Hey Guys! Here is a question for you. All marketing aside it seems that most modern oils such as Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, and even Castrol perform fairly well. I have never heard of an engine failing on any of these oils. That said does anyone know of any horror stories where the OIL specifically destroyed an engine through sludge or a lubricate failure. I have seen many posts debating Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Valvoline SynPower, Edge and so forth but has any modern oil ever caused an engine failure that you know of? Thanks.
Motor Oil Horror...
- Thread starter rewote500
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yes. stay away from "Savings Plus" motor oil sold at pathmark. it could be that the car was on it's way out, anyway, but this stuff certainly didn't help lol.
Between race engines, fleet service vehicle engines, and high performance engines, I have never seen engine failure caused by the choice of oil as long as the proper weight and grade recommended by the engine manufacturer/builder was used and the recommended OCI was observed.
I've seen many engine failures due to sludge build up caused by the owners refusing to change the oil anywhere approaching the manufacturer's OCI. In the '60s I used to see engine failures when daily drivers replaced 80% of their recommended oil capacity with STP or Motor Honey to keep a "smoker" on the road a little longer. Most of my fleet vehicle rebuilds were due to low or no oil problems because the drivers were too lazy to check the oil level every fill up. At the track, almost all of the engine failures I've seen were due to either oil starvation caused by inadequate drain back/pan capacity/g-forces, or components exceeding their design limitations and letting go at high RPM.
Now, I have seen engines seize on the dyno when owners tried to squeeze an extra 5-10 HP from their engines using a thinner racing/qualifying oil than recommended by the engine builder just trying to test the proven theorum that thin oil/wide clearances = blown engines.
I've seen many engine failures due to sludge build up caused by the owners refusing to change the oil anywhere approaching the manufacturer's OCI. In the '60s I used to see engine failures when daily drivers replaced 80% of their recommended oil capacity with STP or Motor Honey to keep a "smoker" on the road a little longer. Most of my fleet vehicle rebuilds were due to low or no oil problems because the drivers were too lazy to check the oil level every fill up. At the track, almost all of the engine failures I've seen were due to either oil starvation caused by inadequate drain back/pan capacity/g-forces, or components exceeding their design limitations and letting go at high RPM.
Now, I have seen engines seize on the dyno when owners tried to squeeze an extra 5-10 HP from their engines using a thinner racing/qualifying oil than recommended by the engine builder just trying to test the proven theorum that thin oil/wide clearances = blown engines.
Originally Posted By: MrBeachcomber
Now, I have seen engines seize on the dyno when owners tried to squeeze an extra 5-10 HP from their engines using a thinner racing/qualifying oil than recommended by the engine builder just trying to test the proven theorum that thin oil/wide clearances = blown engines.
Uh-oh! Big time sacrilege here! How dare you even indirectly question the sanctified, higher thoughts that thin oil is the greatest thing ever for all applications? You are treading on real thin ice here (you are about to find out), and you won't make it into 0W-5 Heaven when you die!
Now, I have seen engines seize on the dyno when owners tried to squeeze an extra 5-10 HP from their engines using a thinner racing/qualifying oil than recommended by the engine builder just trying to test the proven theorum that thin oil/wide clearances = blown engines.
Uh-oh! Big time sacrilege here! How dare you even indirectly question the sanctified, higher thoughts that thin oil is the greatest thing ever for all applications? You are treading on real thin ice here (you are about to find out), and you won't make it into 0W-5 Heaven when you die!
0w5 heaven. LOL, that gave me my laugh for the day!
No stories here either. ALthough, I DID hear one story where a guy that did regular track days said a given oil made him lose an engine.......although, I found out later that he had had his rev limiter removed.
No stories here either. ALthough, I DID hear one story where a guy that did regular track days said a given oil made him lose an engine.......although, I found out later that he had had his rev limiter removed.
I once bought some off-brand 2-stroke oil from Big Lots. Only $0.59/quart! What a Deal! Premix or Injector compatible!
I never got around to using it, until cold weather set in. At 34-deg. F I opened the bottle and went to add it to a Chonda scooter's resivoir and nothing came out.
I quickly moved the bottle to the drain pan and when it did finally come out, it was the consistency of Molasses!
If i'd used that stuff in my engine, it would've been very bad.
I never got around to using it, until cold weather set in. At 34-deg. F I opened the bottle and went to add it to a Chonda scooter's resivoir and nothing came out.
I quickly moved the bottle to the drain pan and when it did finally come out, it was the consistency of Molasses!
If i'd used that stuff in my engine, it would've been very bad.
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dont buy biglots oil,buy the best at a auto parts place
If we're talking MODERN oils, then, no. While some are certainly better than others, I wouldn't be afraid of any SL/SM oil causing damage.
One must be aware, though, that SA oils are sold right along side modern oils on store shelves. A person who doesn't pay attention to such things could pick this up and use it. This could certainly cause damage in a modern engine.
One must be aware, though, that SA oils are sold right along side modern oils on store shelves. A person who doesn't pay attention to such things could pick this up and use it. This could certainly cause damage in a modern engine.
I saw an Olds 350 diesel destroyed directly by Sears spectrum oil. Owner insisted on using it even though the can specifically stated "not for diesel engines".
So, yes the oil destroyed the engine, but really the owner destroyed it.
So, yes the oil destroyed the engine, but really the owner destroyed it.
Originally Posted By: CourierDriver
dont buy biglots oil,buy the best at a auto parts place
My local Biglots sell Kendall Oil... Nothing wrong with that.
dont buy biglots oil,buy the best at a auto parts place
My local Biglots sell Kendall Oil... Nothing wrong with that.
Regular conventional oils are fine to use in 99% of applications. However, synthetics do perform better. Are they worth the extra cost? definitely not! Do we on this site care? definitely not!
Originally Posted By: sw99
Originally Posted By: CourierDriver
dont buy biglots oil,buy the best at a auto parts place
My local Biglots sell Kendall Oil... Nothing wrong with that.
I think he means biglots brand oil, If they even make it. You are right, however, kendall is a good oil!
Originally Posted By: CourierDriver
dont buy biglots oil,buy the best at a auto parts place
My local Biglots sell Kendall Oil... Nothing wrong with that.
I think he means biglots brand oil, If they even make it. You are right, however, kendall is a good oil!
Originally Posted By: af0h
I once bought some off-brand 2-stroke oil from Big Lots. Only $0.59/quart! What a Deal! Premix or Injector compatible!
I never got around to using it, until cold weather set in. At 34-deg. F I opened the bottle and went to add it to a Chonda scooter's resivoir and nothing came out.
I quickly moved the bottle to the drain pan and when it did finally come out, it was the consistency of Molasses!
If i'd used that stuff in my engine, it would've been very bad.
Wonder if any straight 30 weight is like that cold. Been years since I have seen any.
I once bought some off-brand 2-stroke oil from Big Lots. Only $0.59/quart! What a Deal! Premix or Injector compatible!
I never got around to using it, until cold weather set in. At 34-deg. F I opened the bottle and went to add it to a Chonda scooter's resivoir and nothing came out.
I quickly moved the bottle to the drain pan and when it did finally come out, it was the consistency of Molasses!
If i'd used that stuff in my engine, it would've been very bad.
Wonder if any straight 30 weight is like that cold. Been years since I have seen any.
Years ago, worn cylinder bores, worn camshafts, and sludge [a little or a lot] were not uncommon.
I'd have to say the oil was a primary cause of this, back then.
More recently, these symptoms are greatly diminished. OK, some is in engine design and mfrg. techniques, but oil is certainly doing it's job .
I'd have to say the oil was a primary cause of this, back then.
More recently, these symptoms are greatly diminished. OK, some is in engine design and mfrg. techniques, but oil is certainly doing it's job .
Originally Posted By: labman
Wonder if any straight 30 weight is like that cold. Been years since I have seen any.
I forgot what brand it was that I bought for 59-cents a quart, but not a major brand - not 'Biglots' brand either.
Sure was bad stuff when it turned cold though...
I wish my local store had Kendall Oil!
Wonder if any straight 30 weight is like that cold. Been years since I have seen any.
I forgot what brand it was that I bought for 59-cents a quart, but not a major brand - not 'Biglots' brand either.
Sure was bad stuff when it turned cold though...
I wish my local store had Kendall Oil!
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