Mobile 1 5w-40 truck/SUV oil.
Rebadged (most think) Delvac 1 with no moly.
Rebadged (most think) Delvac 1 with no moly.
mobil1 15w50 and clutch slippage
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HP4 is one of the worst performing oils out there......Go with another brand.
Thats probably because its a semi with less than 10%pao like ALL other semi blends. Its not the oil
or maybe using dino for a while,then switching to full synth washing the clutch plates..then sliparoo.not to mention the comedy with the hp4 with moly..but we wont go there.. 
seems to reason that mobil would be foolish to put extra slippery goodies in their heavy 15-50 oil.i know a guy with an 03 yamaha fz1,used m1 15-50 car oil after breakin and rode the **** out of it,over 50k miles in less than a year. no probs.still running.
[ December 04, 2004, 03:18 PM: Message edited by: moontan ]
seems to reason that mobil would be foolish to put extra slippery goodies in their heavy 15-50 oil.i know a guy with an 03 yamaha fz1,used m1 15-50 car oil after breakin and rode the **** out of it,over 50k miles in less than a year. no probs.still running.[ December 04, 2004, 03:18 PM: Message edited by: moontan ]
Yes, Absolutly, the Amsoil 20w50 Racing Synthetic made my clutch slip at highway speeds. With the dino oil my clutch does not slip. I now have 16,000 miles on this clutch and the only time it slipped was when I used Amsoil in the engine. Because of this I will always run dino oil in this bike.
KL250
KL250
I believe the regular 20w50 (non-racing formula) will work fine. The racing stuff probably has some additives that causes your clutch to slip. I was told that the Amsoil 10w40 and the Amsoil motorcycle 10W40 are the same oils in different bottles for marketing purposes, and I believe the same is probably true about the 20w50.
The Shell Rotella 5W40 synthetic is inexpensive and contains no moly. It's fast becoming a favorite of motorcyclists who can use a 40 weight oil.
Wear out the MX4T first though. Can't afford to waste that stuff!
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I had a stator failure about 1k ago, I installed 5w40 rotellaT just to test. I just needed some oil to flush my engine for 500 miles. It performed okay and is usable. Upon drain went with 4T 10w40, It was worth the extra bucks Bike glided much more feely than with the RotellaT.
The 15w50 while some find it usuable, it does have moly in it and the ash content, suggests there's alot of dino oil in it also. It does not meet Jaso ma specs on ash content
Wear out the MX4T first though. Can't afford to waste that stuff!
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I had a stator failure about 1k ago, I installed 5w40 rotellaT just to test. I just needed some oil to flush my engine for 500 miles. It performed okay and is usable. Upon drain went with 4T 10w40, It was worth the extra bucks Bike glided much more feely than with the RotellaT.
The 15w50 while some find it usuable, it does have moly in it and the ash content, suggests there's alot of dino oil in it also. It does not meet Jaso ma specs on ash content
Mobil 1 MX4T has no friction modifiers, which could lead to clutch slippage.
There are two (at the least) kinds of "moly": MoS2 is the kind you DO NOT WANT in a wet clutch motorcycle.
Amsoil's 10W-40 products (AMO & AMF) ARE reportedly essentially the same oil. They make 3 different 20W-50 products: the Racing 20W-50 (TRO) is different from the other two 20W-50's (ARO & AMV) which are also ESSENTIALLY the same.
I believe the AMO, AMF, ARO & AMV products are all JASO MA rated. Many believe the AME 15W-40 100% synthetic product is every bit as acceptable in a wet clutch bike (& is cheaper, too).
I don't know about Red Cap M1 15W-50 (vis'-a-vis' a formulation change after the SL designation) but if it doesn't slip in a Hayabusa application it SURELY shouldn't slip in a 4-stroke single!
Nothing wrong with a single, 2 or 4-stroke:freak:
Cheers!
Amsoil's 10W-40 products (AMO & AMF) ARE reportedly essentially the same oil. They make 3 different 20W-50 products: the Racing 20W-50 (TRO) is different from the other two 20W-50's (ARO & AMV) which are also ESSENTIALLY the same.
I believe the AMO, AMF, ARO & AMV products are all JASO MA rated. Many believe the AME 15W-40 100% synthetic product is every bit as acceptable in a wet clutch bike (& is cheaper, too).
I don't know about Red Cap M1 15W-50 (vis'-a-vis' a formulation change after the SL designation) but if it doesn't slip in a Hayabusa application it SURELY shouldn't slip in a 4-stroke single!
Nothing wrong with a single, 2 or 4-stroke:freak:
Cheers!
Yeah, I recall putting some 'Moly-slip' MoS2 tratment into my wet clutch once. Man, did my transmission shift BEAUTIFULLY. What an improvement! And man, did my clutch S-L-I-P! Ruined it. I didn't know what the **** I had done to it - never had a clue! Anyway, I look back on it and laugh now. That clutch couldn't hold against the engine's torque at all. What a joke.
I guess that this is somewhat off-topic
, but it does show what molybdenum can do in the right circumstances. Both the good and the bad.
John.
I guess that this is somewhat off-topic
John.
I got an email from an Amsoil tech that says that the 10W40 AMO and AMF are both JASO MA rated. He said they are the exact same oils, just packaged different for marketing purposes. At least where I buy mine they don't charge more for the motorcycle version, so at least they are honest. Is the Amsoil 10W40 a full PAO synthetic?quote:
Originally posted by Norm Olt:
There are two (at the least) kinds of "moly": MoS2 is the kind you DO NOT WANT in a wet clutch motorcycle.
Amsoil's 10W-40 products (AMO & AMF) ARE reportedly essentially the same oil. They make 3 different 20W-50 products: the Racing 20W-50 (TRO) is different from the other two 20W-50's (ARO & AMV) which are also ESSENTIALLY the same.
I believe the AMO, AMF, ARO & AMV products are all JASO MA rated. Many believe the AME 15W-40 100% synthetic product is every bit as acceptable in a wet clutch bike (& is cheaper, too).
I don't know about Red Cap M1 15W-50 (vis'-a-vis' a formulation change after the SL designation) but if it doesn't slip in a Hayabusa application it SURELY shouldn't slip in a 4-stroke single!
Nothing wrong with a single, 2 or 4-stroke:freak:
Cheers!
From what I have seen the M1 red cap 15W50 has varying results based on the bike.
Thats another reason that Honda came out with HP4 with and without moly.
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