More moly better?

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Based upon VOA results, it seems that Toyota and Honda have adopted a strategy of packing large concentrations of moly into their 0w20 genuine oils. Other oils use moly. But Toyota and Honda seem to be putting in about 10 to 20 times what other oils, even other 0w20 oils, have. Does anyone know of experimental evidence that levels beyond, say, 100ppm actually do any good? Or are they perhaps just throwing it in "for good measure"?

Always remembering, of course, that moly is not the only EP additive on the block.
 
I'd say more moly is better. Old 'SL' Havoline had 300-400ppm's of it, and I've never actually seen a bad UOA from it ever. Wear levels are always very, very low with that oil, no mater what the service.
 
Moly is expensive compared to other things like Boron, after reading anything about Toyota's lean principles I doubt Toyota would throw in anything for good measure. Moly is also a friction reducer, that's where I would assume it's value lies.
 
Moly is not hard on cats. That's one or both of the ZDDP constituents I believe (zinc)

Not only is moly a good anti-wear additive, but in my experience, it does the most to promote a quiet engine. I returned the one 5-quart jug I have of PP to Walmart for store credit, so I could get a case of Havoline 5w30 from Sam's. *Gasp!*

I've had SUCH good service from Havoline/Chevron oils. Moly seems to be the common denominator. Could all be psych, yea. But the oil's reputation is well-documented as well.
 
many oils dont even use moly and they show excellent uoa

i'm using maxlife blend right now which has almost 300ppm of moly, the engine feels really nice! noticeably smoother than castro, amsoil Pennzoil's synthetic offerings with has 50-100ppm of moly.
 
Hmmm. I didn't realize that other oils were using that much moly. I guess 600ppm - 900ppm is not that stratospheric. The oils I've been paying attention to all run below about 100ppm.
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
I'd say more moly is better. Old 'SL' Havoline had 300-400ppm's of it, and I've never actually seen a bad UOA from it ever. Wear levels are always very, very low with that oil, no mater what the service.


I agree that more moly is better, problem is it costs more. Oil companines are looking for cheaper alternatives, which may or may not be better alternatives. Time will tell.
 
I'm not sure how moly works in a wet sump with a constant (constant to what I have experience with) however moly can build up on surface causing change in dimensions, also once moly starts to build up in a layer like this so to speak it will cause more friction, causing an almost stick when a metal is slid over it. I doubt the low levels of moly even in the Honda, and Toyota would come anywhere close to this, and the fluid carrier would also work in favor of the moly.
 
That is so true!! Time will tell and the fact that Toyota and Honda both favor moly makes it more real I think>> auto mfg
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that know what they are doing.
 
I'm planning an oil formulated with nothing more than moly, Seafoam and MMO. I'm also going to dye it pink.
 
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
I'm planning an oil formulated with nothing more than moly, Seafoam and MMO. I'm also going to dye it pink.


Pink Eye oil?
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Moly is useful during break-in to make the cross-hatch wear flat rather than being rolled-over. That's about it. Beyond a certain concentration, it becomes toxic to other adds, if present. That's why moly otc adds are bad.

It's up to the oil formulator the oem works with, maybe the product is oriented to factory-fill service and simply remains the same for subsequent service duty, but maybe there is a reason for it beyond what I stated, but I don't think so.
 
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Originally Posted By: rclint
I'm not sure how moly works in a wet sump with a constant (constant to what I have experience with) however moly can build up on surface causing change in dimensions, also once moly starts to build up in a layer like this so to speak it will cause more friction, causing an almost stick when a metal is slid over it. I doubt the low levels of moly even in the Honda, and Toyota would come anywhere close to this, and the fluid carrier would also work in favor of the moly.


Are you talking about otc moly additives or oils with moly in general, I know redline oils have A LOT of moly is there oil going to cause a moly build up and cause more friction? In my engine?
 
I'm speaking of Molybdenum in dry form, no carrier. I have worked with several forms of dry lubricants at work, and also at home. The time I worked with Moly at work was really surprising as in how much it reduced friction, there is also some scientific write-ups on how moly bonds with metals at a molecular level making it very very hard to break this bond. However the drawback I found with moly is that if part A was saturated with moly running continues over part B (like a cable rubbing over a piece of round stock just speaking for a visual ) then eventually the moly would build up on part B causing a dramatic increase in friction, and as heat goes up moly builds even more. This is a totally different situation than a wet sump with oil talking parts per million, however I did want to give warning to heed the advice there can be to much of a good thing.
 
Moly is used in most engine oils.

Some companies make specialty products that are loaded with moly and are added to your engine's oil.

I'm convinced it is a good thing to have there, and beneficial for all sort of reasons.
 
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