Your engine is eating that oil up at that OCI, try a shorter one!
Mobil One/5w30, 10,000miles 1989 Chevy Celebrity
- Thread starter Lin0
- Start date
- Status
lol, yes I'm going to shorten my OCI.
Anti-foam agents. Very good point. You think you are doing a good thing for the motor by using an additive....but maybe not.
Anti-foam agents. Very good point. You think you are doing a good thing for the motor by using an additive....but maybe not.
Excellent! You one of the few who have seen the light. We have a bunch here who are just enamored with Dollar General/Big Lot Store close-out oil additives.quote:
Originally posted by Lin0:
Anti-foam agents. Very good point. You think you are doing a good thing for the motor by using an additive....but maybe not.
It's always good to run the oil alone, first, have a UOA done, then test your choice of oil with the additive and have a UOA done.
Lino,
Given the age of this engine and the driving conditions, I'd recommend trying the Mobil 1, 5w-40, aka Mobil Delvac 1 (look for the latter at truckstops). I believe it provides much better protection from corrosive wear and rust than the garden variety Mobil 1, 5w-30 and 10w-30. It works particularly well in these older, low revving, GM pushrod engines. My fellow lister "427ZO6" generally has a knee jerk aversion to this idea,
, but that's okay.
If you did nothing else, a 30%-50% shorter oil change interval would significantly reduce these wear rates. I'd also use some spray carb cleaner and try to find the source of this leak. Spray it on suspect hose connections and see if the idle speed increases. Do this with the engine idling, but right after you start it, so you don't blow yourself up.
Of course never spray at or near the exhaust manifold.
TS
Given the age of this engine and the driving conditions, I'd recommend trying the Mobil 1, 5w-40, aka Mobil Delvac 1 (look for the latter at truckstops). I believe it provides much better protection from corrosive wear and rust than the garden variety Mobil 1, 5w-30 and 10w-30. It works particularly well in these older, low revving, GM pushrod engines. My fellow lister "427ZO6" generally has a knee jerk aversion to this idea,
If you did nothing else, a 30%-50% shorter oil change interval would significantly reduce these wear rates. I'd also use some spray carb cleaner and try to find the source of this leak. Spray it on suspect hose connections and see if the idle speed increases. Do this with the engine idling, but right after you start it, so you don't blow yourself up.
TS
When you see high wear rates, this does not spell doom. You look for trends. And while your lead and iron are high...you did run the oil for 10,000 miles. I am a fan of M1...maybe this was just to long for THIS engine
For a 1989 Celebrity 60° V6 with 150K miles, not really. Plenty of cold start wear in MI. Although I do cringe when it's put in a new tight engine. But if I were going to follow the HDEO route here, I'd much prefer something like AMSOIL Series 3000 Synthetic 5W-30. Or drive up to Canada and get some Esso XD-3 0w30. Even Rotella T-Syn 5w40 has better cold flow properties than M1 5w40.quote:
Originally posted by TooSlick:
My fellow lister "427ZO6" generally has a knee jerk aversion to this idea,, but that's okay.
Lin0, I'm originally from Monroe, MI, so I know your driving conditions. Re-reading your first post, I infer that you are driving about 10,000 miles/year with 60% local driving. You say that the engine doesn't burn any oil, so there is no need to go to a heavy weight oil. If it were my car, I would use TropArtic semi-synthetic 5W30 year around. Locally available at WM, Murrys, probably other places. TA-SS is IMO, the best bang for the buck available in your area. Change the oil Spring and fall. Don't go over 4000 miles on the winter change, and 5000 miles on the summer change. The PF52 filter is fine and will be good for the whole change. WM also has Havoline and Motorcraft, both excellent oils of equal quality with TA-SS but a little more expensive. Rotella-T Syn 5W40 was mentioned. This is an excellent all around oil, but you till need to change it, maybe 4000 in the winter and 6000 in the summer and it's more expensive.. I run Rotella-T Syn 5W40 in my 4 cyl. 2.5L turbo and Caravan change and it at 5000 miles or 1 year.. M1 is great oil but you still need to change it at no more then 7500 miles in your conditions.
As far as the salt goes, if you test the dirt along side telegraph road in Mid August, you will find it loaded with Calcium chloride. In that area, the county dumps tons of salt on the roads.
Good luck, PM me if you need any help.
As far as the salt goes, if you test the dirt along side telegraph road in Mid August, you will find it loaded with Calcium chloride. In that area, the county dumps tons of salt on the roads.
Good luck, PM me if you need any help.
Oldmoparguy1,
Thanks for the reply. I like your ideas and would like to share some info I found on the TropArtic brand.
In a 90 mile radius from my home, there is no such thing as TropArtic being sold on shelf. Instead, the sister oil that has been on the shelf here for the last two years is Kendall GT1. ConocoPhillips makes both. I've been using Kendall 5w30 in my 93 geo prism 1.6L for those two years now.
TooSlick,
My 2.8L is the smaller pushrod, so it revs a little bit higher than most at 6,200 redline. And yeah I've been spraying the carb cleaner and even the starting fluid but I can't tell if the rpms increase or not (no indicator) so I am just going to replace the intake gaskets to get those out of the way. Vacuum hoses look awesome so far and I have 22lbs of vacuum at idle.
I like the sound of the extra corrosion resistance in the delvac, I'm thinking I could add 1qt to the 3qts Kendall GT1 and then UOA at 5k.
Thanks for the reply. I like your ideas and would like to share some info I found on the TropArtic brand.
In a 90 mile radius from my home, there is no such thing as TropArtic being sold on shelf. Instead, the sister oil that has been on the shelf here for the last two years is Kendall GT1. ConocoPhillips makes both. I've been using Kendall 5w30 in my 93 geo prism 1.6L for those two years now.
TooSlick,
My 2.8L is the smaller pushrod, so it revs a little bit higher than most at 6,200 redline. And yeah I've been spraying the carb cleaner and even the starting fluid but I can't tell if the rpms increase or not (no indicator) so I am just going to replace the intake gaskets to get those out of the way. Vacuum hoses look awesome so far and I have 22lbs of vacuum at idle.
I like the sound of the extra corrosion resistance in the delvac, I'm thinking I could add 1qt to the 3qts Kendall GT1 and then UOA at 5k.
Lino,
Any good 5w-40, HD diesel oil would probably work better than what youre running as far as rust. I still think you have too much dirt getting into the crankcase and that issue needs to be resolved.
The bearing wear should gradually improve simply by virtue of running shorter change intervals, regardless of the oil you use. The low TBN is the main reason for the high lead, I believe.
I"d check the PVC system as well...sometimes a degraded grommet where the valve fits into the valve cover will allow unfiltered air to enter the crankcase.
Good luck!
TS
Any good 5w-40, HD diesel oil would probably work better than what youre running as far as rust. I still think you have too much dirt getting into the crankcase and that issue needs to be resolved.
The bearing wear should gradually improve simply by virtue of running shorter change intervals, regardless of the oil you use. The low TBN is the main reason for the high lead, I believe.
I"d check the PVC system as well...sometimes a degraded grommet where the valve fits into the valve cover will allow unfiltered air to enter the crankcase.
Good luck!
TS
No TA-SS huh? Must have sold it out. I was in Monroe in early January and bought 12 qts. Of 5W30 TA-SS at the WM on North Telegraph.
You're lucky to have TS and some others giving you comments. My thought is if their free advice doesn't help, which it likely will, then you could consider Terry's services.
I will second Ekpolk's recommendation of Terry's interpretive services. At $30 I've personally found it to be a bargain and an excellent tool for evaluating or forming a maintenance strategy (for cars that are pretty much doing OK) and for diagnosing problems (for cars that aren't). The consumer rates he charges us are a drop in the bucket compared to what industry pays for services like this. Anyone who's paid for his services will tell you the same thing. It's excellent value for the money.
Not to mention the fact that he's a nice guy and all-around class act.
I will second Ekpolk's recommendation of Terry's interpretive services. At $30 I've personally found it to be a bargain and an excellent tool for evaluating or forming a maintenance strategy (for cars that are pretty much doing OK) and for diagnosing problems (for cars that aren't). The consumer rates he charges us are a drop in the bucket compared to what industry pays for services like this. Anyone who's paid for his services will tell you the same thing. It's excellent value for the money.
Not to mention the fact that he's a nice guy and all-around class act.
Lin0,
Your Wal-Mart should carry Havoline, mine does.
Your Wal-Mart should carry Havoline, mine does.
They didn't last time I replied. I called them today, and now they do, but its cheaper at rite-aid in town.
I would bet money that this engine has coolant contaminating the oil from either the intake manifold gasket (is it a V6) or maybe a failing head gasket. Might have other problems as well. This UOA has red flags all over the place, and changing oils probably isn't going to fix the real problems.
As noted before, let's not forget that this is an 18 year old car albeit with relatively low miles for the age. That it's still in service is a good thing from an "extracting value" perspective. If the goal is to keep extracting value from it, I agree that it's no longer a good candidate for trying the long OCI strategy. As wgt notes, it is a likely victim of coolant contamination, and perhaps other forms of contamination given the age of all the parts meant to isolate the oil from the outside (come to think of it -- all the parts). With that in mind, I would no longer go for long OCIs. Syn or not, I'd be restricting it to substantially shorter OCIs. Especially given the super quality of the current inexpensive dino oils, why push it with this engine???
Fix the air intake leak and try Delvac or Delo in 15W40. Walmart has gallon jugs of Delvac 15W40 for $8.87. I would leave the engine protector or anyother additives alone for this next oil change so we can have a clear look at what is going on. I would change the oil in 6 months and not worry about a filter change. I think you main problem is tha the oil was in their for far too long in terms on months! Second it was not that sound of an engine to be doing an extended oci on without first establishing a solid base line. Third it is lettingin some dirt and salt wich is both abrasive and causes corrosin. Forth I think that between the oil and the additive their might be some cleaning going on.
When winter rolls around again go to havoline 5W30 or 10W30 just for the winter.
When winter rolls around again go to havoline 5W30 or 10W30 just for the winter.
The 2.8 engines aren't known for popping there intake manifold gaskets like the 94 and up 3.1s, and if I wasn't seeing any mayo under the oil cap, and the analysis was negative, I wouldn't hassle with 'em. I had a Beretta with a 2.8 and when I got rid of it with 188,000 miles it had no coolant leaks. I would be using a cheap dino and running around 5,000 miles.
I agree with everyone who says you need to make sure dirt is not being ingested.
Past that - I think this is a good case for Mobil1 0W-40. You drive roughly 1000 miles a month, not high but not low. You live in a northern climate. The 0W-40 will outperform the 5W-30 during cold start, and, like TooSlick said, the extra "hot" viscosity will benefit you.
Past that - I think this is a good case for Mobil1 0W-40. You drive roughly 1000 miles a month, not high but not low. You live in a northern climate. The 0W-40 will outperform the 5W-30 during cold start, and, like TooSlick said, the extra "hot" viscosity will benefit you.
- Status
Similar threads
