Mobil 1 Synthetic grease is junk!

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I got one of these at Princess Auto:
http://www.greaseguncaddy.com/

http://www.princessauto.com/all-seasons/farm/lubricants/accessories/8041543-grease-gun-holder

Mounted it in my shed and works like a charm. Saved me from having to fab something up out of wood or PVC.

I have Valvoline Cerulean loaded up in my grease gun (used it on my pop-up trailer wheel bearings as the spec met or exceeded requirements). I have blue oil separation dripping all over the place. Pulled the plunger back, same thing. There's quite a bit of loss of fluid sitting in a pail now and the grease gun caddy. I avoided M1 based on earlier posts in this same thread.

I'm not a mechanic and don't go through a lot of grease, so how does one store this stuff in a grease gun without having all the oil separation mess?
 
Bigtall,
When you first load the gun with new grease don't leave the pressure on the grease when in storage. I do this with M1 grease and never have leakage.
 
Originally Posted By: lasmacgod
I have had similar problems with Mobil 1 grease. I also just simply did not like the consistency of the stuff, not sure how to describe it, but I just didn't like it.

I am an open-minded AmsOil fan. I don't believe AmsOil is the only oil that will do the job, but it is my go-to for extended drain interval applications. I also love their gear lubes, greases, and tranny fluids.

That being said, I have not had good luck with AmsOil's S2K grease. No component failures, I just didn't think it was tacky enough and tended to sling out of my wheel bearings rather than stay in the rollers. I now use nothing but AmsOil's Multi-Purpose #2 grease. Stuff stays where I put it, without being overly tacky, and performs very well.

Just my two, alright, maybe three cents, and my experience may be unique.


Had had similar complaints with the S2000 grease which I bought specifically for wheel bearings because it was supposed to be a better choice for them. Their #2 grease IMO is a better choice. I just hope the S2000 holds up because I don't feel like repacking the wheel bearings I used it for again.

IMO the Mobil 1 grease is better than the S2000, and the Amsoil #2 grease is the best of the three.
 
Mobil 1 grease has been used exclusively on the ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman/idler arms of my truck which is approaching 375k miles and almost 18 years of daily driving. All aforementioned parts are original. All were just looked at by 3 separate alignment shops and all of which meet specification.

I'll take some leakage out of the bottom of the gun for that.
 
Originally Posted By: cchase
Mobil 1 grease has been used exclusively on the ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman/idler arms of my truck which is approaching 375k miles and almost 18 years of daily driving. All aforementioned parts are original. All were just looked at by 3 separate alignment shops and all of which meet specification.

I'll take some leakage out of the bottom of the gun for that.


We have some very high mileage use with M1 grease in my family as well. My sons 91 Ranger has 347K with the original wheel berings and other front end parts lubed with M1 grease.
 
...used my buddy's M1 Pink/Red filled grease gun on my truck the other day. Got red oil all over me from the leakage. He doesn't store his gun with the plunger pulled out. Don't know if this means anything about he performance of the grease.
I'm just wondering if the old brown grease it displaced will react with this new Pink M1.
Any thoughts?
 
I switched from M1 because of some issues with it separating, and dripping and tried Amsoil Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2 which I was happy with, I didn't pull the plunger out on that and had no issues with it. In hindsight the M1 grease wasn't that bad and I had been using it for years. I also tried Amsoil S2000 grease which I would never use again. The puddle that collected dripping out of the plunger side of the gun created a mess, and had me thinking the grease was bad. PS I pulled the plunger out when I was finished using the grease. I also caught some static about my comments in other threads. Quite frankly I have been using grease for over 3 decades now, and I think I can tell when a grease separates and drips out of a gun and grease stays put.

I recently switched to Red Line Red Line 80402 Synthetic Grease, and will be sticking with that, I left the plunger deployed to see if it drips out and am happy to report after 3 weeks now no dripping. I was expecting a slight amount, which I would consider normal.

i_mac tell your buddy to store the gun with the plunger out, some slight dripping in IMO is normal, a puddle is a problem. JMO
 
I wonder how the sodium based redline mixes with other types?
Great stuff in cleaned CV-Joints but in parts that were previously greased with lithium or aluminum complex based greases i think there maybe some issues.
 
I'll have to look into that. I cleaned out [very well] the wheel bearings I packed with the S2000 grease, and packed them with the RL product. I would imagine in King pins which don't have a rubber boot to hold the grease in, pumping in fresh grease forces out old grease so it shouldn't be a problem. I might give Dave at RL a call and ask first though.
 
If all the old grease is cleaned away then i don't see any problem.My concern would be with parts like U-Joints,ball joints,tie rod ends etc where getting all the old grease out maybe a challenge.

Let us know their response,i also have some RL here that i use on CV Joints,how much lithium or aluminum complex residue is acceptable?
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
If all the old grease is cleaned away then i don't see any problem.My concern would be with parts like U-Joints,ball joints,tie rod ends etc where getting all the old grease out maybe a challenge.

Let us know their response,i also have some RL here that i use on CV Joints,how much lithium or aluminum complex residue is acceptable?


Here's the word. Whenever changing brands of grease it is always best to flush out as much of the old grease as possible. In the case of my wheel bearings I cleaned them up real good. He said with my King Pins pump the grease in until I see fresh grease coming out, which is what I always do, then repeat after a few thousand miles of driving. In my case would be about 6 months time and I grease every 6 months anyway. If it was a ball joint, once again pump until you see the fresh grease, repeat in a few thousand miles. I'd just add go easy so you don't split the boot.

I plan on sticking with the RL grease now that I found a grease I like, so I won't be changing brands anymore.
 
Yea I also saw M1 grease seperate when I was a tech.
I used valvolines Durablend (semi-syn) after that and never had any problems and it meets the same specs as most syn grease. I never tried valvolines Syn grease after M1, but never had a reason to try anything else after I ran some Dura-blend grease.
 
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I've also had great success with AMSoil "Race Grease" in wheel bearings. I was baking the bearing/grease and getting failures about once per track event. I have 8 days or 16-20 hours of seat time on the oldest AMSoil packed bearing and it still feels fine on the track.
 
I have to disagree that mobil 1 grease is bad. My father works for a natural gas drilling company that has older "R" MODEL MACKS and newer "GRANITE" MODEL MACKS semis. He says that his company noticed that they dont have to grease suspension and other parts of the trucks as much with no name, inferior greases. [censored]; he uses/used it for years on his 3 SPEEDEX tractors! No problems yet, and he is 60!
 
Originally Posted By: Silver_civic
I have to disagree that mobil 1 grease is bad. My father works for a natural gas drilling company that has older "R" MODEL MACKS and newer "GRANITE" MODEL MACKS semis. He says that his company noticed that they dont have to grease suspension and other parts of the trucks as much with no name, inferior greases. [censored]; he uses/used it for years on his 3 SPEEDEX tractors! No problems yet, and he is 60!


Of course M1 grease isn't "bad". I and many others have had very good results with it. However some complain of oil seperation with M1 as I have had it some, but since I relieve the gun pressure, no more seperation. One thing I like about M1 grease is that wheel bearings in trailers with small wheels run cool, even on long high speed trips. Last year I pulled my ut trl to near Chicago(240 miles) and the hubs stayed very cool. No worries, M1 grease lubs bearings very well.
 
Well wagonboss; I hate to break your bashing bubble; but as a mechanic; I havent EVER HAD A PROBLEM USING IT AT ALL! My father is a mechanic and diesel mechanic and his company thats been in business for like 90 yrs wouldnt use (censored) no name grease at all. They still use MOBIL 1 grease without problems. Go ahead, use a [censored] grease and watch it pound the living daylights out of parts, NO THANKS MAN. I am in my mid 30's and used it on everything I have owned and wont complain or cry bout it being bad, not meeting "specs, and requirements". My company I work for now could give a ---- less honestly, as if a factory suspension part fails, its under warranty. Things sure as ---- arent built and designed to last like they used to either. One other thing; my company, and my fathers company doesnt give a ---- if something doesnt meet mack, volvo, or who ever joe blows requirements, as his companys equipment is used in the real world, NOT on highways and easy living environments. Use mobil 1 grease for a while and you'll see. Requirements and ----. specs and hob knob ---- doesnt pay also, so use your [censored] grease all day, I DONT CARE.
 
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M1 always separates on me shortly after putting it into the gun. Doesn't matter if I keep the spring-loaded rod engaged or pulled out.

Schaeffers and Justin doesn't do this nearly as much.

Doesn't mean M1 is a bad grease, just that it makes a bigger mess if you don't use much.
 
Hello, and hope you read the email or message I sent you JHZR2. I am not tryin to be a a** hole at all, just I am a newbie and learning things and I respect your thoughts a lot. I dont want to fight anyone, so I admit I am pretty dumb on lubricants and greases and coolants. Thank you for being honest and brutally upfront also,

again, I apologize to you for being a idiot and newbie


adam vasbinder
 
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