I did the high mileage treatment on a Ford modular 4.6 v8 with 250,000 miles.
The auto rx worked well at some things and not well at others. I could see deposit/sludge build up through the oil fill tube before this started and after the two complete cycles I can't notice any difference in this area. However, I had some varnish on the oil dipstick which is now gone.
I also had some leaky valve seals and at the end of the application I still see no difference in area either.
The engine had a very quit "tick" at the rear of the drivers side valve cover and the "tick has gone away.
I used spertech 10w-30 for the first clean/rinse phase and to reduce consumption (from the leaking valve seals) used Havoline 20w-50 for the second clean phase and Motorcraft 15w-40 for the final rinse. The directions were followed to the letter and motorcraft filters were used throughout the treatment.
So to sum thing up for my application:
Deposits/sludge-no difference noticed except for the varnish on the dipstick
leaky valve seals-no difference noted except when 20w-50 was used. 10w-30 and 15w-40 burn about a quart every 500-800 miles before and after auto rx. I fully understand the valve seals need replaced and they will be soon but I am just including this for reference. The 20w-50 cut consumption way down to about 1 quart every 1500 miles but made the engine feel slugish.
"tick" in the top of the engine-completely gone
I was just wonering if I missed a secret auto rx rule to use a certain brand or weight of oil because to be honest I was a little let down at the amount of "cleaning" of the sludge and deposits because it seems most everyone on here had better cleaning results than I did.
Overall I am happy with the auto rx and consider the treatment worth the time, money, and effort. I just wish it cleaned MY engine a little better.
The auto rx worked well at some things and not well at others. I could see deposit/sludge build up through the oil fill tube before this started and after the two complete cycles I can't notice any difference in this area. However, I had some varnish on the oil dipstick which is now gone.
I also had some leaky valve seals and at the end of the application I still see no difference in area either.
The engine had a very quit "tick" at the rear of the drivers side valve cover and the "tick has gone away.
I used spertech 10w-30 for the first clean/rinse phase and to reduce consumption (from the leaking valve seals) used Havoline 20w-50 for the second clean phase and Motorcraft 15w-40 for the final rinse. The directions were followed to the letter and motorcraft filters were used throughout the treatment.
So to sum thing up for my application:
Deposits/sludge-no difference noticed except for the varnish on the dipstick
leaky valve seals-no difference noted except when 20w-50 was used. 10w-30 and 15w-40 burn about a quart every 500-800 miles before and after auto rx. I fully understand the valve seals need replaced and they will be soon but I am just including this for reference. The 20w-50 cut consumption way down to about 1 quart every 1500 miles but made the engine feel slugish.
"tick" in the top of the engine-completely gone
I was just wonering if I missed a secret auto rx rule to use a certain brand or weight of oil because to be honest I was a little let down at the amount of "cleaning" of the sludge and deposits because it seems most everyone on here had better cleaning results than I did.
Overall I am happy with the auto rx and consider the treatment worth the time, money, and effort. I just wish it cleaned MY engine a little better.
