving since this past weekend.
 
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Originally Posted By: shpankey


I talked to the guys about the HPFP and they don't think it's the issue... citing these cars run "pig rich" from the factory. Basically Mazda tunes it that way for a cushion of protection or some such.



That is absolutely not true. No newer car is tuned to run 'pig rich'. Although under wide open throttle conditions a turbo car will run richer than a naturally aspirated car, it is only rich enough to make good power and suppress detonation. During cruise condition they run very close to stoich. I am not certain that the pump you have actually increased the fuel pressure as that is not the job of the pump to determine, it is the job of the fuel pressure regulator. I would think that your check engine light would have come on if the pressure was raise as it would push your fuel trim numbers out of the acceptable parameters and should set a "mixture adaptation limit reached" or similar code but I think you stated that the check engine light has not come on.

At any rate I still believe you should put it back to stock, see how it drives, and get it back to the dealer. Your wet compression numbers really concern me and you will want to get that taken care of sooner than later.

A little note on taking advice from people on internet forums: Trust no one. Take everything with a grain of salt. Look at peoples qualifications and decide for yourself whether their input is worth anything. If someone who works as an accountant (I'm not trying to bash accountants) is giving you advice on high performance engine preparation, the information he is giving you is probably gleaned from magazines and other internet forums and can not be considered reliable. "Personal experience" means nothing in the world of high performance engine preparation. Moderns are way too complex to learn about the right way to do things from reading magazines and trolling internet forums.

You can choose not to trust me and that is OK. However, I am qualified to be giving advice on this subject. I have two degrees in Automotive Technology, spent 4 years tuning turbo-charged, super-charged, and naturally aspirated engines at Dinan Engineering (the BMW tuner) and was mentored by Steve Dinan himself and a man named Dema Elgin who is a camshaft engineer whose camshafts have won thousands of races, including the Daytona 500
 
Some American versions of European direct injection cars are indeed set to run too rich.
Not at cruise, when the O2 sensor is in control, but at certain full throttle conditions. I'm not sure of their thinking. Maybe to compensate for alcohol in our fuels?

But the reality is, some cars are set too rich.
 
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