03 4.6l F150 sludge build up
- Thread starter 02supercrew
- Start date
O I never kept up on it after using it twice. Right up there with Duralube.
You misunderstood I am well aware of what HPL is capable of. I was implying that it would be an experiment on how quick it does it with a well sludged engine.
Everyone has their own recipe but here is Castrol GTX.
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Any recommendations on where to find the valvoline restore gen 2 … I don’t see it anywhere online or on Amazon.
I'm not sure. I would call Valvoline.Any recommendations on where to find the valvoline restore gen 2 … I don’t see it anywhere online or on Amazon.
The easier option may be to order HPL EC and one of their oils.
I pulled the trigger on some Liquid Moly Engine flush.
The current fill of 5w30 harvest king ( warren private label oil) and one qt of MMO will have about 800 miles on it this weekend.
Truck is running awesome. No startup tick from the drivers valve cover any more. It’s getting driven daily now with a pair of 10 mi commutes averaging 60mph each day.
Do I add the LM Engine flush on top of the current fill and dump after 20 mins of hot idle or do I dump the oil, fill with new, flush, and the refill with new?
The current fill of 5w30 harvest king ( warren private label oil) and one qt of MMO will have about 800 miles on it this weekend.
Truck is running awesome. No startup tick from the drivers valve cover any more. It’s getting driven daily now with a pair of 10 mi commutes averaging 60mph each day.
Do I add the LM Engine flush on top of the current fill and dump after 20 mins of hot idle or do I dump the oil, fill with new, flush, and the refill with new?
When I first started on BITOG AutoRx was the HPL of the day. You couldn't speak bad of it without an attack. I'm not saying HPL is bad, good, or indifferent, But when something becomes the holy grail on this board...look out.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Nothing wrong with AutoRx, it was an ester-based gentle cleaning product, which provided the same sort of function as Valvoline PBR and HPL's EC, which both take the same approach, but as part of a fully-formulated engine oil rather than a standalone additive. Some people got PO'd that it (AutoRx) didn't rapidly clean their internals to a mirror-like finish, but that was never the purpose of the product.
HPL's engine oils have a lot more ester and AN in them, and are subsequently stronger cleaners. This is why Dave recommends using the EC first, to lessen the odds of prematurely loading up the filter after a changeover.
We've had many "holy grails" over the years on here, with loyal followers and vocal proponents, even some shills. Some have persisted far longer than others, but I believe all still have their cheerleaders to some degree.
Products include, but are not limited to:
- MMO
- Seafoam
- Kreen
- Ceretec
- MOS2
- PYB (it's conventional but secretly made with GTL, it has mythical cleaning properties...etc, this one was wild)
- M1 FS 0W-40
- GC 0W-30
- TGMO 0W-20 (and the "CATERHAM Blend")
Agreed. Every product has it's fans and detractors. I just remember when I started here I tried Arx and it just didn't seem to work for me even though I followed the instructions to the letter. I left bitog for a while when the attacks got personal. I try to stay away from threads with a big following of fans. It's all good!
The '97 F-150 a friend found was a dead man's truck with ~2 years in a garage.
It was known to be a morning coffee clotch truck.
It has the 4.6l.
He spent a month puttering around in that truck, having brakes done and other rusted components replaced, with 3 quarts of ancient oil in the sump.
I thought it was noisy.
I went back and looked at some exchanges with Frank about Auto RX back in the days (04) oddly enough on a 02 Supercrew with the 5.4l.
It brought back memories of the truck. I remember taking pictures after dumping the Auto RX on the cleaning phase…the filters and bottom of the bucket looked exactly like the photos posted some 20 years later of HPL.
I don’t believe the current auto RX formulation is the same as back then.
Bitog was quite different then for sure.
"Add Pro-Line Engine Flush to the engine oil at operating temperature before changing the oil. After adding the product allow the engine to idle for 10 to 15 minutes depending on the degree of contamination. Then change the oil and the filter."
Pro-Line Engine Flush
A highly effective formulation designed for quick and safe removal of deposits in engines before an oil change. Optimizes oil consumption, guarantees proper oil pressure in hydraulically activated systems and ensures proper oil flow after a cold start. Allows the fresh oil to immediately develop...
Man, I remember those GC days, you couldn't even hint it had any fallacies. The risk of being waterboarded by another brands oil was real until you recanted your views, pledged your loyalty to GC, and publicly renounced all other brands.
What a time...
Hey all, bit of an update.
Yesterday day I decided to change the oil after about 800 miles on the MMO and generic 5w30 oil. I did the liquid moly flush.
The valve train on the drivers side was making noise immediately once the flush was dumped in. It did eventually go away, but still it was concerning.
Here is a quick clip from my phone. If there’s tapping, it’s consistently in this area.
Anyway, I dumped the oil, as expected it was crazy black. I let about a cup of oil from the oil filter filter thru a shop rag to see if I could find any debris, but I couldn’t see anything. I’ll try and cut open the filter tomorrow.
I refilled it with Kirkland 5w30 synthetic and a new filter.
Put on about 150 mi this weekend. The valve clatter is still coming periodically.
If the situation doesn’t change or worsens by thanksgiving, I’ll pull the valve covers and replace the lifters and followers at that time.
Yesterday day I decided to change the oil after about 800 miles on the MMO and generic 5w30 oil. I did the liquid moly flush.
The valve train on the drivers side was making noise immediately once the flush was dumped in. It did eventually go away, but still it was concerning.
Here is a quick clip from my phone. If there’s tapping, it’s consistently in this area.
Anyway, I dumped the oil, as expected it was crazy black. I let about a cup of oil from the oil filter filter thru a shop rag to see if I could find any debris, but I couldn’t see anything. I’ll try and cut open the filter tomorrow.
I refilled it with Kirkland 5w30 synthetic and a new filter.
Put on about 150 mi this weekend. The valve clatter is still coming periodically.
If the situation doesn’t change or worsens by thanksgiving, I’ll pull the valve covers and replace the lifters and followers at that time.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
I'd avoid tearing into it and do a run with M1 FS 0W-40 in it. I had good luck with it doing some gentle cleaning in my 5.4L.
I haven’t had chance to cut the filter open yet, but I haven’t heard any more startup rattle this past week going to and from work.
Strange how this is going.
It still has the original transmission and coolant in it yet. I plan on changing those this weekend.
Strange how this is going.
It still has the original transmission and coolant in it yet. I plan on changing those this weekend.
I'll have to try that oil in my 5.4l next round. I didn't know the 2v motors had chain issues if you change the oil and keep it reasonably full. The only racket mine makes are the front catalytic converters. Another known issue since new.
The front cat on my 2002 4.6 rotted, it's amazing how much exhaust came into the cab, it wasn't good
. Sad to say that whole truck rotted rather rapidly, no matter how much I cleaned it and applied rust "deterrent" to the frame and body. It's a shame because I really liked that truck 
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