Searching for a single oil to run in three cars spanning 33 years of age…

So... using the lubrizol oil spec comparison tool, I think MB229.5 represents a fairly reasonable "cross section" between your oil requirements. I would be comfortable running a 0W40 or 5W40 meeting MB229.5 in your 3 vehicles personally.
 
So... using the lubrizol oil spec comparison tool, I think MB229.5 represents a fairly reasonable "cross section" between your oil requirements. I would be comfortable running a 0W40 or 5W40 meeting MB229.5 in your 3 vehicles personally.
Most if not all (?) of the popular Euro oils that have the VW502 00 also have MB229.5, Porsche A40, and BMW LL-01 so back to...just use the LM LLHT 5W40 and be done with it.
 
That is also on the thinner side of approved 40 grade Euro oils.
The estimated HTHS is around 3.8. I believe the last known SN datasheet that contained HTHS for the PP Euro / Shell Helix Ultra was 3.88. I'm not sure I'd call that thin, it's barely below Ravenol VST.
 
The estimated HTHS is around 3.8. I believe the last known SN datasheet that contained HTHS for the PP Euro / Shell Helix Ultra was 3.88. I'm not sure I'd call that thin, it's barely below Ravenol VST.
Regardless It's almost a 30 grade. In fact my BS VOA showed it was a 30 🤣. That's what my comment was addressing.
 
Regardless It's almost a 30 grade. In fact my BS VOA showed it was a 30 🤣. That's what my comment was addressing.
Does KV100 even matter though?

I guess shear implies decreasing HTHS also but not sure if it’s always by a corresponding percentage.
 
The BITOG Hive Mind loves to ask the OP "why not X" as if something is implied, and to try to get you to say all the reasons that are going through your mind of "why not" so that they can systematically make you out to look like an idiot, rather than just answer the original question with a recommendation.

It's actually sick, and this forum needs to cut it out. My advice... don't try to answer "why not" with any rational thoughts.... ;)

For people that claim to be so data driven, it's amazing how much data is ignored by 'les Champions'

Most any oil between a 5-20 and a 5-40 will run just about any gasoline powered street car just fine. Data says to change it between 5k and 7k miles if it's a diluter or a tower, and that most other off the shelf oils in non-diluters are good for at least 10k miles.

Yet ask the questions like OP gets and 20 different people will tell you why "this particular 5-40 is the best option and other weights and brands are simply inferior because...."

You want a universal oil? You don't live in Antarctica or whatever planet Luke Skywalker had to crawl inside of his gutted Cameluffallo? You don't beat on your sh....t... Run a good Euro 5-30......

You beat on it? Run a good 5-40. You do a combination of the 2 and want 1 oil to rule them all? Data (the millions of "look at my UOA/borescope/under the cover" posts here, there, and everywhere else in between") suggests that a good 5-40 won't kill a 5-30 spec plant.

One of these days I'll get booted for pointing this out, but hopefully not today ;)
 
Regardless It's almost a 30 grade. In fact my BS VOA showed it was a 30 🤣. That's what my comment was addressing.
Now now. I saw someone get all "put on blast" earlier this week because it's "either a dadfum 30 or a dadfum 40" so there can't be any of this 'almost' nonsense. Common sense and words like 'almost' have no place here. Go back to drooling over your swag bag!

Or bring back Bingo. I liked Bingo....
 
We currently own three Volkswagens.

1990 8v 1.8 L Cabriolet with 44,000 original miles.
2004 R32 with a 3.2 L VR6 - spec VW 502
2019 Golf R - spec VW 504 0w30 on engine bay sticker, but owners manual mentions the use of 5w30 or 5w40 as okay.

AFAIK the ‘90 has always had 20w50 Dino oil and was dealer serviced through 2009 when it was mostly parked, it was dealer serviced and then driven for about 6 months in 2016. We got it in 2017.

Been running LM LLHT 5w40 in the R32.
Been running VWs 0w30 from the parts counter sticking to the engine bay sticker.

I drive the absolute piss out of the R32 most of the time. I’m always throttle/rev heavy becuse VR6 noises.

Drive the Golf R hard a couple times a month in the mountains and occasionally get on it hard around town but mostly not.
The MK1 mostly sits, gets about 1500 miles a year.

I am looking for a single oil that would be great to use in all 3 so I’m only buying one oil. I’m guessing there’s a 5w30 that would be a great choice to use in all 3 but my primary concern is the MK1 as the chart in the owners manual, along with some bold type, indicate a 5w30 is usable but not recommended for longer or high speed drives… we do some longer drives in it from time to time. (Attaching the spec chart).

Live in SF Bay Area. Coldest start I’ve had in 10 years here was in 22°F. Seen temps as high as 118°F on the road while driving but only a couple weeks a year if ever.

What’s my silver bullet oil here, BITOG hive mind? Thank you!

View attachment 190726
Just use a 5w30 C3.that should cover all your vehicles.
 
my vote is for mobil 1FS 0w40 for the 2009 & 2019 (if it meets their API requirement)
For the 1990, the engine may burn oil with the 0w40. You can try it but if this is a problem, then Mobile 15w50.
My 1990 golf 16V ran on mobil 10w50 FS exclusively for >200kmiles ofvery fast driving without a glitch
 
Now now. I saw someone get all "put on blast" earlier this week because it's "either a dadfum 30 or a dadfum 40" so there can't be any of this 'almost' nonsense. Common sense and words like 'almost' have no place here. Go back to drooling over your swag bag!

Or bring back Bingo. I liked Bingo....
Ok - my VOA says 30 hahahahaha

It's been a while since the bingo card has reared its ugly head...you may have motivated me.
 
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