My AutoRx experience

[greenjp]

2 bottles of AutoRX will probably turn that 5W-30 into a ~12.5W-33. Note that's a very rough estimate assuming AutoRX is a straight 50 (I dunno, could be somewhat lower or higher) and you've got a 5 quart sump.

Depending on your driving habits and your area's temps that may or may not be a big deal, but I can understand not wanting to thicken up the oil in the winter.

MMO will thin the oil out, so if this engine is sensitive to low viscosity you might want to consider putting a quart of something heavier (10W or 15W 40) in to counteract it. I'd recommend a similar approach in reverse for AutoRX but there aren't any 0W conventionals to my knowledge.

Using MMO, doing compression tests, then using AutoRX when it's warmer and following up with more compression tests would be interesting. I would love to see the arguments about confounding factors in those results!

jeff

 

[djquik1]

Originally Posted By: greenjp
2 bottles of AutoRX will probably turn that 5W-30 into a ~12.5W-33. Note that's a very rough estimate assuming AutoRX is a straight 50 (I dunno, could be somewhat lower or higher) and you've got a 5 quart sump.

Depending on your driving habits and your area's temps that may or may not be a big deal, but I can understand not wanting to thicken up the oil in the winter.

MMO will thin the oil out, so if this engine is sensitive to low viscosity you might want to consider putting a quart of something heavier (10W or 15W 40) in to counteract it. I'd recommend a similar approach in reverse for AutoRX but there aren't any 0W conventionals to my knowledge.

Using MMO, doing compression tests, then using AutoRX when it's warmer and following up with more compression tests would be interesting. I would love to see the arguments about confounding factors in those results!

jeff


I have a 6 qt capacity on the truck and have been using 5w30, I plan on using 19 oz of MMO and fill the rest up with 5w30 Supertech and then running it through March/April or about 750 miles and then another round of compression tests.

Then dump it and run some Schaeffer's 7000 series 5w30 and go until the end of summer, I will pull the Valve cover at that point and see what we got internally for varnish. At that point another compression test will be done and hopefully a leak down test if I can budget buying another gauge past the wifey.
If my results aren't that great I will do the AutoRX and a Supertech treatment and go from there.
If not I plan on sticking with Schaeffer's

 

[electrolover]

dj i have not had alot of luck with mmo and varnish with my truck, but my wifes explorer looks like new after 10k with PP. im running PU now and ordered kreen to run in the last 1k miles or so.

 

[djquik1]

Originally Posted By: electrolover
dj i have not had alot of luck with mmo and varnish with my truck, but my wifes explorer looks like new after 10k with PP. im running PU now and ordered kreen to run in the last 1k miles or so.


I haven't used either PP or PU, the truck has had Motorcraft oils in it the whole time it has been in service, so it should not be to tough to clean it up and I like the properties Schaeffer's offers with their oils so I will probably stick with it after I get done with some additives.

Now if my compression doesn't improve over the next 6 months or I find out with a leak down test that it is pointless to keep trying then I will put bulk Motorcraft in it until it dies....Then do a full rebuild.

I think I can bring it back because it does not burn oil as far as I can tell

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: electrolover
dj i have not had alot of luck with mmo and varnish with my truck, but my wifes explorer looks like new after 10k with PP. im running PU now and ordered kreen to run in the last 1k miles or so.


How much MMO did you use and how long did you run it?

 

[badtlc]

will you be doing the compression tests with the same motor temperature? If so, I can't wait to see the results. This could finally be some quantifiable evidence in support of MMO.

 

[djquik1]

Originally Posted By: badtlc
will you be doing the compression tests with the same motor temperature? If so, I can't wait to see the results. This could finally be some quantifiable evidence in support of MMO.


Yes,
Outside air temp I will not be in control of but internal engine temp will be the same

 

[demarpaint]

Do wet and dry compression test, to determine or rule out if the rings or valves are bad.

 

[djquik1]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Do wet and dry compression test, to determine or rule out if the rings or valves are bad.


Look above, already did the preliminary test

 

[demarpaint]

OK, now repeat the test after you've finished with the MMO. What is interesting is the numbers are fairly uniform, but low. The wet compression numbers went up so the problem is most likely with the rings. Hopefully they're sticking, and not worn out.

 

[electrolover]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: electrolover
dj i have not had alot of luck with mmo and varnish with my truck, but my wifes explorer looks like new after 10k with PP. im running PU now and ordered kreen to run in the last 1k miles or so.


How much MMO did you use and how long did you run it?


1 qt with 6 qts of oil for 2k. i found carbon in the filter but the varnish is still there. thats why i ordered kreen. i didnt even know it had carbon build up

 

[demarpaint]

MMO takes longer to do a total clean up, but seems like it was well on its way. Kreen is the big gun fast cleaner, and with the start that you already had on the clean up it should be very clean after the Kreen treatment. Good luck! Report back!

 

[Trav]

Thanks for doing the compression test.It sounds like MMO has done some cleaning the proof will be next compression test.
Did you get the Kreen yet? Use a big funnel,the cans are a PITA.One OCI is all that any engine i have used it on needed to remove the visible varnish but the oil got very black quickly for the next few changes,now the oil remains much cleaner over the entire OCI.

 

[djquik1]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
OK, now repeat the test after you've finished with the MMO. What is interesting is the numbers are fairly uniform, but low. The wet compression numbers went up so the problem is most likely with the rings. Hopefully they're sticking, and not worn out.


Not real low.....Replacement time according to Ford is 100 psi or lower. New tolerance is 175-185

The engine has 309k on the clock and I have no idea how many hours of idling it has.

 

[djquik1]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Thanks for doing the compression test.It sounds like MMO has done some cleaning the proof will be next compression test.
Did you get the Kreen yet? Use a big funnel,the cans are a PITA.One OCI is all that any engine i have used it on needed to remove the visible varnish but the oil got very black quickly for the next few changes,now the oil remains much cleaner over the entire OCI.


I haven't put the MMO in yet, after the snow storm we got hit with over the weekend. I have to bring the old beast in the shop and change out the transmission fluid now too, since it got stuck and I got it pretty hot.
So this weekend it will be getting some fluids swapped.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: djquik1
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
OK, now repeat the test after you've finished with the MMO. What is interesting is the numbers are fairly uniform, but low. The wet compression numbers went up so the problem is most likely with the rings. Hopefully they're sticking, and not worn out.


Not real low.....Replacement time according to Ford is 100 psi or lower. New tolerance is 175-185

The engine has 309k on the clock and I have no idea how many hours of idling it has.



Not bad for 309 K. Let me put it another way, the numbers are low, but not real low

. Uniform indicates the issue is across the board and not limited to 1 or 2 cylinders, which could mean normal wear for the miles. I'd say your engine has some life remaining, and you are on the right track. Good luck and report back.

 

[Spyder7]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: djquik1
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
OK, now repeat the test after you've finished with the MMO. What is interesting is the numbers are fairly uniform, but low. The wet compression numbers went up so the problem is most likely with the rings. Hopefully they're sticking, and not worn out.


Not real low.....Replacement time according to Ford is 100 psi or lower. New tolerance is 175-185

The engine has 309k on the clock and I have no idea how many hours of idling it has.



Not bad for 309 K. Let me put it another way, the numbers are low, but not real low

. Uniform indicates the issue is across the board and not limited to 1 or 2 cylinders, which could mean normal wear for the miles. I'd say your engine has some life remaining, and you are on the right track. Good luck and report back.


+1. I think you're on the right track too and the compression looks very good for the mileage. With the cleaning you are doing and those compression results, this engine should have some nice life left in it.

Edit to add: you may not see much, or any change, in compression numbers after the cleanup - but that doesn't mean it wasn't worthwhile or successful. A compression test is very good for finding mechanical issues in the upper cylinder like worn compression rings, but won't necessarily show much (or any) change after an engine clean up. Your compression already looks good, I just don't want to see you tie the results of the cleaning (as being successful) based on a 2nd compression test. It may show an improvement, and it may not; if no change then compression is already at the limits imposed by the mechanical condition of the cylinders and doesn't mean the engine clean up failed or wasn't worth doing.

-Spyder

 

[electrolover]

300k!!! wow
even if nothing helps see if it will go 400 with out smoking like a train. thats awesome

 

[djquik1]

Originally Posted By: Spyder7
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: djquik1
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
OK, now repeat the test after you've finished with the MMO. What is interesting is the numbers are fairly uniform, but low. The wet compression numbers went up so the problem is most likely with the rings. Hopefully they're sticking, and not worn out.


Not real low.....Replacement time according to Ford is 100 psi or lower. New tolerance is 175-185

The engine has 309k on the clock and I have no idea how many hours of idling it has.



Not bad for 309 K. Let me put it another way, the numbers are low, but not real low

. Uniform indicates the issue is across the board and not limited to 1 or 2 cylinders, which could mean normal wear for the miles. I'd say your engine has some life remaining, and you are on the right track. Good luck and report back.


+1. I think you're on the right track too and the compression looks very good for the mileage. With the cleaning you are doing and those compression results, this engine should have some nice life left in it.

Edit to add: you may not see much, or any change, in compression numbers after the cleanup - but that doesn't mean it wasn't worthwhile or successful. A compression test is very good for finding mechanical issues in the upper cylinder like worn compression rings, but won't necessarily show much (or any) change after an engine clean up. Your compression already looks good, I just don't want to see you tie the results of the cleaning (as being successful) based on a 2nd compression test. It may show an improvement, and it may not; if no change then compression is already at the limits imposed by the mechanical condition of the cylinders and doesn't mean the engine clean up failed or wasn't worth doing.

-Spyder



I don't plan on a huge increase, but if I pull the filter off and it feels heavy then I will be happy.

 

[djquik1]

Originally Posted By: electrolover
300k!!! wow
even if nothing helps see if it will go 400 with out smoking like a train. thats awesome


I am trying for 500k before I tear it down fully.