ok, i have been doing some searching and im a little confused. what is a better oil as far as lubrication is concerned, not longevity, between the older formula mobil 1, the new mobil 1, and the new mobil 1 ep?
mobil 1
- Thread starter motoman358
- Start date
- Status
I believe they rate about the same. EP just has more additives to allow longer use.
The old Mobil 1 is fine. The new stuff has a beefed up additive package for longevity, but isn’t any better of a lube.
I use the reg T & SUV(5w-40) once a year or 8000 miles and it seems to be a great oil. If you don't need the extended mileage...run the regular and save a $1/qt.
"I am using Mobil 1 now with a 6 month/7500 miles interval.
Maybe I am better (at least cost wise) to use a good quality conventional oil and go back to 3 month/3000 miles intervals.
I don’t see a cost benefit to the synthetic"
Given your "numbers" example, I would agree totally. Cost wise, go to the conventional Mobil ? "Drive Clean" 7500 mile product and go, yes 7500 miles. To me this would be 8 0z of toothpaste correctly used.
NOT to go off topic or to hyjack the thread, but conventional oils are much improved. On a Honda Civic, I just recently did an OEM recommended "first or BREAK IN" oil change of 10,000 miles WITH CONVENTIONAL OIL !! The fuel mileage range during this 10,000 mile OCI was 34-38 mpg.
Since I am a bit of an "enthusiast" I did use BOBSTHEOILGUY to research the literally plethora of 5w20 products. Of course as you know there is a controversy about engine wear and longevity vs emission requirements in addition about that viscosity. Uphot is the 5w20 is a MOST ROBUST oil. So if I were to stay with the conventional signs point to ExxonMobil Superflo 5w20 and with coupons we are talking under a buck a quart. There are some still more killer coupon deals for other oil brands, which effectively one can pay .49 cents per quart!!
So early in the research this seemed like IMPOSSIBLE to beat. However 0w20 Mobil One came on the radar (4 per quart) But indications were app 1-3 mpg difference in fuel milage. So I went to 0w20 Mobil One and with 10,000 miles on IT the fuel mileage has indeed gone .5 to 3 mpg HIGHER or 35-41 mpg. In a plain jane vanilla commute the avg was 35 vs 37 mpg. So for MY purposes 2 mpg over 10,000 miles converts to 286 gals-270 gals=16 gal x 2.53 (current price) = $40.48 in fuel savings, So indeed conventional oil (3.4 qt x 1) at 3.40 cents (40.48) is indeed cheaper than (3.4 qts x 4) 13.60 . As you can see when you add in the fuel savings the costs are really 43.88 vs 13.60.
[ November 24, 2005, 01:32 PM: Message edited by: ruking77 ]
Maybe I am better (at least cost wise) to use a good quality conventional oil and go back to 3 month/3000 miles intervals.
I don’t see a cost benefit to the synthetic"
Given your "numbers" example, I would agree totally. Cost wise, go to the conventional Mobil ? "Drive Clean" 7500 mile product and go, yes 7500 miles. To me this would be 8 0z of toothpaste correctly used.
NOT to go off topic or to hyjack the thread, but conventional oils are much improved. On a Honda Civic, I just recently did an OEM recommended "first or BREAK IN" oil change of 10,000 miles WITH CONVENTIONAL OIL !! The fuel mileage range during this 10,000 mile OCI was 34-38 mpg.
Since I am a bit of an "enthusiast" I did use BOBSTHEOILGUY to research the literally plethora of 5w20 products. Of course as you know there is a controversy about engine wear and longevity vs emission requirements in addition about that viscosity. Uphot is the 5w20 is a MOST ROBUST oil. So if I were to stay with the conventional signs point to ExxonMobil Superflo 5w20 and with coupons we are talking under a buck a quart. There are some still more killer coupon deals for other oil brands, which effectively one can pay .49 cents per quart!!
So early in the research this seemed like IMPOSSIBLE to beat. However 0w20 Mobil One came on the radar (4 per quart) But indications were app 1-3 mpg difference in fuel milage. So I went to 0w20 Mobil One and with 10,000 miles on IT the fuel mileage has indeed gone .5 to 3 mpg HIGHER or 35-41 mpg. In a plain jane vanilla commute the avg was 35 vs 37 mpg. So for MY purposes 2 mpg over 10,000 miles converts to 286 gals-270 gals=16 gal x 2.53 (current price) = $40.48 in fuel savings, So indeed conventional oil (3.4 qt x 1) at 3.40 cents (40.48) is indeed cheaper than (3.4 qts x 4) 13.60 . As you can see when you add in the fuel savings the costs are really 43.88 vs 13.60.
[ November 24, 2005, 01:32 PM: Message edited by: ruking77 ]
The current M1 Energy Conserving, API SM viscosity grades, are a good option for 5-8K OCI's or for use in a GM vehicle with an oil life monitoring system.
The EP line is a legitimate extended drain oil with the additional detergent(calcium) and dispersant(boron) additives.
But EP is certainly a good choice for anyone desiring a syn oil with a hefty additve package to run at more normal OCI's.
Here's a good M1 UOA Report that illustrates the different additive levels of the SL Supersyn vs. the new EP versions. And thanks to Chucky2 for posting this series of UOA's.
The EP line is a legitimate extended drain oil with the additional detergent(calcium) and dispersant(boron) additives.
But EP is certainly a good choice for anyone desiring a syn oil with a hefty additve package to run at more normal OCI's.
Here's a good M1 UOA Report that illustrates the different additive levels of the SL Supersyn vs. the new EP versions. And thanks to Chucky2 for posting this series of UOA's.
what about mobil 1 racing 0w30, how does it perform?
Agree,
I've always thought....how much better can a more expensive synthetic be? I put 326,000 on my last minivan (Villager) the motor only used 1/4 qt every 6,000 miles towards the end of my ownership. Would paying $2 or $3 more a quart got me any different results???
Later,
JU
I've always thought....how much better can a more expensive synthetic be? I put 326,000 on my last minivan (Villager) the motor only used 1/4 qt every 6,000 miles towards the end of my ownership. Would paying $2 or $3 more a quart got me any different results???
Later,
JU
$John the issue of course is extending the drains. Pretty much everyone concurs there is little benefit to the synths when dinos can be used for the recommended application over recommended intervals. Synths, in particular, HDEO synths excel when extended drains are to be used, or in a small subset of engines that are naturally predisposed to sludge issues, for instance, anything with a turbocharger, certain Toyotas, etc.
$2 or $3 extra per quart, and a single validating UOA at your normal OCI may have allowed you to change the oil half as often without any compromise in performance or longevity.
$2 or $3 extra per quart, and a single validating UOA at your normal OCI may have allowed you to change the oil half as often without any compromise in performance or longevity.
Not to be real technical, but in one of the applications I use 5w30, the EP DOES NOT meet the GM 4187 M specification. In the 2 other applications while EP meets the specifications, I have already been going 15,000 mile OCI's on the (OLD)Mobil One 5w30. So paying a premium to go "longer" ( in my case, 15,000 mile OCI's) on the EP makes no economic sense. My next jump, given the "50% MORE additives" AND the premium would be to 20,000 to 25,000 OCI's. (the nexus here is even with one of the best synthetic oils most folks are loathed to go over 7,500 miles)
The applications for reference are 01 Corvette Z06 70,000 miles, Toyota Landcruiser 94/96. 130,000/66,000 miles.
If you dont mind me drawing an analogy (graphic license, not pure one for one) . It is a bit like getting 50% more toothpaste: say 8 oz to 12 oz for more money, then throwing out the 4 oz of toothpaste when you have used 8 oz.
( more technically correct would be: you buy the same 8 oz toothpaste that is 50% stronger. This would let you use 50% less, but you continue to use the same amount.)
[ November 24, 2005, 12:21 PM: Message edited by: ruking77 ]
The applications for reference are 01 Corvette Z06 70,000 miles, Toyota Landcruiser 94/96. 130,000/66,000 miles.
If you dont mind me drawing an analogy (graphic license, not pure one for one) . It is a bit like getting 50% more toothpaste: say 8 oz to 12 oz for more money, then throwing out the 4 oz of toothpaste when you have used 8 oz.
( more technically correct would be: you buy the same 8 oz toothpaste that is 50% stronger. This would let you use 50% less, but you continue to use the same amount.)
[ November 24, 2005, 12:21 PM: Message edited by: ruking77 ]
This is a good point.
I am using Mobil 1 now with a 6 month/7500 miles interval.
Maybe I am better (at least cost wise) to use a good quality conventional oil and go back to 3 month/3000 miles intervals.
I don’t see a cost benefit to the synthetic.
- Status
Similar threads
