MOTUL HYBRID 0W-8 VOA or UOA?

Page 433. Australian OM.
2025 manual not published yet.

Any difference in legal language is CAFE regulations making Toyota US require low viscosity oils.

https://lexusmanuals.com.au/#/?q=ey...naW5hdGlvbiI6eyJwYWdlIjoxLCJwZXJQYWdlIjoxMn19

View attachment 243749
Toyota recomends w-8. It is a first fill oil. Not a run in oil. The max temperature is not the 8 but it is the one beyond the right arrow. Or cold elbow the left arrow. Imagine if it was not. We would all world wide have serious issues. Many years ago, when engines had very large tolerances, we used to tra el in the heat foe hors and occasional, if it got too hot, we would look for a suitable shade, preferably with a breeze, open the bonnet and let the engine cool off. If the coolingvsystem is running well, oul temperatures remain bellwo 90 degrees on petrol engines and 100 on diesel. Toyota hybrids, rum mostly at lower the 90. I run an App or two to check this. And ot it all runs smooth. I use Torque Pro and OBLink with an OBLink MX+ dongle. For the hybrid I run through the same dingle
Another thick vs. thin thread. The reason the manual says that is non-technical and is regulatory. The manufacturer is required to strenuously discourage the use of any oil grade that was not used to obtain the mileage rating. This applies to Canada as well as the EU and elsewhere that has emissions or CO2 limits. That’s the sole reason the manual is worded that way.
Not correct. Use 0W-8. If not available use the next grade 0W-16 next oil change revert back to 0W-8. The engines are first filled with the recommended oil.
Recommended because by law, no one can force a client to strictly use a type of oil. That is the only reason. Dealerships use cheaper bulk oils. So they buy 0w-20 bulk. Then tell us that, that is the recommended oil. liars.

Stick to 0w-8. Use a dongle from OBD Link. OBD Link Mx+ or better and OBDLink App. Check oil temperatures there. I also use Torque with the same dongle. Compare outside air temperature with oil temperature and coolant. I have driven my Yaris cross hybrid with 43 degrees temperature. If you drive normally, no racing, no heavy loading, no high speed chasing for too long. That holds steady at 70 to 90 degrees celcius oil temp and 80 coolant. Inntown it is even less due to Stop and start hybrid mode.the oils must be thin to lubricate fast when cold and keep surfaces wet. The rest the engine does it. The board computer does it. TGMO has tons of Mollybdnum and so does Liqui-Molly as well as Ravenol. Mobil 1 0W-8 wich is almost the same as TOGMO with the same grade. There is a lot of money soaked in these oils for any of them not being good enough. Warranties are money making instruments and keep cars under control, special the ones under credit from Toyota Bank. Chain of events. I run a VW Golf 13 years. No Dieselgate changes. No nox problems, always serviced by me and I always used VWs recommended 05-30 Edge oil. never a froun. I had an issue. Stick to the OEM recommendations. It wears off less. Also don't stick to 15k km oil changes. Do it early. 8500 km. keeps oil clean and healthier. Keeps engine healthier. If one can afford it. I save for it. Don't use new cannisters with dates older than 2 years. Months is better. It pays off.
 
Toyota recomends w-8. It is a first fill oil. Not a run in oil. The max temperature is not the 8 but it is the one beyond the right arrow. Or cold elbow the left arrow. Imagine if it was not. We would all world wide have serious issues. Many years ago, when engines had very large tolerances, we used to tra el in the heat foe hors and occasional, if it got too hot, we would look for a suitable shade, preferably with a breeze, open the bonnet and let the engine cool off. If the coolingvsystem is running well, oul temperatures remain bellwo 90 degrees on petrol engines and 100 on diesel. Toyota hybrids, rum mostly at lower the 90. I run an App or two to check this. And ot it all runs smooth. I use Torque Pro and OBLink with an OBLink MX+ dongle. For the hybrid I run through the same dingle

Not correct. Use 0W-8. If not available use the next grade 0W-16 next oil change revert back to 0W-8. The engines are first filled with the recommended oil.
Recommended because by law, no one can force a client to strictly use a type of oil. That is the only reason. Dealerships use cheaper bulk oils. So they buy 0w-20 bulk. Then tell us that, that is the recommended oil. liars.

Stick to 0w-8. Use a dongle from OBD Link. OBD Link Mx+ or better and OBDLink App. Check oil temperatures there. I also use Torque with the same dongle. Compare outside air temperature with oil temperature and coolant. I have driven my Yaris cross hybrid with 43 degrees temperature. If you drive normally, no racing, no heavy loading, no high speed chasing for too long. That holds steady at 70 to 90 degrees celcius oil temp and 80 coolant. Inntown it is even less due to Stop and start hybrid mode.the oils must be thin to lubricate fast when cold and keep surfaces wet. The rest the engine does it. The board computer does it. TGMO has tons of Mollybdnum and so does Liqui-Molly as well as Ravenol. Mobil 1 0W-8 wich is almost the same as TOGMO with the same grade. There is a lot of money soaked in these oils for any of them not being good enough. Warranties are money making instruments and keep cars under control, special the ones under credit from Toyota Bank. Chain of events. I run a VW Golf 13 years. No Dieselgate changes. No nox problems, always serviced by me and I always used VWs recommended 05-30 Edge oil. never a froun. I had an issue. Stick to the OEM recommendations. It wears off less. Also don't stick to 15k km oil changes. Do it early. 8500 km. keeps oil clean and healthier. Keeps engine healthier. If one can afford it. I save for it. Don't use new cannisters with dates older than 2 years. Months is better. It pays off.
What on earth? It’s just random nonsense.
 

Yes.

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You better obey when warranty is in question, especially with how Toyota is very quick to deny warranty claims. For example they have declined warranty on gr86 rtv issues - which is indisputably a manufacturer defect. They have also denied warranty for tracking the car. Their excuse? I have seen reasons from too much high rpm, track use, or the car not being maintained enough - even on a 7k mileage gr86. Yeah good luck justifying you're using a thicker oil because of extreme use.

You can ask all the "questions" you want. I guarantee you won't win in court over a warranty battle vs. their $1000/hr lawyers and their army of engineers.
Well, this is my opinion, not any facts here, at least no ABSOLUTE facts. Last I heard, if your engine manufacturer denies a warranty claim because you used the wrong version of engine oil, that will work for them if it is not challenged in court. However, if you are willing to go to court, in the USA I am talking, the engine manufacturer has to prove that the exact engine oil you were using was the sole and only cause of the part or parts that failed in that exact engine in your vehicle you own. To get through this, you will need an unlimited number of dollars and another vehicle to drive. Your vehicle with the failed engine will not be usable at-least for months and possibly years. Now, the car manufacturer would have to word their owner's manuals differently if they REQUIRED a certain lubricant be used to keep the warranty. Their manual would have to use words like "is required" or "must be used only" as opposed to wording like "recommended" or "suggested". All this being said, I would suggest following the manufacturers recommended lubricants if you are not extremely wealthy or need your car to actually drive. In the meantime, invent a 08, 16, or 20 weight engine oil with the same film strength and boundary protection as a modern SAE 50 weight. Another option may be to move to Australia or South America. They might allow different engine oils there for the exact same engines. In the meantime, go outside and hug a tree, that seems to be the most important thing these days, over ALL else.
 
Meh at the end of ths day I suspected an oil forum would be more useful seeing that members are supposed to be oil enthusiasts. Instead it's typically forum behavior where people don't understand the context of the thread and comment whatever they want based on personal feelings.


As I have stated before I'm well aware 0w-8 might not be key to longevity but I have no choice for warranty purposes. I also do not dispute the logic of being able to run thicker oils used in other regions on the same motor, but I can't do so until warranty is done. Hence why I'm asking about 0w-8 oils.

Since this thread has devolved into arguments about my warranty rather than my original question I'm out, it's rather exhausting dealing with circular arguments rather than having fruitful discussions.
Go forth and be fruitful!
 
I don't question that logic at all, when it's out of warranty I'll likely be switching over. But the problem is warranty denial and trying to fight a major corporation if anything were to occur.

For instance they'll be like: "ok you used 0w-16 temporarily no problem, but where's the proof you switched back to 0w-8 at the next possible moment?". At that point anyone risking it will be screwed because they won't have any receipts or proof they even attempted to go back to 0W-8.
Is it actually common to get the nth degree interrogation about exact oil type and such in the rare event a Toyota needs an engine oil warranty claim?

Not breaking shoes, just curious. I've mostly kept to spec grade and intervals, but not been married to idea (Usually because of circumstances like time constraints or when I was young and poor having access to close but not exact for almost free (i.e. 50/50 Castrol 5w-30 / Supertech 10w-30)
 
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The O.P. hasn’t been seen since October of ‘24. But here’s what you could do. Buy a 0W8 and a
0w20 at the same time at your favorite autoparts store. Separate transactions so there are two receipts. Then immediately after the transaction you tell the clerk that you screwed up and do not need the 0W8. They issue the refund and they NEVER ask for the receipt back. They might look at you a little funny, but who cares. Now you have a receipt for the 0W8.
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