Motul 300V 5W40 UOA 2011 BMW 328i xDrive

[FlyingTexan]

This version is more suitable for street driving than the previous one, but again, I would use it only if your vehicle is a track animal.
Moab, honestly, is really not challenging for the majority of engines, especially for B58. You are not dealing with extreme altitude and high RPMs for prolonged periods of time. B58 has an overkill cooling system. So regardless of the ambient temperature of 105, at 4,000ft, the question is whether the cooling system is sufficient and it is in your vehicle.
As for oil, IMO, you don't need for Moab 300V or Redline. I personally would get Castrol Edge 0W30 from local Advance Auto Parts and call it a day. Many people underestimate street oils. I ran Mobil1 0W40 on track to 300f, and still did 5k OCI. I ran Castrol 0W40 on track for 1 1/2hrs without stopping at 101f ambient temperature at 5,000ft altitude, and it is track, if I am not cornering, i am at WOT. I did 5k OCI and UOA still returned results on par Castrol Edge 0W30 that I used in winter conditions (Here is UOA after this post).
300V will have additives that are working great at very high temperatures, but during warm up or lower oil temperatures, it won't provide the same level of protection, cleaning abilities etc. as normal street oil. . So OK, in Moab, hypothetically, it will work OK. But in regular driving, oil might leave more deposits in an engine as additives that are used are specifically designed for really high temperatures for prolonged periods of time. I get that price is not an issue, but I am strictly talking here about performance.
Amsoil, like many others has a nice short article about it: https://blog.amsoil.com/use-racing-oil-in-my-daily-driver/
From my understanding, transmission is far bigger issue during extreme off-road than the engine is. I did not do extreme off road, just light to moderate stuff. I would be more focused on transmission temperature and cooling capability.

Now, will 300V destroy your engine? No. If it makes you feel better, run it during Moab trip. But once you are back and using truck for normal daily stuff, I would use normal oil, or change to normal oil during winter.
Here is my UOA of Castrol 0W40 that had extensive track use, sessions as long as 1 1/2hrs, which is really unusual, and Castrol edge 0W30 (one with 4,600mls OCI) used in winter conditions:
View attachment 272873

I get that but again I’m on FCP euro so it’s either basically a $20 bill for a full oil change or start buying off the shelf. I’m just wanting to stick within their options. There’s also Liqui Moly which has all the approvals of LL01, MB229.5, Porsche A40. There’s redline. There’s Motul 8100 as well. The redline as far as smoothness of engine goes has been great and I’ll keep using it then but I just hate working with that **** bottle.

 

[edyvw]

I get that but again I’m on FCP euro so it’s either basically a $20 bill for a full oil change or start buying off the shelf. I’m just wanting to stick within their options. There’s also Liqui Moly which has all the approvals of LL01, MB229.5, Porsche A40. There’s redline. There’s Motul 8100 as well. The redline as far as smoothness of engine goes has been great and I’ll keep using it then but I just hate working with that **** bottle.

Get Motul X-Cess 5W40 GEN2.

 

[svenson]

during warm up or lower oil temperatures, it won't provide the same level of protection, cleaning abilities etc. as normal street oil. .

what defines that it wont protect engine during warm up? it has low enough kv at 40 = 78.7 mm2/s. is there something more?
cleaning abillities? it has tons of additives, is there something more to know?
deposits? yeah a lot of them. but mine personally it wont create a problem to use for an OCI of 5000mls.i mean my engine is not prone to such a problem.

ok , i am spliting hairs .the reason is, i want to use for an OCI is bcs. i need an ester content oil for an OCI. esters said that clean the engine from deposits ,provide sufficient protection ,have lower noack and high flash point and more natural vii so that might help me with the burning oil thing i have, not eliminate it , but make it better.
from using bmw tpt 5-30 to motul xclean+ 5-30 i saw a raise to my OCI by 1000 km.and i think it doesnt contain esters anymore,but it proved better for my problem. maybe it has some ingredients that help to clean the engine better ,who knows.it worked.

so as said an oil with lower noack and high flash point and more natural vii s,an ester oil might help.thus 300v.which i get it its not a full ester anymore but i think its the only one it has still the biggest amount of it.

if doesnt work ,then i will go to xcess gen 2.thats my thought..

 

[svenson]

Higher than Blackstone, but they are not infallible.

which one is the most reliable and infallible in your opinion? is there any? europeans included too.

 

[svenson]

i think i will have my first UOA,thats why i am asking

 

[OVERKILL]

which one is the most reliable and infallible in your opinion? is there any? europeans included too.

Probably one of the big company's in-house labs that we don't have access to? LOL. Given the choice in North America, I would, and do, go with OAI/Polaris. I am not sure what's available in Europe.

 

[edyvw]

what defines that it wont protect engine during warm up? it has low enough kv at 40 = 78.7 mm2/s. is there something more?
cleaning abillities? it has tons of additives, is there something more to know?
deposits? yeah a lot of them. but mine personally it wont create a problem to use for an OCI of 5000mls.i mean my engine is not prone to such a problem.

ok , i am spliting hairs .the reason is, i want to use for an OCI is bcs. i need an ester content oil for an OCI. esters said that clean the engine from deposits ,provide sufficient protection ,have lower noack and high flash point and more natural vii so that might help me with the burning oil thing i have, not eliminate it , but make it better.
from using bmw tpt 5-30 to motul xclean+ 5-30 i saw a raise to my OCI by 1000 km.and i think it doesnt contain esters anymore,but it proved better for my problem. maybe it has some ingredients that help to clean the engine better ,who knows.it worked.

so as said an oil with lower noack and high flash point and more natural vii s,an ester oil might help.thus 300v.which i get it its not a full ester anymore but i think its the only one it has still the biggest amount of it.

if doesnt work ,then i will go to xcess gen 2.thats my thought..

It is a type of additives, not kinematic or dynamic viscosity in this case that matters. Just bcs. it has xyz of something, does not mean it is working in the same manner as xyz in other oil.

 

[FlyingTexan]

When looking at the UOA here at what number should you start being concerned for wear? I see 3ppm and 9ppm but not sure when someone should get worried.

 

[edyvw]

When looking at the UOA here at what number should you start being concerned for wear? I see 3ppm and 9ppm but not sure when someone should get worried.

WHen there is a significant jump between samples. UOA does not mean anything wear wise. What does it mean if one is 9ppm and the other 13ppm? It could be statistical noise, more city driving etc.
UOAs only serve to identify problems when it comes to wear. Significant jump, 9ppm to 29ppm. OK. Chain? Lead or copper that are used in some parts of an engine specifically can lead you to figure out that you have an issue specifically with that part of an engine. For example, until 2011 BMW S65 engines had lead in rod bearings. Elevated lead in UOA and then increasing lead over several UOA< indicates that rod bearings are due for replacement.
So, there is a jump in metals or several UOAs that show a trend in elevated metals.
One UOA of 9ppm or next one of 13ppm does not mean anything. UOA is, first and foremost, an analysis of oil, not engine.

 

[svenson]

It is a type of additives, not kinematic or dynamic viscosity in this case that matters. Just bcs. it has xyz of something, does not mean it is working in the same manner as xyz in other oil.

i am not sure i understand.
how zinc or calcium is working different in different oils? do you have a scientific example?

 

[edyvw]

i am not sure i understand.
how zinc or calcium is working different in different oils? do you have a scientific example?

You cannot take calcium out of the complete equation. Oil is far more than just Zinc and calcium.
How each company suspends additives etc. is their propriety formula.
A scientific example of this is that 300V does not have API approval. It is as simple as that. Oil blender tells you: "don;t use my oil for street driving," and you are: prove me why I should not use YOUR oil for street driving."
Sorry, I just don't get it.

 

[svenson]

You cannot take calcium out of the complete equation. Oil is far more than just Zinc and calcium.
How each company suspends additives etc. is their propriety formula.
A scientific example of this is that 300V does not have API approval. It is as simple as that. Oil blender tells you: "don;t use my oil for street driving," and you are: prove me why I should not use YOUR oil for street driving."
Sorry, I just don't get it.

but it proven ,by you. you guys know so much and we try to get more of it. obviously there is more with oil tech ,and some of us want from you to share your knowledge. but you (not just you) always check base and additives and i dont see any difference on additives than another oil.maybe motul deosnt want to use that oil on streets bcs, they afraid oxidation or something else. .but thats antoher story.
many oils dont have API.ok,whats that has to do with additives as you claim?
if you dont want to split hairs ,go far with this education, then its ok. i am not trying to doubt you, just to learn more.
if you cant tell me or you dont know ,its ok with me.not everyone knows everything.
forget it

 

[edyvw]

but it proven ,by you. you guys know so much and we try to get more of it. obviously there is more with oil tech ,and some of us want from you to share your knowledge. but you (not just you) always check base and additives and i dont see any difference on additives than another oil.maybe motul deosnt want to use that oil on streets bcs, they afraid oxidation or something else. .but thats antoher story.
many oils dont have API.ok,whats that has to do with additives as you claim?
if you dont want to split hairs ,go far with this education, then its ok. i am not trying to doubt you, just to learn more.
if you cant tell me or you dont know ,its ok with me.not everyone knows everything.
forget it

Ok, just go and buy it.

 

[svenson]

Ok, just go and buy it.

very enlightening

 

[edyvw]

very enlightening

Because you are asking the question: can you prove to me that the earth is not flat?

 

[svenson]

300V will have additives that are working great at very high temperatures, but during warm up or lower oil temperatures, it won't provide the same level of protection, cleaning abilities etc. as normal street oil. . So OK, in Moab, hypothetically, it will work OK. But in regular driving, oil might leave more deposits in an engine as additives that are used are specifically designed for really high temperatures for prolonged periods of time. I get that price is not an issue, but I am strictly talking here about performance.

Because you are asking the question: can you prove to me that the earth is not flat?

ask yourself that question, bcs, motul says not to use it as street oil ,but you did it and it was very successful!

and you confirmed that its fine as a daily oil later twice:

an you said its a smooth oil.no problemo here too

and i want to use it the same way.so no problem here too.


and my question is how ,in what way its working different? if you do know that then tell us, explain that to us..if you dont,then its better not to say anything when you place an argument in such a specific question than trying to avoid it with ''poetry''..bcs then you are the one that has to answer if the earth is not flat.

and finally:

How each company suspends additives etc. is their propriety formula.
A scientific example of this is that 300V does not have API approval. It is as simple as that.

the oil i have used many times motul x-clean+ 5-30 is not an API oil, they why is it a street oil? by your words ,it shouldnt..there goes your scientific argument.

dont try to avoid it. if you dont know the answers to a simple question just say you dont know..no one knows everything,you are mortal!
you next answer will be ,as usual when you want to end a conversation and avoid the answer,

as far as i know you can put olive oil etc.etc.

so i will ask you again my simple question based on the above.give a responsible answer or avoid it your way:
i see on your UOA the same additives that a street oil contains,maybe much more than the street oil does.are there any other additives,SECRET, that we dont see to base your opinion on bold? if there are, name them! is the oxidation the reason that motul claims that this should not be used as street oil? but you proved that its ok with it. so since its the same additives how additives work different as you say?

i want to learn ,i am not try to manipulate you ,dont defend ,explain ,unless you dont know and you are just saying...

 

[edyvw]

ask yourself that question, bcs, motul says not to use it as street oil ,but you did it and it was very successful! View attachment 273469
and you confirmed that its fine as a daily oil later twice:

View attachment 273470

View attachment 273471


an you said its a smooth oil.no problemo here too
View attachment 273472
View attachment 273473


and i want to use it the same way.so no problem here too.


and my question is how ,in what way its working different? if you do know that then tell us, explain that to us..if you dont,then its better not to say anything when you place an argument in such a specific question than trying to avoid it with ''poetry''..bcs then you are the one that has to answer if the earth is not flat.

and finally:

the oil i have used many times motul x-clean+ 5-30 is not an API oil, they why is it a street oil? by your words ,it shouldnt..there goes your scientific argument.

View attachment 273476

View attachment 273477


dont try to avoid it. if you dont know the answers to a simple question just say you dont know..no one knows everything,you are mortal!
you next answer will be ,as usual when you want to end a conversation and avoid the answer,


so i will ask you again my simple question based on the above.give a responsible answer or avoid it your way:
i see on your UOA the same additives that a street oil contains,maybe much more than the street oil does.are there any other additives,SECRET, that we dont see to base your opinion on bold? if there are, name them! is the oxidation the reason that motul claims that this should not be used as street oil? but you proved that its ok with it. so since its the same additives how additives work different as you say?

i want to learn ,i am not try to manipulate you ,dont defend ,explain ,unless you dont know and you are just saying...

How do you know it is successful.
I said from the beginning that it is just an oxidation data point. I have no clue what is deposit issue there. And I said I would use it as street/track oil.
I really don’t understand what do you want. You saw all that and what now? Either buy oil and use it or don't. You're looking here for confirmation bias. You want someone else to make a decision for you bcs. you are afraid to make it yourself.
I still have 300V on the shelf. I will use it this summer. Is it gonna leave more deposits in? I have no clue. Probably. But I will use it. Would I put it in someone else's car? No.

 

[svenson]

Either buy oil and use it or don't. You're looking here for confirmation bias. You want someone else to make a decision for you bcs. you are afraid to make it yourself.
I still have 300V on the shelf. I will use it this summer. Is it gonna leave more deposits in? I have no clue. Probably. But I will use it. Would I put it in someone else's car? No.

i didnt ask for a buying advice thank you. and fear its not the thing here .you still change subject.
the thing here is knowledge from an expert.
i want that knowledge bcs. its bitog. to split hairs .what is the difference between additives of 8100 and 300v and how they work differently AS YOU CLAIMED..?? why is it so bad to understand what am i asking? i dont ask bcs of deciding wheter to buy or not but from a knowledge point of view.
but i see that this is as far as you can explain.
never mind!

 

[edyvw]

i didnt ask for a buying advice thank you. and fear its not the thing here .you still change subject.
the thing here is knowledge from an expert.
i want that knowledge bcs. its bitog. to split hairs .what is the difference between additives of 8100 and 300v and how they work differently AS YOU CLAIMED..?? why is it so bad to understand what am i asking? i dont ask bcs of deciding wheter to buy or not but from a knowledge point of view.
but i see that this is as far as you can explain.
never mind!

Of course it can be used on the street. I did. Go do it.
You saw my posts, so not sure what else do you want?

 

[Randomly Tired]

Im planning on getting Motul 300V Competition 5W40 for my FL5 CTR, is this a bad idea?

I was recommended the Mobil 1 ESP 0W40 4X because it has a medium level of detergents and a high cSt. I live in Florida where its hotaf so the 0W part makes me squirm, I'd rather have a 5W oil. Would it really matter?

I know this is overkill for the street and I'd only be using this for the track with some street driving,

I had the Amsoil 5W30 SS but starting cSt isn't that high, its only 11 and the 12 and 13 cSts of Mobil 1 ESP and Motul 300V confer much better protection