Move over Motor Guard, BE-110, Frantz ..there's a new sheriff in town

[Gary Allan]

Here's my PALL canister filter installed on my Caravan. This may look odd ...you can just consider it high tech/high dollar "billy rigging". Nothing but the best. Stainless steel checks, lines, and fittings. Some things will be further modified as I find materials. The black base is some type of wall board ..painted black. I wanted a heavy rubber like padding ..but this will do. For lack of fabrication facilities and ability, I just ran a piece of alum angle from strut tower to strut tower.

Total capacity appears to be over two gallons and the dipstick works just fine (the ball checks hold).

It took forever to purge air from it. This is even with prefilling it with oil. You could hear the lifters spewing air (like long bouts of flatulence

) as the cotton media became saturated (after the engine was shut down to check the level). The filter gets warm rather quickly ..but appears to be perhaps a little over 100°F since my hand had no trouble holding it.

I took a preemptive move and drilled my PermaCool adapter with two 13/64 holes. Apparently I guessed correctly since I don't have any undue noise and the PALL gets warm.

Special thanks is to be given to Tim Schultz who spent a few hours (at least) figuring out which filters to use on this thing by me feeding him mearsurements. He did a ton of reasearch and spoon fed me the part # from McMaster.

Honorable mention goes to Filterguy. He was actually able to get someone to decipher the canister # by my fragmented (and aging eye) view on the faded tag. He also hooked me up with another source for 1um SS core filters for a decent price assuming this setup proves economical. This same source also has BIG 3.5" wound core filters available in the same length.

Future mods may include a termostat and cooler circuit. I'm using Pennzoil LL 10w (10w-20) and will see how it works out. This will not only be an excercize in filtration ..but viscosity manipulation via temp control. My 10w is very fluid when cold ..and if I can regulate it to "just hot enough" to keep the moisture out of it ..then I should have spendid high speed protection.

Okay ...let me have it...

 

[XS650]

Sounds like it weighs about 20 lbs installed and operating.

The picture looks like it is resting on the engine which moves and tie wrapped to the aluminum angle which mostly doen't move.

The tie wraps look like a major weak point, particularly in an engine compartment.

 

[Gary Allan]

Well ...I did say "rigged"

I didn't spend the time to string two hose clamps together before I shot the pic. I had thought that I had a few of the real heavy wire ties sitting around ..but couldn't find them. The thing can't move ..at least much. The "els" for the return line have the angle running through it. There's really no place for it to go. The hood tapers down forward of it's position ..I even tried to close it with it any closer to the battery and couldn't do it. I was actually considering fastening it to the hood ..there was enough length in the braided lines for that. I just couldn't manipulate where they would coil upon closure good enough for my visions of it ending up in one of the fans or laying across a plug wire/ehaust manifold.

A trip to Lowes or TSC will provide some vibration absorbing material.

I think that you're correct about the 20 lb weight. Especially full of oil.

 

[XS650]

It looks like a fun venture.

What are your plans for OCI, UOA etc?

 

[wwillson]

What is the model number of this filter? What filter element did you put in it?

 

[Gary Allan]

quote:

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What are your plans for OCI, UOA etc?

---

I dunno yet. I'll try and figure out how fast it plugs up. Once that's figured out I'll get my wife to use it as a daily driver for a while so it can rack up the mileage. I think I'll put a temp gauge that I have sitting around and tap in a pressure gauge as well ..just to give me somthing other than an idiot light.

Who knows how long this thing will last? 1um may be too fine a filtration. It took going against all my gut instinct to ONLY drill two additional 13/64 holes in the Perma Cool sandwich adapter. I guess I can always drill more if that proves to be too few/little.

After I get it done getting my feet wet on this thing and see how the vehicle responds to it ..I'll add some more hardware ..maybe a thermostat and cooler. I'd like to apply my theory of lighter weight oils serving just fine in high speed applications via temp manipulation.

quote:

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What is the model number of this filter? What filter element did you put in it?

---

CCL1002G16H13 is the canister #

4411K46
String-Wound Filter Cartridge Cotton, 20" 304 SS Core Cartridge, 1 Micron

 

[RalphPWood]

You have to pack cotton pretty tight to make it clean as good as TP. There are medias that can beat TP but are not economical such as activated carbon. We use activated carbon to filter drinking water and dry cleaning fluid. My big filter can beat the Motor Guard, Frantz and Amsoil filters but it takes three rolls of TP two rolls of paper towels and holds four gallons of oil. It is orificed down to filter at the same rate as the little filters. Size does make a difference but only if the media is equal. You can not beat a one tenth micron filter with a one micron filter. You can beat a one tenth micron filter with a larger one tenth micron filter or several little filters manifolded in parallel. The size of the element is what is important. A big housing just means you are adding more new oil when changing. You can get as high tech as you want but for cleaning motor oil ATF and fuel TP is king.
Put eight Motor Guards in a row and feed them with a 1/16" orifice. Oh my gosh.

Ralph

 

[briarhopper]

At least you "HILLBILLY RIGGED IT". That should help out quite a bit just by doing that. hehe.

 

[oldman]

What is the cost compared to Motor Guard, BE-110, or Ftantz?

 

[Mykro]

Nothing beats a TP filter..

If All the filters filtered to less than a micron..

Go with the filter that is simplest to install, that is the most simplest in design, that is the most economical element to buy.

 

[Gary Allan]

quote:

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What is the cost compared to Motor Guard, BE-110, or Ftantz?

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Heck ..if you actually paid for all of it ..hmmmm about $700-$1000

The ss checks alone will run you about $40. The JIC/AN prefabbed ss braided lines are proprietory to some piece of equipment that they ditched ..and probably $100 each. I got all this for salvage from my closing plant. It was going to the scrapyard. PALL doesn't make anything cheap...or reasonable for that matter. I wouldn't be surprised if they had ISO, FDA, NASA, NSA, DEA, MIL, CDC and who knows what certs on THAT canister somewhere in archives. This was a "rare find" of "fine junque`". My total costs aside from the filters from McMaster ..was the cost of the PermaCool unit and an 8 ft piece of aluminum angle from Home Depot.

The replacement filters are about $5 each if you buy them by the case for the 2.5" and about $7 each for the 3.5" in the 20" length for cotton wound with a stainless steel core.

quote:

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You can get as high tech as you want but for cleaning motor oil ATF and fuel TP is king

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Well, Ralph, I'm glad that you said that. You see this thing ..with just a little tap dancing on my part, can fit about 3 rolls of tp or two rolls of PT and just tap off the bottom of it thar... so it is an alternative if this proves too costly.


..but I'll settle for 1um for the time being. See how it works out. The ff will become redundant and I'll just tap off a sample every so often to see how things are going. When it doesn't get warm anymore ..I'll change it out. I also have access to 3.5" filters in the same length that will reduce the dead space in the canister. Not that I have to ditch the oil in it for a filter change.

I do agree that tp or pt is cheaper. I'll see how it goes. I'm just happy that I figured out a use for this thing besides filtering water for my icemaker on my 'fridge. It didn't fit any better in my kitchen.

 

[Mykro]

quote:

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Originally posted by Mykro:
Nothing beats a TP filter..

If All the filters filtered to less than a micron..

Go with the filter that is simplest to install, that is the most simplest in design, that uses the most economical element. (Tp)

---

 

[Gary Allan]

Echo ..Echo..

btw- Mykro. I have a vintage Sundrain Frantz with two replacement elements (the TP with the cardboard outer wrap). It's never been used. If you are interested and prefer to mess with a shot TP roll every 3k ...make me an offer that you feel it's worth. I won't be installing it on any of my vehicles since I'm not into frequent maintenance. I'm into building systems that you don't need to service out of necessity for a very long time. They take care of themselves. For those who choose to change their tp elements at such frequency ..more power to 'em ..but it is NEVER going to be a system that I'm going to enjoy having on my cars. It would be too much of a "chore". It's far too labor intensive ... far too often. For the "event" ..I could just as easily swap out the spin-on and drop the oil. I've got enough other distractions of "learning" to satisfy my need to play with oil.

I have a few paper weights on my computer desk. The Frantz is one of my most cherished ..but you can have it for a reasonable offer.

Better mousetraps are built every day. And where would we be if the Wright brothers had been the "end all" of flying??

 

[ekpolk]

quote:

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Originally posted by Mykro:
Nothing beats a TP filter..

If All the filters filtered to less than a micron..

Go with the filter that is simplest to install, that is the most simplest in design, that is the most economical element to buy.

---

I dunno. It all depends on your priorities as to whether one "beats" another. The way I rack up the miles, using a TP filter, I'll be messing with oily TP about twice a month, whereas with the Amsoil dual unit, I can go much longer between servicing (but pay more when I do. . .). Also, adding a quart every time you swap out almost seems to put you back to using up a lot of oil, like the old 3/3 change routine, but on a quart by quart basis over time instead of all at once. And how much "worse" can the Amsoil unit really be???

 

[RalphPWood]

I'm not familiar with the Amsoil BE-110. We got some expensive lab equipment at work that came with some beautiful little air filters. The problem is they don't clean or dry air. After the first of the year the company will be ordering Motor Guard M-30's from www.mcmaster.com. It looks better if they order the filters from McMaster Carr and I convert the filters to lube oil. That eliminates any conflict of interest. I dond't charge them for the 750 HP Fleetguard on the 8.3 Cummins powered yard tractor. I got some numbers from Fleetguard using their LF-750-A element. They get a good increase in engine life but I can beat it with a submicronic element and a 1/16" orifice at the inlet. I think the big filter shoould take a diesel pockup 30,000 miles between filter changes with no routine oil drains. It has three times the capacity of the one roll paper towel filters that I have installed on many pickups. People are amazing. They brag about the high tech full flow filters and they don't understand that the best of the big name filters use shredded newspapers. You won't hear the big companies like Wix and Fleetguard saying our filters use recycled newspapers. The only cotton filters I have seen that clean oil weere compressing types. You drop the element in and tighten a plate down on it. Then you pot the lid on. I think oil filters are too simple. Most people can hold a roll of TP in one hand and a cometitive element in the other and know which filter is the best. We are not splitting atoms here.
The M-30 has internal parts that are not compatable with hot lube oil. I have started using copper internal parts that should be easily duplicated by a do it yourselfer when I am gone. Motor Guard has made millions of filters over the last almost 40 years. The old Motor Guard lube oil people are about all gone. The M-30 in www.mcmaster.com is catalod #9841k91.

Ralph

(A note from Mrs Ralph that Ralph would not want me to be telling you so do not let on that you know, but he has been diagnosed with lymphoma cancer. It is in fairly early stages and we have high hopes that everything will be OK later. He has started his Chemo. If things don't improve after the Chemo I will let you know.) I just thought I would let you know because you might wonder about some of the little things he says in his posts.

 

[Bio-T]

Mrs. Ralph,

We will keep Ralph and your family in our prayers. May he have a speedy recovery and continue to share his knowledge of bypass filters with us.

Tony

 

[oldman]

Mrs. Ralph, I will keep you and Ralph in my prayers. He has a wealth of knowledge and I am glad he shares it with us.
Steve

 

[Gary Allan]

Yes, I'm sure that we all wish him the best in this most difficult challenge.

Both you and Ralph will be in my daily meditations.

GOD bless you.

 

[RalphPWood]

Thank all of you for your kind responses. I appreciate your thoughts and prayers.

Mrs. Ralph

 

[Terry]

Ralph and Mrs. Ralph you are BOTH in my prayers and that of our little church here in Greenville.

If I can help in any way say so. I'm not that far away.

903 883 4661

Terry