Homebrew "Moly" Oil?

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Many here have advocated the advantages of Moly as part of the additive package of various oil. Seems like Bob's experiments and oil analysis from others proves this point. As an experiment, I took some synthetic Moly EP grease and mixed it with a good 10w-30 synthetic oil of the same brand. It mixed quite well, and was wondering what advantages/disadvantages there would be to mixing a small amount and adding it as part of an oil change? Anyone have any idea how much and what type of moly is normally present in a Moly EP grease? This might be an inexpensive means of providing improved protection using a standard oil. Any thoughts?
 
Is the 10W-30 actually going to act as a solvent for the moly and dissolve it into a solution, or will it settle out? This is interesting for me, I wouldn't mind being able to *add* moly to my oil safely if it works, but you'd think there would be a drawback to this. Perhaps this isn't the same moly used in motoroil usually?
 
I'm no chemist/tribologist, but it would worry the #*@! out of me to have grease dissolved in my motor oil. For now, I'll just buy my oil w/the factory moly in it.
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Greases may have other constiuents that would affect the oil's additive balance and even its lubricity, such as dimataceous earth (a clay that may contain silicon particles),
lithium thickeners, and other chemicals.

From what I have been able to deduce, the Schaeffer's moly additive is probably the least risky route to follow if you want to add moly.

Better yet, obtain a good motor oil that already has Moly blended blended into the additive package with a balanced chemistry, completly researched for use in a motor.
 
It is not advisable to ever use a grease compound mixed in motor oil for an engine.

The Problems With This?..

Greases use a solid form of moly. This mixed in with the tackifiers for thickners, and complex's that contain soap(lithium) all will contribute to problems in an engine oil.

Solids used like this type of moly can get pumped into oil channels and actually clog the channel such as one in a rod bearing, thus starving the lubrication for that bearing and causing a falure.

This is actually old technology and was one of the first steps of applying a solid like moly,ptfe, and graphite found in greases. Another problem with this is that it would seperate and drop to the pan or get caught up in the filter.

This is why there is so many old articles talking about how solids like moly,ptfe and graphite is a bad thing in oil. Back then, they were right. Now that statement is incorrect about moly. As technology has progressed so has the technology of addititizing solids like moly.

Unlike greases, motor oils must use a soluble moly that will not sperate otherwise you will have problems as stated above if not careful.
 
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This is something I read on the back of Valvoline power steering fluid. It said not to be used in the transmission. I was under the asumption they were interchangable.
 
that sounds like a very bad idea, wrong type of moly for sure.

But you and I have the same general goal. What I have done is mixed one quart of Redline 10w-30 with 3.5 quarts of Mobil1 10w-30. The 600 ppms in the one quart of Redline should settle down to about 200 ppms or so when mixed with the Mobil1. Plus I like the extra silicone Redline uses, should help out with my balance shafted engine and lack of windage tray on my engine. Silicone helps reduce frothing/aeration. I will be doing a UOA on my mix very soon. My other choice would be to use the Schaeffers additive.

Joey
 
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