More MPG desired; 0w20 over OEM suggested 5w30?

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A tune up, properly inflated tires, and relaxed driving style may increase MPG, maybe by a few decimals though. It's a big V8 after all so you're not exceed EPA ratings.

I've been running 0W20 in my work truck 02 Chevy Silverado 5.3L LM7 for 5 years since I got the truck used. Engine hasn't grenaded yet from hard use and UOA's don't show anything abnormal.
 
Originally Posted By: Evili
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
You'd be better off inflating your tires to the maximum recommended sidewall pressure...


Not a great idea. The max inflation pressure on the sidewall is a safety thing, and has nothing to do with any particular vehicle's weight and load. Stick to the manufacturer's recommended inflation pressure. Over inflation will cause the tread to "crown", and result in increased tread wear.
Depends on what he is hauling, & whether it's 4WD or not-the Ram in my sig will wear the side tread off the front tires unless I run at least 70 PSI in them (10 ply), the rears usually do well with 55 empty. If he's hauling a lot of weight in a 4WD he could run max sidewall pressure all the way around, & if he's running P-rated passenger tires it'll need to be close to max to handle any weight. This isn't a passenger car.
 
Try it and see what happens. Many here tow the party line and take all they hear as gospel.
That is the only way to know.
 
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
When and if you replace the tires on the truck, choose tires touting low rolling resistance.


+1

Tires and the way you inflate them will have WAY more influence on MPG. Low rolling resistance tires at the door frame max inflation will get you 3 or 4 times the MPG increase of a lube change in the engine. The 0w30 AFE might be helpful ...

Also the differential oil is a big contributor. Does the truck have Posi? If not and you can stand a wee bit of whine (?), you might look at Redline MTL for the differential. It's thinner than hypoid oil, but will protect as well.

I have friends that run ATF in the differential to get better mileage. It works, but a bit too noisy for me...

Also change the transmission fluid. Automatic transmissions are mostly parasitic where the pump is concerned. Go to the lightest ATF approved for your transmission.

All this will net you more than the engine oil change ...
 
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I'd go with Valvoline Maxlife full synthetic 0w20, M1 0w20 High Mileage oil if the truck doesn't see severe service(towing). Both are around $10 per jug after rebate. For an oil filter Fram Tough Guard or Ultra.
 
As everyone has noted above, going to a thinner grade will yield no benefits that you'll actually see. It may yield engine wear that you won't see but may eventually experience the results of.
OTOH, you could drive more economically and easily see a 10% improvement in fuel economy.
As was said back in the fuel crisis of the early seventies, a less politically correct time, the greatest improvement in fuel economy comes from the nut behind the wheel.
It's as true now as it was then.
 
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Get a scanguage or Ultragauge and you can knock 10-20% off your fuel bill depending on what your habits are now.


+1

The single biggest difference you can make in fuel economy is how you use your right foot. UG or SG can give you near-instant feedback on your right foot's impact on fuel economy.

My UG paid for itself in fuel savings after about 5000 miles.
 
Originally Posted By: sprite1741
Find an ethanol free station and stick with it. My 5.3 went up 1.5 mpg but it took a few tank fulls before I saw the improvement. It's the same price as the adulterated stuff but because of the better mileage it's a better buy. http://pure-gas.org/ has a list of stations.


That is ok, if any better mpg offsets the usual higher cost. It doesn't in my area. The difference in price between E10 and E0 is such that it would take a full 3 mpg improvement with E0 just to break even. I don't see that happening in most situations.

On the tire inflation issue, running too high of inflation, tire wear is just one aspect. Safety is jeopardized as well. If the tire is not inflated properly to the loading on the tire, braking, traction, and cornering can be negatively affected. It seems pretty stupid to put ones self and others in danger for the hopeful gains of some mpg by over inflating tires. Choosing the right tires does have an effect on mpg. Different tires and tread designs have lower rolling resistance than others.

Dozens of fleet studies on this issue, shows that the driver alone accounts for nearly 33% in fuel economy difference. Better to concentrate on overall driving style to improve mpg.
 
Note, I said door post inflation which is the MFG's upper limit for breaking, and handling ...

But you are absolutely right. It's the driver.

Problem is I've been addicted to acceleration and speed since I was a kid. I don't do it in daily drivers (much), but on the bike - yea haw, move over brother
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The 5.3 never was, or will be a mileage queen. Stick with the 5w30 and ease up on the skinny pedal. If it makes you feel any better, the 5.3 had the best gas mileage of any of the Big Three V8 equipped trucks offered during that year! (And pretty much all years from 1999-2011, for that matter) The Fords and Dodges were lucky to scrape by with 15mpg, while the Chevy's/GMC's with the 5.3's were hitting low 20's on the highway with a conservative driver.
I love those trucks, if they held their value better I'd own one! They get about the same mileage as my Tacoma and are much more capable for hauling things around.
 
I'd stick with a 0w30 or 5w30 oil. In Texas it won't make any difference. You are better off replacing your tires with LRR tires; check with consumer reports or tire rack for ratings. A more efficient tire could add 1 mpg
 
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