Kohler Command 21 Running too hot? 280-300 degrees

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Gasbuggy

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Aug 26, 2009
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This is on a Cub Cadet GT2544. It runs well, 650 hours, 2008 model bought new by my dad. Always gets blown off with air so there isn't grass build-up. I took the grill out of the front to get more air moving. When I did the oil change this year I cross-referenced to an STP filter and the labels melted off it after the first use. I grabbed my temp gun and I'm seeing solid 275-300 temps around the engine and on the filter housing. It has always had an occasional backfire when shutting down, which has been happening less frequently as it aged, does not smell rich at all though. Always has 93 octane in it.

I don't know much about these small engines but I would like to get the temps down. I'd like it to last as long as possible.
 
All you can do is make sure the engine is clean of debris and accumulated oily residue which can hold heat. Not much else you can do with it. If the fuel mix is not correct, that could contribute to higher temps and the occassional backfire. I would not be taking any grills or shrouds off as these do help keep debris out and temperatures down.

I don't know why you are using 93 octane in it as it is not needed.
 
Use the proper grade of engine oil also. Air cooled engines rely on the cooling fan and clean cooling fins on the cylinder to keep them at proper operating temperatures and the oil must be able to absorb and dissipate heat at the proper rate in order to equalize temperatures. If you use too thin of oil then it won't absorb enough heat and you'll experience overheating. If you use too thick of oil then it won't absorb heat fast enough or dissipate that heat fast enough and you'll have a hot running engine.

Clean the debris from the cooling fins and make sure the vanes on the flywheel are clean and install the proper oil and that's about all you can do.
 
You have to remove the plastic shroud on top of the motor off and clean the built up grass out of there. The cooling fins are under that shroud and they tend to accumulate grass that compressed air or a blower won't get out. It's one of the most important things you can do, honestly, and like @Lubener said absolutely do not run the mower without the shroud on.

Run 10w-30/SAE30/15w-40 and keep the air filter and cooling fins clean and it'll last plenty long. I have two mowers from the early 90s with Kohler Commands that are over 2000 hours and they still run perfectly. I mow a lot and usually take the shroud off once a year. It's always pretty well caked with grass in there.
 
I have done that. I had an aluminum bore 11 hp briggs that ran for 29 years with untold hours, probably 100 hours a year. When the mower was unfixable was just starting to burn oil, had to add every use. Removed blower housing and the tin that ran around the cylinder. Cab was so worn it would no longer idle.

Rod
 
I have the similar tractor but newer version '13 GTX1052 with the big 27hp Kohler, you need to periodically remove the plastic shroud from the engine so you can get to the whole top of the motor and blow off good, check plugs making sure carburation is on and the right spark plugs are being used, also using a good quality synthetic is a must IMO just because these engines run hot, Kohler usually specs 10w30 and always run engine at WOT when mowing.

I don't have a problem with overheating.
 
My whole life we ran 93 in all the lawn equipment, I just assumed that was the right thing to do. And man, I've cut alot of grass. The 87 octane should in theory run cooler. That might be enough to normalize this things. Everything is getting 87 now.
 
Sounds about normal temperature for an air cooled engines, I'm familiar with. When I worked for a tractor company back in the 60s, we used thermo cut-off switches bolted to the head of our air cooled engines. The switches were set at 400F and were not adjustable. Ed
 
Gasbuggy said:
My whole life we ran 93 in all the lawn equipment, I just assumed that was the right thing to do. And man, I've cut alot of grass. The 87 octane should in theory run cooler. That might be enough to normalize this things. Everything is getting 87 now.
Click to expand...
In and of itself the octane rating of gasoline does not cause it to burn hotter, cooler, slower, faster or leave less or more deposits. It has nothing to do with any of those things.
 
Interesting.....My 24hp briggs, after a 2 hr cut at wot, I can almost hold my hand on the filter. Never have put a temp gun on it, will have to do that. I use 91 as its the only one up here with no ethanol. If you use reg. with 10%, seems you are always having carb issues. I dont use stabilizer, etc , put park all my stuff, and its never an issue now.
 
my air cooled deere's see 300ish IIRC.
I'll have to take the temp gun with me tomorrow.
 
kschachn said:
In and of itself the octane rating of gasoline does not cause it to burn hotter, cooler, slower, faster or leave less or more deposits. It has nothing to do with any of those things.
Click to expand...


Higher octane in an engine not tuned for it acts like a timing retard which should have some effect on egts.
 
Gasbuggy said:
Higher octane in an engine not tuned for it acts like a timing retard which should have some effect on egts.
Click to expand...
From your explanation, sounds like your not getting the full potential out of your engine and leaving horse power on the table.

You haven't mentioned whether you ever removed the engine's cover to make sure debris is not blocking cooling fins. Blowing off the engine is not going to clean this. If from what you mentioned by removing the screen/grill from the engine will allow more debris to collect under the engine's cover.
 
Last edited:
When you go to shut it down, let it idle for 1 or 2 minutes. This will cool down engine & oil and should help
with backfire. If engine has an oil cooler, check inlet side for debris. The engine on my ZTR runs 260F+ all
the time.
 
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