edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
It is probably fine, but price wise, I think it is not daily
Motul 300V 5W40 UOA 2011 BMW 328i xDrive
- Thread starter edyvw
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wemay
Site Donor 2023
True!It is probably fine, but price wise, I think it is not daily
If you can get it through FCP Euro it can beIt is probably fine, but price wise, I think it is not daily
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
True.If you can get it through FCP Euro it can be
I mean, it is very smooth oil. For daily use, 5W30 is probably better fit though.
I would still prefer using it as street/track oil. Only reason I used it is that I got 4X5ltr jugs for free.
Is it this? https://www.motul.com/en-US/products/13311?product=MOTUL+300V+COMPETITION+5W-40
Just curious because you listed 4.1cP and the TDS says 4.0.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Ok, 4cP. I think old one was 4.1
If you can get it through FCP Euro it can be
I think this UOA proves it's probably the best oil on FCP euro that comes in 5w40, larger than 1 quart container
. It probably edges out Driven Di40 for this reason alone 
I just realized FCP doesn't carry 300V 5W-50 or 10W-60.I think this UOA proves it's probably the best oil on FCP euro that comes in 5w40, larger than 1 quart container
i am not familiar with the oxidation value.is there a specific calculation procedure that you measure it or you just see if tbn > tan.
there is a 5-30 300v , the best of both worlds
. still pricey though.by the way why someone to choose 5-30 300v vs 5-40 300v. arent they made for the same purpose, track mostly? hths for 5-30 is 3.5 sufficient for track and combined with the a good amount of relative additives
Some labs provide it. You want to monitor change in oxidation value. I believe once you're in the range of +17-25 you should consider changing it. However there is probably more to it than just that. I only know the basics of oil analysis like most on here. General rule though is you have to look at everything. You can have a TBN of 0 and still technically be ok if there is no oxidation. Eventually it will oxidize and go acidic fast bc the base is gone. TAN>TBN also change.i am not familiar with the oxidation value.is there a specific calculation procedure that you measure it or you just see if tbn > tan.
there is a 5-30 300v , the best of both worlds
by the way why someone to choose 5-30 300v vs 5-40 300v. arent they made for the same purpose, track mostly? hths for 5-30 is 3.5 sufficient for track and combined with the a good amount of relative additives
just out of curiosity, were your daily commute ,betwwen short distances ,like 15km top or more than that ?
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Yep, I was doing short distance driving every day. 16km to office, back, grocery runs etc.
some technical questions:
its been said that this motul ester series,5-30,0-40,and mostly their famous 5-40 are bettr for track or at least mixed use.
but as we have seen here it can go well as a street / daily use .
since its not oxidation as prroven is not an issue ,there goes away the fear of esters oxidazing.
it has a lot of additives. i am not an expert on these,but is seems that it has not just wear additives but a lot of cleaning ones.
also all of these oils are in the range of acea HTHS limits 3.5 to 4.0
sp:
oxidation is on limit
has cleaning additives
hths 3.5-4.00
then why the hell doesn't is have an acea approval? is it motul's choice or it was approved for some other reason that i am forgetting concerning acea approvals?
please dont mention the price,i know,there are cheaper street oils.aeven though in europe there isnt such an argument as ''cheap oil".
also synthetics like redline an amsoil or hpl cost almost the same price here in europe.
nd yes 8100 series is better for street use.
its just a question for how things work on oil approvals.
its been said that this motul ester series,5-30,0-40,and mostly their famous 5-40 are bettr for track or at least mixed use.
but as we have seen here it can go well as a street / daily use .
since its not oxidation as prroven is not an issue ,there goes away the fear of esters oxidazing.
it has a lot of additives. i am not an expert on these,but is seems that it has not just wear additives but a lot of cleaning ones.
also all of these oils are in the range of acea HTHS limits 3.5 to 4.0
sp:
oxidation is on limit
has cleaning additives
hths 3.5-4.00
then why the hell doesn't is have an acea approval? is it motul's choice or it was approved for some other reason that i am forgetting concerning acea approvals?
please dont mention the price,i know,there are cheaper street oils.aeven though in europe there isnt such an argument as ''cheap oil".
also synthetics like redline an amsoil or hpl cost almost the same price here in europe.
nd yes 8100 series is better for street use.
its just a question for how things work on oil approvals.
Isn't it way too short a drain interval for it to be approved by anything in Europe?
i forgot longlife!
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
This UOA does not tell us all the picture. What about deposits? OCI, yeah sure, I think BMW OCI requirement is 25,000km. But, there are other variables that might not make it ACEA or API compliant.
I personally would not run this oil on street only. The only reason why I did is that I have bunch of it, and I planned to go to track, but I was just too busy.
If price didn’t matter why wouldn’t you? Is it because it’s a race oil it doesn’t have detergents to clean? Short OCI? What makes it worse? I ask because I see it in FCP and use their program. I’m sure I’ll get flogged for this but I like the can. The RedLine 5w30 seems extremely good but the packaging is the worst I’ve ever dealt with. Small pour spout with a tiny adhesive cover to remove, so hard to do with gloves on, then recapturing the oil makes it very difficult with the tapered top. I have a drain valve/hose that makes it super simple except holding that bottle by its neck with oily gloves is next to impossible. I like the pure synthetic of the 300v, they say it’s designed to work with Cats now, and I already do OCI every 5k or before/after a hard driven off road trip. It’s not track racing by any means but 105+ in Moab in low gear high rpm (at times) in a dirty environment leaves me changing after my trips. I like the Moly and Boron numbers. Seems to have super low NOAK. But I’m know you know a lot more. I figured it was pretty close to redline 5w30 except a lower HTHS (3.5 vs 3.7) and still very potent. So figured it’d be WAY easier just get the cans (and keep a spare in the back) and refill those vs screwing around with the redline and their thin necked, wide bodied, designed to be dropped bottles.
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edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
This version is more suitable for street driving than the previous one, but again, I would use it only if your vehicle is a track animal.
Moab, honestly, is really not challenging for the majority of engines, especially for B58. You are not dealing with extreme altitude and high RPMs for prolonged periods of time. B58 has an overkill cooling system. So regardless of the ambient temperature of 105, at 4,000ft, the question is whether the cooling system is sufficient and it is in your vehicle.
As for oil, IMO, you don't need for Moab 300V or Redline. I personally would get Castrol Edge 0W30 from local Advance Auto Parts and call it a day. Many people underestimate street oils. I ran Mobil1 0W40 on track to 300f, and still did 5k OCI. I ran Castrol 0W40 on track for 1 1/2hrs without stopping at 101f ambient temperature at 5,000ft altitude, and it is track, if I am not cornering, i am at WOT. I did 5k OCI and UOA still returned results on par Castrol Edge 0W30 that I used in winter conditions (Here is UOA after this post).
300V will have additives that are working great at very high temperatures, but during warm up or lower oil temperatures, it won't provide the same level of protection, cleaning abilities etc. as normal street oil. . So OK, in Moab, hypothetically, it will work OK. But in regular driving, oil might leave more deposits in an engine as additives that are used are specifically designed for really high temperatures for prolonged periods of time. I get that price is not an issue, but I am strictly talking here about performance.
Amsoil, like many others has a nice short article about it: https://blog.amsoil.com/use-racing-oil-in-my-daily-driver/
From my understanding, transmission is far bigger issue during extreme off-road than the engine is. I did not do extreme off road, just light to moderate stuff. I would be more focused on transmission temperature and cooling capability.
Now, will 300V destroy your engine? No. If it makes you feel better, run it during Moab trip. But once you are back and using truck for normal daily stuff, I would use normal oil, or change to normal oil during winter.
Here is my UOA of Castrol 0W40 that had extensive track use, sessions as long as 1 1/2hrs, which is really unusual, and Castrol edge 0W30 (one with 4,600mls OCI) used in winter conditions:
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Where do you put Polaris Labs on a reliability scale?I wouldn't consider 6% deviation from indicated viscosity as sheared "0", but then this is also Blackstone, who are notoriously unreliable and don't give accurate fuel dilution figures soIt could just be fuel driving the visc loss or the visc loss figure could also just be wrong.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Higher than Blackstone, but they are not infallible.
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