Motorcraft Filter run on Cub Cadet 22hp Kohler. Atrocious

[Gasbuggy]

I recently commented that I don't think cheap oil filters should go on mowers because they run so much hotter
compared to a regular vehicle, someone was using a fram orange can on one.

Well, this Motorcraft has maybe 40-50 hours on it and looks awful.

This is off a 07 Cub Cadent GT2544 with 780 hours on the original engine. It leaks oil from the rear main and is kept topped off with 10w60 Valvoline VR1 to minimize the leak.

The filter was seriously crispy inside.

 

[MParr]

40-50 hours on this oil filter?
I’ve cut open filters from my Kohler at 100 hours and they looked better than that.

 

[Gasbuggy]

I put it on last year, the tractor cuts an acre. This thing runs hot. Temp gun on the filter will show well into the 300s.

The new filter, label burned off on the first cut. Never saw that before on a car, even when it's near long tube headers

 

[BrendanC]

i think you should fix the rear main seal, move to a fully synthetic media filter: endurance, OG ultra/titanium or purolator boss and go with a good 15w-40 HDEO.

 

[Jetronic]

I put it on last year, the tractor cuts an acre. This thing runs hot. Temp gun on the filter will show well into the 300s.

The new filter, label burned off on the first cut. Never saw that before on a car, even when it's near long tube headers

I'd fit an oil cooler.

 

[53' Stude]

I recently commented that I don't think cheap oil filters should go on mowers because they run so much hotter
compared to a regular vehicle, someone was using a fram orange can on one.

Well, this Motorcraft has maybe 40-50 hours on it and looks awful.

This is off a 07 Cub Cadent GT2544 with 780 hours on the original engine. It leaks oil from the rear main and is kept topped off with 10w60 Valvoline VR1 to minimize the leak.

The filter was seriously crispy inside.

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Nasty. What filter went back on?

 

[MParr]

I put it on last year, the tractor cuts an acre. This thing runs hot. Temp gun on the filter will show well into the 300s.

The new filter, label burned off on the first cut. Never saw that before on a car, even when it's near long tube headers

I cut 3 acres every week. Mine never look like that at 100 hours.
Are your engine cooling fins clean? I imagine that your engine is overheating. The engine cooling fins are probably caked with oil and grass clippings. That’s not a good thing in the long run.

 

[MParr]

I'd fit an oil cooler.

I’d fix the oil leak and clean the engine first.

 

[MParr]

i think you should fix the rear main seal, move to a fully synthetic media filter: endurance, OG ultra/titanium or purolator boss and go with a good 15w-40 HDEO.

+1 and clean the caked up oil and grass clippings from the engine.

 

[oil pan 4]

I put it on last year, the tractor cuts an acre. This thing runs hot. Temp gun on the filter will show well into the 300s.

The new filter, label burned off on the first cut. Never saw that before on a car, even when it's near long tube headers

If you're hitting 300s for the oil temperature good call on the 60 weight oil.
The plus side, you won't ever have to worry about fuel dilution.
Definitely run the biggest oil filter you can fit up in there.

 

[Brian123]

I put it on last year, the tractor cuts an acre. This thing runs hot. Temp gun on the filter will show well into the 300s.

The new filter, label burned off on the first cut. Never saw that before on a car, even when it's near long tube headers

https://www.walmart.com/ip/2024-Bla...p.ds&msclkid=a5e5e683a89b1bf631e0804717082f66

Hopefully the item I am showing you will help you out for a while. I do not know if a more expensive oil filter will do better. I read in another thread where you said you took the Grille off this mower. Maybe try taking the hood off, maybe you are sucking in some hot exhaust back into the engine or your carburetor or ignition timing or valves are out of spec. I know you have an oil leak.

Good Luck

 

[mrsilv04]

Yet another reason for liquid cooling for 20+ hp garden tractors.

 

[Lubener]

I never had an orange can look that bad from my 24 hp Briggs. even at 100 hours.

 

[oil pan 4]

I never had an orange can look that bad from my 24 hp Briggs. even at 100 hours.

Yeah orange cans of death always did fine on mowers. I don't think mowers make enough flow to build enough pressure to crush even a poorly made filter.

 

[thastinger]

My 2014 810cc commercial turf engine has had FL400s filters since new, no issues and they don't get cooked...but the engine has a factory oil cooler.

 

[Gasbuggy]

I cut 3 acres every week. Mine never look like that at 100 hours.
Are your engine cooling fins clean? I imagine that your engine is overheating. The engine cooling fins are probably caked with oil and grass clippings. That’s not a good thing in the long run.

I've been down that road, doesn't seem to make much difference. I have the whole grill and fascia out to keep more air on it. Need to pull the engine out to replace the rear main and it's low on my priority list, no oil leaks until the engine has been running for 30-40 minutes, by then, almost done cutting. As I understand it this engine is already past it's normal life expectancy. I bought an identical cub mower for $400 with 250 hours on it, I gave it to my little brother.

 

[tnt_motorsports]

Yikes, my little 15HP Kohler on my JD LT150 never looks like that. I use HDEO 5w40.

I suspect the 10w60 is causing extra heat leading to the excess oil temperatures and other issues. Maybe try a lower viscosity oil to see if it improves. The only real fix for an oil leak is a mechanical repair. Viscosity buys time, but I think in this case it might be causing more damage...

Just my $0.02

 

[Gasbuggy]

Nasty. What filter went back on?

a Super Tech ST16 I had sitting around. It's a bit larger.

 

[jim302]

If you are looking for better filters due to concerns over high heat, I would stay away from most of the OPE specific filters. Every one I have cut has been of the most basic construction, and always at a premium price. A WIX/NAPA Gold looked exactly like the ProSelect/ProTec filters on the inside and it had a nitrile rubber combo valve. I have also run into the really basic Champ design with the clicker style bypass. Nothing premium about these. Nothing wrong with them either, other than the price.

What you are seeing here, however, is abnormal. Nothing I have pulled with 50 or 100 hours has looked anywhere near this bad. In fact they all looked completely normal. The burnt label is also a clue that something is wrong here. All of my labels have been fine aside from maybe a little fading from exposure to sun light.

 

[MParr]

Give us an update when it blows.