Motorcraft FL400s startup noise?

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Howdy! I drive a 94 Taurus SHO 3.2 with almost 150k, and have been using Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 and Motorcraft FL400s for the last few oil changes, usually using around a 5-6000 mile OCI. Occasionally on startup, the motor will rev up to around 2-3 grand for a second and I'll hear what sounds like a dry valve noise. This doesn't always happen, and it's usually when the car has sat overnight(but not always). I guess it happens a few times during the week. What is causing this? Is it the oil filter? It's been a while since I've used another brand of filter, and by all accounts the Motorcraft filters are supposed to be of high quality. The car runs well otherwise. Anyways, thanks in advance for any insight.

-Sam
 
The S on 400 should mean silicon ADBV (see red in the little holes?). Is possible to have a bad filter but...

I just replaced some Mobil7500 5W30 which was causing lifter noise. Never had before, never had since. 140K original miles.

I think 10W30 would take care of it. I'll guess hydraulic lifter are original and worn.
 
If you think you have a drain back issue try a FL2005 as that is modified 400 that was developed to solve that problem in 2.0L Zetec Motors.
 
I think I'll try the FL2005 at the next oil change, which is due soon. I just made a 2500 mile round trip in the SHO, so I got to hear it run for a long time. I don't hear that noise any time other than startup. Do you think that I should be using 10w30? It doesn't consume any oil, it just leaks a little (the oilpan is always wet, but it loses maybe a half quart in 5000 miles).

-Sam
 
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Motorcraft FL400s startup noise?




Get a new one. Any filter can have an ADBV leak down. Silicon is just the best bet against it. That is, one swallow does not the summer make.
 
SHO's do not use hydraulic valves/lifters. They use a shim-in-bucket design witch requires adjustment every 60-100k miles. Make sure you are not hearing rod bearing noises upon start-up, as these engines have low-pressure high-volume oil pumps in them; and can be very hard on rod bearings at times. My old '94 ATX SHO had some nasty bearing noise upon startup, but it would go away once pressure hit the bearings.

Perhaps try a Wix filter next time (or now) and see what happens to the noise.
 
This noise has happened with other examples of the FL400s, so I don't think I have a defective filter, unless I've had a few defective filters. Very very occasionally I'll hear a slight tapping noise for a minute as I drive away at a low rpm ( I usually don't give it much idle time to warm up, but I drive it easy until it has). I don't know. I'm just trying to get as much life as I can out of this car. If something major fails on it, it's off to the junkyard.
crushedcar.gif
 
Seems to me several Ford engines have noise to due filter selection. Very picky.

But I'm having brain gas. Is this the Yamaha engine? I thought the 3.0 was the SHO?
 
Sam, you've got some mixed symptoms there that are clouding the isolation of the filter.

Go smaller next time .(FL793-PH3614 size) If the smaller filter eases immediate noise issues, then it's most likely a volume/leak down issue. If it remains, then I'd suspect some attenuation of flow from the pump due to too low a pressure relief setting (or internal leakage) in your oil pump.

If the smaller filter exacerbates the condition, then you can (perhaps) try a bigger filter (if it will fit-FL300/FL1A) and reduce/remove any (totally atypical) restrictive properties that a filter can introduce.

Flow can only be restricted when the oil pump is in relief or has excessive internal leakage. Otherwise the oil has no choice and the filter has ZERO impact on flow.
 
I would try 5W-20 "synthetic"... (perhaps the Motorcraft synthetic at Walmart) with the Motorcraft FL-200 filter. Lets us know if things get quiet.
 
The SHO engine is not back-spec'd for 5w-20..it likes a heavier oil if possible. The 3.0L engine was paired with the manual transaxle and the 3.2L was mated with the automatic.

Since you've heard this noise with a few other filters, and driving away slowly when cold..I hate to say it, but it sounds like a rod bearing issue. This is not totally uncommon with these motors as they reach higher miles. This is also something you can fix with the engine in the car, if you so wish. Depends on how much time and skill you want to put into saving this beast.

www.shoforum.com has great information about your car if you haven't been there already.
 
I have already invested way too much time and money into this car. It's been in the family since 96, owned by my granny, and she gave it to me at about 100k when it needed a timing belt, waterpump, valvecover gaskets(should've done the valve adjustment then, but I was pressed for time and the shims were in good shape) balljoints, springs and struts all around.. transmission.. the list is endless. The car,and myself, are from Mass, and has an extreme amount of rust under the pretty plastic rocker panel skirts (which i wasn't aware of when I poured all the other money into it). The bleeding has to stop! I've moved to the south now, and I'm very excited in finding a beautiful rust free car. So, I guess I'll try some different filters, some heavy oil, and leave it at that. Virtuoso, you say these cars like heavy oil if possible. I work for Firestone, and can get Kendall GT1 full synthetic in a 5w-40 for about $2/ quart. Should I try that with a quality filter? (Our Firestone branded filters are E-cores, I'm not so sure about them). Or any other suggestions.. Anyways, thanks for the advice.

-Sam
 
Quote:


Seems to me several Ford engines have noise to due filter selection. Very picky.

But I'm having brain gas. Is this the Yamaha engine? I thought the 3.0 was the SHO?





Yea, this is the Yamahopper-built motor. In '96 they went to a V-8 3.4 liter 32 valve version. A great motor......when it didn't need maintenance or if the cams held together. When the cams slipped, you are possibly looking at a $15,000 repair bill from the dealership because of piston to valve destruction. Getting back to original subject, there is probable connecting rod bearing slop as these used shims and not hydraulic lifters in the valve train.
 
The 3.4 liter V8 has heads made by Yamaha, the rest of the motor is a Duratec with two extra cylinders.. I've driven a few of them. I love the rumble they have at low rpms, but the interior isn't any nicer than a regular uplevel Taurus, they have that silly looking tiny spoiler, and the silly looking jellybean interior. That's the attraction of the older SHO's for me. They look better than a plain jane Taurus, and the interior has some ---- comfortable seats, a sweet JBL stereo (which I would've kept in mine if the cd player didn't die), auto climate control.. It was a nice car. I'd like to find a gen I model with the 5 speed(I guess all of the gen 1s are manual), but I don't see too many of them here in TN. I saw a lot more in the north. Anyways, I guess that's it.

-Sam
 
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The 3.4 liter V8 has heads made by Yamaha, the rest of the motor is a Duratec with two extra cylinders..




Really? I've got two new 3.4 engine blocks in my garage. If purchased from the Ford dealer these go for $16K. Yep, that's sixteen thousand dollars. (I didn't get these from the dealer, BTW) They say on the side of the crate "Made in Japan". So Duratec has these aluminum blocks made in Japan?? When did they move their tooling over there?
 
Quote:


The 3.4 liter V8 has heads made by Yamaha, the rest of the motor is a Duratec with two extra cylinders..




Sam, a little research tells me that the blocks were rough cast in the Windsor, Ontario foundry and then were shipped to Japan for machining and assembly at the Yamaha plant. They were THEN shipped back to the USA. So I guess we were both right....but I still say the blocks were Yamaha built.
;-)
Guess I learned something today.
 
The v6s are entirely Yamaha, made in Japan and shipped to Ford for installation. So I've read on various SHO websites, anyways. What do you need with two 3.4s? You could build yourself a neat dune buggy; I've seen some ad for a builder that'll make you one with a SHO engine (3.0 manual, I'd assume), a Northstar, a WRX engine. Any of those could be fun..

-Sam

-Sam
 
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