Any guess what the increase of the current HTHS of Mobil1 HTHS(around 2.99 )would be using #132? Any way to measure this by a lab?
Thanks
Thanks
Mobil1 0w-30 HTHS increase using #132 at 50ml per oz.
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Buy a different brand motor oil. Then you would not need to mess with aftermarket add-on's.
Easier to buy a suit that's your size rather than to buy 2 sizes too small and then try to alter it.
Ok, anybody that would like to by three cases of Mobil1 0W-30 oil and plese tell these oil companies to just quit making aftermarker oil products to just confuse us
[ February 04, 2004, 02:11 AM: Message edited by: OilAnal ]
Is that 50 ml per quart ?
Or 50 ml per oil change ?
I think this dose is too strong.
I cannot address a response to your specific question but I believe that the #132 or even the Brew (with the LC at 3:1 ratio) was suggested for Mobil 1 users as a means to increase the viscosity a bit. I will state that in the three oil analysis I have had using 8 ounces of the #132 with LC that it has increased the viscosity of my Amsoil 0W and 10W 30 to a low 40W. As Amsoil is a higher viscosity then Mobil 1 to begin with that could work well for you if that is your intent!
I'd use their 10w-30 or mix some 15w-50 with the 0w-30. It's HT/HS is 3.2 or 3.3 (Amsoil's latest comparison). GC is a nice 3.6. Otherwise chose a different brand. I don't think just bc an oil has a HT/HS of 3.5 means it's great. Look at the low viscosity M1 0w-20. It shows great numbers and it's only a 2.6 but it's well made. A3 is icing on the cake.
oops, late night post. Yes, 50ml per quart.
I have two conflicting goals beside the fact that I already bought the Moibl1 0W-30 on closeout at target- 1)increase HTHS and 2)not affect the low viscosity flow too much.
I like the winter flow of Mobil1 0W-30. Mixing Mobil1 15-50( which I have done during the summer) probably does increase the HTHS but raises the low temp viscosity somewhat(and I have thought of using 0W-40 Mobil1 to keep a 0W oil). The #132 probably does also increase the low temp viscosity, so perhaps a wash. But the #132 has add more moly, a surface treatment and antimony beyond Mobil1. So I lean toward the use of #132 plus I have some bottles already.
By tomorrow, I should have a case of Mobil1 0W-30R at the doorstep from George,so as someone suggested I could just use a different oil instead of the 0W-30 regular Mobil1. But the HTHS of Mobil1R is not given yet known. It may just be more AW additives.
Hence the question, can I get an increase of HTHS with the #132 brew or will I need to go with the Mobil1 racing oil or some other at least for winter use.
If I am going to have to pay over $8 an qt. with shipping for Mobil1R, I will just use it instead of RL or Amsoil. I do use RL lube in the trans, but not convinced that RL motor oil or Amsoil is any better than regular Mobil1 for the price delta - please not trying to start a flame, just my opinion.
The Mobil1 racing oil is still an unknown, but I do trust EM to deliver a quality product.
Also, the engine that I am asking about can use up to a 50 vis, but the recommended weight is 10W-30, so I am not to concerned about pushing into a low 40W plus I don't think the thin Mobil1 will really get there, since someone only got a low 40W with thicker Amsoil and 8oz of #132.
[ February 04, 2004, 11:45 PM: Message edited by: OilAnal ]
I have two conflicting goals beside the fact that I already bought the Moibl1 0W-30 on closeout at target- 1)increase HTHS and 2)not affect the low viscosity flow too much.
I like the winter flow of Mobil1 0W-30. Mixing Mobil1 15-50( which I have done during the summer) probably does increase the HTHS but raises the low temp viscosity somewhat(and I have thought of using 0W-40 Mobil1 to keep a 0W oil). The #132 probably does also increase the low temp viscosity, so perhaps a wash. But the #132 has add more moly, a surface treatment and antimony beyond Mobil1. So I lean toward the use of #132 plus I have some bottles already.
By tomorrow, I should have a case of Mobil1 0W-30R at the doorstep from George,so as someone suggested I could just use a different oil instead of the 0W-30 regular Mobil1. But the HTHS of Mobil1R is not given yet known. It may just be more AW additives.
Hence the question, can I get an increase of HTHS with the #132 brew or will I need to go with the Mobil1 racing oil or some other at least for winter use.
If I am going to have to pay over $8 an qt. with shipping for Mobil1R, I will just use it instead of RL or Amsoil. I do use RL lube in the trans, but not convinced that RL motor oil or Amsoil is any better than regular Mobil1 for the price delta - please not trying to start a flame, just my opinion.
The Mobil1 racing oil is still an unknown, but I do trust EM to deliver a quality product.
Also, the engine that I am asking about can use up to a 50 vis, but the recommended weight is 10W-30, so I am not to concerned about pushing into a low 40W plus I don't think the thin Mobil1 will really get there, since someone only got a low 40W with thicker Amsoil and 8oz of #132.
[ February 04, 2004, 11:45 PM: Message edited by: OilAnal ]
I used the Neutra/LC brew 3:1 (250ml) with 4qts of M1 10W30 and did a VOA of the mix. The Vis@100 came back at 12.2; The M1 is around 10. Quite a jump.
Pedro
Pedro
If you add enough #132 it will probably thicken the stuff up to an SAE 5w-40 grade, so you'll lose some low temp flow. I'd just leave it the way it is ....
I think the Mobil 1R will reduce valvetrain wear, although I'm not sure about the extended drain aspect for $6.85/qt? That's more than you pay for the Series 2000 and Series 3000 formulations at Preferred Customer prices, both of which are well proven, extended drain formulations.
Tooslick
Dixie Synthetic
I think the Mobil 1R will reduce valvetrain wear, although I'm not sure about the extended drain aspect for $6.85/qt? That's more than you pay for the Series 2000 and Series 3000 formulations at Preferred Customer prices, both of which are well proven, extended drain formulations.
Tooslick
Dixie Synthetic
Oil anal that is probably the best gasoline engine FOrd has ever built! The only I6's I like better are Dodge Slant Six and the Toyota 3.0 I6. If you keep that engine full of clean oil it does not much matter what type you run. Just make sure the viscosity is right for temp.
MolaKule
Staff member
You can get a lab to measure, but might be expensive.
A rough calculation shows the HTHS would be about 3.1 with #132.
A rough calculation shows the HTHS would be about 3.1 with #132.
All, thanks for the input.
JB- the engine is actually a Nissan V6 VG30 OEM Nissan Japan reman. with about 14k miles. My father had a 64 slant 6. I learned how to maint and to drive a car from him for long life. All our cars from the 1960s on always got 120K trouble free engine miles before we sold and only one had an AT problem, as I recall. We tracked our 61 Plymouth Fury 318 to a friend to at least 175K+. At that time, it just amazed.
JB- the engine is actually a Nissan V6 VG30 OEM Nissan Japan reman. with about 14k miles. My father had a 64 slant 6. I learned how to maint and to drive a car from him for long life. All our cars from the 1960s on always got 120K trouble free engine miles before we sold and only one had an AT problem, as I recall. We tracked our 61 Plymouth Fury 318 to a friend to at least 175K+. At that time, it just amazed.
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