Motorcraft home brew

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Aug 12, 2003
south texas border
I want to thicken up the mc 20 wt to about 9.0 vis. The honda seems to like its 20 weight best at that vis. So...What do you all think of mixing one quart of mc 5w30 with 2.75 qts of mc 5w20. Do you all think this mixture will result in overall less quality oil than if using all 5w20. I would like your opinions on this. Thanks in advance r. Not interested in going synthetic or going straight 5w30 at this time.
That would thicken it up no doubt [Big Grin] but problem is that the 15w40, as I understand it is G2 only and probably made by valvoline. I wanted the 5w30 because it is probably a g2/3 blend and has a similar add pack. Thanks for the thought though.
So? It is made by conoco. Some other post said that it was a valvoline product. ([email protected]) If that's true, I just might take your advice. The Conoco 15w40 is pretty outstanding. Ran that stuff from cummins 340s to V65 magnas and it performed very well in all cases....
Originally posted by dustyjoe1: So? It is made by conoco. Some other post said that it was a valvoline product. (
Yeah don't believe everything you read on the internet [Big Grin] There is a case here shipped to Walmart 5-16-2004 guessing valvoline first shipped it to Conoco , then Conoco shipped it to Walmart [LOL!] Do you also want to see the MSDS for the Havoline dino oil with the base oils it uses ? [Wink] [ June 29, 2004, 06:38 PM: Message edited by: Motorbike ]
Originally posted by Motorbike: I would mix in some of the Motorcraft 15w-40 for that job in summer . Not alot though or your poridge will be tooo hot [Big Grin]
What is this obsession with thick motor oil? "Thickerer ain't betterer" all the time in every engine. Just because you're in South Texas doesn't mean that you're running extra hot, unless of course you're fleeing the Federales and running to "north" of the border at very high speeds [Roll Eyes] . If your engine was spec'd for 5W-20 run it and do an UOA to see whether it's suited for your engine and driving style. Then do an UOA with a thicker oil and see how it measures up to the 5W-20 in wear and price/usage. Whimsey
I also have a Honda and wanted a 5W-20 towards the high end of the vis. scale. I'm using 1.5 ounces of Schaeffer's 132 per quart of Pennzoil 5W-20, plus a few ounces of Lube Control. I'll have a UOA within a month or two. The Molabrew (3:1 ratio of Schaffers 132 to LC) is well regarded by many here as an additive approach. You might try 6 oz. of 132 and 2-3 oz. of LC with 4-5 quarts of Motorcraft 5W-20. I have gotten my best highway MPG ever adding 132 and LC to the Pennz 5W-20. Also use a little FP. Molakule has good things to say about Schaffers 132, worth looking into.
Just because you're in South Texas doesn't mean that you're running extra hot, unless of course you're fleeing the Federales and running to "north" of the border at very high speeds
Not much chance of that with the U.S. border Patrol camped out at the 13 mile marker from the border. But it does get pretty hot idling in 110 degree waiting for the boys in green to ascertain if you is an "american citizen". [Wink] Actually I do prefer the 20 weights, but seat of the pants tell me that the honda likes it on the high end of the 20 weights. Tried from torco (7.3) to amsoil (8.8) the amsoil though only g3 seemed to work best. I currently am favoring MC but want it to be around 9 rather than 8.5. The molabrew suggested above might be worth looking into also. Sorry bout the long post. r.
I have 2 Hondas and 1 Toyota. Like you, I am interested in the correct oil weight for them. I live in Tennessee so my climate is more moderate than South Texas. After reading numerous posts on BITOG, and considering my family's short-trip driving style, I decided that the best thing is to go for a 5W oil for fastest pump-up on start-up. However, also considering high-temp oil breakdown issues (my '97 Toyota is one of the so-called "sludge motors"), I decided to switch to synthetic M1 5W-30. As I understand it, Synth flows even faster than Dino, and has good high-temp and low-temp stability compared to Dino. This seems like a good choice for all of my cars, even though my newest Honda specifies 5W-20. I am still in the process of switching to M1 (2 of 3 cars switched), but I have already noticed that they run a little quieter at idle, and seem to rev quieter and smoother. I really don't know anything about oil viscosity selections, and have not really learned much on BITOG because of the great passion / opinion on oil thickness. Somebody told me 20 years ago that FILM STRENGTH is what you really need and film strength can be somewhat independent of viscosity. For me, with a lot of stop-and-go driving, I decided that I do not want a thick oil that prohibits the engine from reving freely. Again, M1 seemed to me to be a good choice. The cost of Synth is a serious factor(!), but I think is worth your second consideration. You really do not want to risk thermal breakdown of your oil, as I have, and I do not think that a heavier oil always has a higher thermal breakdown than a thinner oil. This is my opinion only. Best Wishes as you motor along! SWS
I'm using a homebrew of 3 1/2qts MC 5w20, 1qt Mobil 1 T&SUV and a recommended dose of LC. I too wanted to thicken it up a bit. The "preferred weight" for my Subaru is 5w30 but the price of MC and a syn-blend at that was too good great for me pass up and try. So far, the engine sounds the same, gas mileage is same, but my butt-o-meter says acceleration is better. Good luck with your choice....bgin
sws: Thank you for your input. M1 is an excellent oil and you do have a good point. However, two things come to mind which will keep me with the motorcraft. For a 5-6k oci in the honda the MC is sufficient to do the job and it seems to be holding up to the heat. The other is that, perhaps only in my immagination, M1 gives me the impression that it does not allow my vehicle to rev as freely. This may be purely subjective, however, I am the one that has to drive it and I don't like sluggish. Again M1 is an excellent oil.
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